EliteCM.net

This process can be done to replace your OEM springs with any after market performance springs.  All instructions are for the passenger's side of the vehicle.  The same procedure applies to the driver's side.

WARNING:  Do not attempt this type of installation if you are unfamiliar with your vehicles suspension.  This install requires at least an intermediate level of automotive knowledge.  I know for some of you grey-beards out there, this type of work is a no brainer, but for novices and part-time hobbyists, I would suggest having your local dealer do the work.

Approx. Project Time: 2 to 4 Hours (depending on your automotive aptitude)

Things You'll Need:

• Drive-on Floor Lift or Hydrolic Lift (can be done with a jack and jack stands, but will significantly increase project time and risk of injury.)
• 10 mm Combination wrench
• 12 mm Combination wrench
• 14 mm Socket, Universal Socket, and Combination wrench
• 17 mm Socket and Combination wrenches
• Torque Wrench
• Spring/Coil Compressors
• A print out of pages 2-5 of these instructions (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16319) for use of the diagrams only.  The instructions provided in my thread are more in-depth but you may want to reference the diagrams if something is unclear in my photos.
  
• Someone to help you
• OPTIONAL: An air-ratchet and impact gun to make spring compression/assembly 100x easier
• OPTIONAL: Floor jack, magnet pen

1. Raise the car on the lift and remove all 4 wheels
2. Use the 10mm socket wrench to remove the wheel sensor harness bracket bolt:

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/1.jpg)

3. As a general rule of thumb, whenever I remove a bolt to loosen or remove a part, I will put the bolt back in its hole so I don't lose it.
4. Move the wheel sensor harness away from its bracket.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/2.jpg)


5. Use the 14mm socket wrench to remove the damper pinch bolt. This bolt is directly below and behind the wheel sensor harness and may be marked with red ink.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/3.jpg)

6. Use the 17mm socket wrench and combination wrench to remove the damper fork mounting bolt from the lower arm. You will need to hold the nut while loosening the bolt.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/4.jpg)

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/5.jpg)

Remove the damper assembly from the damper fork.


Step 1: Removing the Front Damper (Con't)

At this point, the lower part of the damper assembly should be removed from the damper fork, and the damper fork should be removed from the lower arm.

Pop the hood of your car:

1. Using the 12mm and the 14mm socket wrenches, remove the six (6) damper mounting nuts from the top of the damper. Do not drop the damper. (Someone should be in the wheel-well holding the damper while you complete this step.)

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/6.jpg)

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/7.jpg)

The damper assembly is now completely unbolted from the body of the vehicle and is ready for removal. This step can be frustrating and requires a little muscle and some patience to accomplish without damaging your vehicle.


2. First, push down on the suspension arm to get the lower half of the damper assembly to clear the upper part of the arm.
3. Then you will have to raise the suspension arm to get the top half of the damper assembly to clear.
4. This may sound confusing, but you will understand what I mean once your working on it.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/8.jpg)

Step 2: Removing OEM Springs and Installing Eibach Springs

Warning: DO NOT ATTEMPT this step without Coil/Spring Compressors. Failing to heed this warning could result in serious injury or death.

Use the Spring Compressors to compress the OEM spring about 2.5 to 3 inches. (Enough to reduce the tension pushing on the top of the assembly so that it doesn't shoot off when you remove the tension nut.) Compression (and decompression) should be done at equal amounts on both sides. As such, this step may require two people.
Make sure to mark the damper assembly cap (at the top) at the point where it aligns with the end of the spring (at the bottom) where the spring sits flush against the notch in its housing. See my poor picture below. Failure to do so will cause major problems later.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/9.jpg)

3. With the spring safely compressed, use the air ratchet and 14mm socket to remove the tension nut.
4. Remove the OEM spring from the damper assembly.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/10.jpg)

5. Carefully loosen the Spring Compressors to release the OEM spring from the clamps.

6. Use the Spring Compressors to compress the front Eibach spring and install on damper assembly.
Remember to align the mark on the damper assembly cap with the end of the Eibach spring where it sits flush against the notch in its housing.

7. Use the air ratchet and 14mm socket to tighten tension nut until you meet with full resistance.


Step 3: Installing the Front Damper Assembly

1. The same sort of lift-lower process that was used to remove the damper assembly is required to install it. This time, I used the floor jack to make the raising and lowering of the lower arm a bit easier and more precise.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/11.jpg)

2. With the damper assembly behind the upper arm and correctly aligned, first reattach the damper mounting nuts to the top of the damper in the engine compartment.
3. Reattach the damper fork over the driveshaft and onto the lower arm and torque to 64Nm (47lb-ft.).
Reattach the damper pinch bolt and torque to 49 Nm (36lb-ft.).
4. Reattach the wheel speed sensor harness bracket and torque to 9.8Nm (7.2lb-ft.).


If you need to see illustrations, refer to the uninstall directions or the OEM instructions hyperlinked above. Simply put, you are reverse-order installing everything you originally removed.

Repeat this process on the driver's side of the vehicle to complete the front-end installation of your after market springs.


Step 4: Removing the Rear Damper

This portion of the installation requires work from inside the vehicle and a lot of patience. It was in these steps that I found one of the Accords few real design flaws.

1. Fold down the rear seat-back and remove the damper mounting nuts access lid.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/12-5.jpg)


2. Using the 14mm socket wrench and an extension, remove the damper mounting nuts from the top of the damper. Use the magnet pen or similar device to retrieve the nuts.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/13.jpg)

Step 4: Removing the Rear Damper (Con't)

I suggest referring to the OEM instructions in the next few steps if the photographs I took are not sufficient illustrations.

