EliteCM.net

Here's a list of parts (OEM and Aftermarket) that are available for our cars.  There has been a lot of confusion about what sway bars are available over on g7a, so I wanted to have one thread for the most common suspension upgrades and a list of parts.  Since some OEM and aftermarket TL and TSX parts will fit our cars, I'm also including what car they are intended for in parentheses if it's not intended for an Accord.

As you may notice, the list is fairly incomplete because I just started it while passing time at work.  If you want to add something to the list just post it and I'll add it to my list.  This will require the support of all members.  I will also try to include prices and links to sites for everything if possible.

Springs
H&R Race
H&R Sport
H&R OE
Tein H-tech
Tein S-tech
Eibach Sportline
Eibach Pro-kit
Tanabe NF210
Tanabe DF210
Dropzone DZ
Sprint
Espelir Active
Skunk 2
Progress
B&G Suspension S2
KYB
Vogtland
Ingalls
Neuspeed Sport
Neuspeed Race

Struts
Koni
Tokico HP
Tokico HTS
KYB GR-2
KYB AGX

Coilovers
Tein Basics
Tein SS
Tein SS-P
Tein Flex (from the TSX)
Tein Mono Flex (from the TSX)
Tein Comfort Sport (from the TSX)
H&R
Tanabe Pro S-0C
Function & Form Type 1
Function & Form Type 2
Megan
Nex GT
Ksport
D2 RS
Dropzone
BC Racing Type BR
JIC Magic FLT-TAR

Camber Kits
Ingalls
SPC
Eibach
CT Engineering (Comptech)
Hardrace
Wicked Tuning

Strut Tower Bars
OEM V6 6MT
Neuspeed
DC Sports
Greddy
TC Sportline

Front Sway Bars
OEM Acura TL-S 27.2 mm
Neuspeed 27 mm
H&R 28 mm

Rear Sway Bars
OEM Acura TL 17 mm
OEM Acura TL-S 20 mm
Neuspeed 19 mm
H&R 20 mm
CT Engineering (Comptech) 22 mm
Progress

Chassis Braces
Cusco TSX Type I
Cusco TSX Type II (discontinued)

Engine Torque Dampers
Ingalls Stiffy

you should list the stuff that fits too.

pretty much anything made for the TSX and TL's will fit. i know at least the 04+ TL rear sways work. H&R makes one, i'm sure someone else does too. TSX models of the Tein CS and Flex also fit.

Yeah, I'm still working on it right now.  I just wanted to put up a starter list for sways and what not.  It's going to grow over time and anyone that wants to contribute with products, specs, prices, and links is more than welcome to post in here to get it put on the list.  I know there's more, I just don't have time to research and document everything all at once.

Hey Tim, i know there a LOT of coilover choices. but i wanted to include skunk2's coilover. i think its originally forthe tsx. but i found it on weaksauceparts.com for the accord and for rather cheap.
http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/pro ... 532&page=1 (http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/product.php?productid=18341&cat=2532&page=1)

That is really cheap can anyone confirm that these are not the TSX springs, and just a mistake listed on this site?

Thanks Tim, this is going to prove to be very usefull. Eventually some links will help. Specially the rear TL-s sway bar. Thx again Tim!

what's the difference between the Cuscu TSX type I and type II chassis braces?  is one more stiff than the other?

That rear bar is probably one of the most noticable mods. Body roll= 0 after that install. I've got just about every suspension mod besides the cuscoe braces but like I said that rear bar is the most noticable.  The front isnt that noticable but it's good to have.

TSX coilovers are interchangable i believe. anyways. i went to skunk2's site. and pulled up the pro-s coilovers. and its listed for the TSX but not accord. but the same goes for Tein Flex's. adn the pro-s's are msrp'd or whatever at like 784.00. weaksauce has a pretty good deal on em. http://www.skunk2.com/mm5/merchant.mvc? ... 41-05-5880 (http://www.skunk2.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=541-05-5880)

Right but, if the product is not designed for a specific vehicle often the manifacture will not honor the warranty.