1. Remove the self locking nut on the rear assembly while holding the joint-bolt with a wrench, then disconnect the stabilizer link from the knuckle and remove the brake hose bracket.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/14.jpg)

2. Remove the damper mounting bolt.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/15.jpg)

3. Remove the damper assembly by lowering the rear suspension. (This step requires one person pushing down quite forcefully on the rear arm while another attempts to remove the damper assembly from the car.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/16.jpg)

Once you have the rear damper assembly removed from the vehicle:


4. Repeat steps 2.1 through 2.8 to remove rear OEM springs and replace with rear Eibach springs. (Same as front damper assemblies).


Step 5: Installing the Rear Damper

1. Lower the rear suspension using significant downward pressure, using similar up-and-down movements as before, and position the damper in the wheel-well with the welded nut on the bottom of the damper facing the front of the vehicle.
2. With the damper assembly correctly aligned, reattach the damper mounting nuts to the top of the damper assembly (in the back seat. This took forever! Suggest using the universal 14mm socket and an inspection mirror in conjunction with the magnet pen. Good luck here; major design flaw by Honda).
3. Reattach the damper mounting bolt on the bottom of the damper.
4. Connect the stabilizer link to the brake hose bracket to the knuckle, and reattach the self-locking nut.
5. Place a floor jack under the connecting point of the knuckle and the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the vehicle weight.
6. Torque the damper mounting bolt to 64 Nm (47 lb-ft.).
7. Torque the stabilizer link to 44 Nm (33 lb-ft.).
8. Torque the damper mounting nuts to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft.).
9. Reattach the lid and the rear seatback.


Step 6: Finalizing the Installation

1. Reattach all the wheels and torque the wheel nuts to 108Nm (80 lb-ft.).
2. Lower the car from the lift and drive it about 10 yds. This will allow the wheels to self-adjust their camber slightly. (Since your suspension was fully suspended during install, the tires will naturally sag a little when the car is first taken off the lift. Driving 10 yards produces several tire revolutions, allowing the tires to straighten back out.
3. Check the wheel alignment (toe) and adjust as necessary. For about 99% of us, this means take it to the dealer and have them do an alignment.

There you have it! Like I said, this is not the easiest of installs but the process itself is fairly cut and dry. I would be happy to answer any questions via PM.

Here is my final result:

OEM Front Wheel-Well Ground Clearance: 6.375 in.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/17.jpg)


Eibach Front Wheel-Well Ground Clearance: 5.375 in.

(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj262/MRROLO150/18.jpg)

I will let everyone know the final drop in a couple weeks when the springs are fully settled. Expecting another 0.1 in.

Information was transfered from Gen7Accord.com.

I have done this project about 7 times now on the Hawk lol

Nice write-up, Thien.

-JT

Yeah, I have done this twice now on my coupe. Its actually pretty simple once you get familiar with the shock assembly and learning to line up the shocks, top hats and bolts. Great write-up though!

Make sure the spring compressor you get has somewhat small clamps that clip onto the spring. The one we rented from autozone had huge clamps that just got in the way the whole time and make the whole install a PITA. Just fyi.

on the rear springs, which end goes up does the tightly wound end go on the bottom or top?

I know its a bit of a newb ? but matt and i are trying to figure out whose are right and whose are not

Tightly wound goes up.

Any local guys willing to do this for beer and pizza?

Thanks we put mine in upside down then we are going to correct it this weekend... and Fenix where you located?

I'm trying to install my supercup kit but I'm having trouble getting the lower damper fork bolt out.  The nut came loose no problem but the bolt is stuck in the bushing and no amout of hammering, pressing, or twisting seems to be able to loosen it.  Any ideas?

Edit.   haven't tried my impact wrench yet, but If all the above didn't work, i doubt that will.

Pretty sure I'll have to cut it out (probably with a sawsall with a carbide blade, which means i'll have to replace the bushings.  Is this a DIY type job, or is a special press needed to put the bushings in?

Thanks

That bolt on Gen's coupe was also seized in the bushing.  I took a 20" breaker bar and cranked on it until it came loose.  That did the trick.

Thien I think you need to update the pictures, they're not there anymore.

+1

Hmmm...I might take a few pics just for the hell of it.  It's not too difficult as long as you have a jack and a couple of jack stands, a 20" breaker bar and some patience!

+1

And in my case some new bushings and bolts since the bolts broke when trying to get them loose with a 4 foot breaker bar.

Any updates on the pics?

I found a DIY with pictures. The only problem is that it for the 08. Will this DIY (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19949) be the same, as in the pictures?

Nope. 08 Accord has a different suspension setup.

Well dang. Ill keep looking.

I just realized that DIY I found with pictures is the exact same DIY that is posted here. The back isn't right though.

http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord/hfpsusp.pdf (http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord/hfpsusp.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) <-- helpful for those who already have assembled bodies

I am thinking of taking my car to the guys who did my sway bars, as my shocks/springs are already assembled.. what should I bring along with as "just in case" items?

Don't forget to bring your purse.

Wow, that is very helpful! I am sure to take that advice to heart.

If anything, the lower mounting hardware because of where you're at. Salt and shit is no bueno.

Just the nuts and bolts will be good?

I am going to do that + the bolts for camber/toe arms

Probably a good idea.