Don't forget the Cusco type 1 and type 2 underbody braces.  http://www.racinglab.com/culoarmbar.html

We also have those control arm braces, although I do not have a link.

hey tim, i know you're uber busy. but will this suspension thread be updated anytime soon lol? not to be a dick or anything

Pretty busy right now.  I'll see what I can do to update the list a little better.  I may have to hock Dave's list from the old g7a.

I have CG with kyb AGX really good ride.

I just realized this list was updated.....gotta start the search now

Thien did a pretty good job of updating it last night.

good stuff tim, this is very helpful for anyone, considering suspension upgrade

those are the chassis braces! i was trying to figure out who made em for the TSX. nice!

NRG innovations also makes TQ damperers for our rides, thats what me and abailey4 are running on.

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd. ... oduct=4316 (http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4316)

I know its expensive, but its a TSX front camber kit from Skunk2, will it work?
It would probably be more logical to buy an ingalls or something made for our car, but just to see  if it would i had to ask.

nice find... it should work.... i know for sure the ball joint for the tsx and our car is the same.

Those look nice, but they are pretty expensive.  You're better off getting a new set of OEM upper control arms and an Ingalls front camber kit.

Won't the Skunk 2's provide more adjustability for the weekend/road racer, also I'm guessing caster and toe can be adjusted by these, though correct me if I'm wrong though.  These may be my next component so I can make day off adjustments as I plan to road race the accord this summer.

Good luck finding the Type II, they are sold out nationwide right now, the Type I's are scarce as well, though I did manage to procure one.

Caster and toe will probably not be adjustable from the coilovers themselves.  You would use your factory adjustments for that.  Thien can clarify this though.

Coilovers cannot adjust caster or toe. Coilovers can only adjust camber, but camber does affect toe. Now, the Skunk2 do not have camber plates to adjust camber on them. So, camber cannot be adjust through the coilovers. Now, we do have SLA front struts. SLA meaning that our struts are connected to the lower control arm instead of being connected to the knuckle. That means coilovers will more and likely won't adjust camber no matter if it comes with a camber plate or not.

I assume best bang for buck coilovers are Tein Basics?

What I really want is a setup that is adjustable (height + camber, and maybe the damping also) for a decent price (Basics seem to be around 1000-1200 CDN)

If you want height and damper adjustment, then you should consider the Tein SS or SS-P instead of the Basics.  No matter what suspension you buy, you must buy a camber kit.  No aftermarket coil over can adjust camber, only a camber kit can do that.

Ah righteous. I had thought some kits came with a camber kit also.

Shouldn't the neuspeed supercup kit be up on here?

It seems like a good deal, has height adjustability (albeit not as much as a coilver)

The Neuspeed Supecup Kit is is a variation of 2 parts. It is a Koni Strut combined with Neuspeed Race Springs. Thus why the Supercup Kit is not listed as one, because of its 2 part design.

Might add neuspeed springs to the list at least then  

The springs are now on the list.  If you read the OP, you would have realized that the list is incomplete and was started a while ago and hasn't been updated in quite some time.  Thanks for contributing to the list.

Has anyone used the Eibach rear camber kit? I am thinking about getting it opposed to the ingalls.

Bill, the reason why I tell everyone to get the Ingalls is because it is a 2 arm setup. It replaces the lower control arm and toe adjustment arm. The Eibach and other like the Eibach only replaces the upper control arm. The upper control arm are usually the hardest to install, and they are the hardest to adjust because of the lack of space. Many members on here will agree that the Ingalls rear camber kit is probably the best rear camber kit on the narket.

Ingalls it is then. Thanks again

It is actually cheaper, if this (http://ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=35237url) is it. Even considering you have to buy two.

Quick question. Which front strut bar would you guys recommend getting? It seems to me that the OEM v6 one would be the cheapest, but I've seen a lot of profiles with the DC Sports one. I'm thinking about getting one of these to reduce the snap oversteer that I currently have with my TL-S RSB. Or do you guys think that I would be better off getting the front TL anti-sway bar?

A lot of people go with the TL-S Front sway bar, along with a neuspeed Strut tower bar, and the v6 6spd stb as well.  that's what I plan on doing.  however, i'll tell you that with just the neuspeed stb, and the TL-S RSB on my car, it feels a lot stronger and handles really well.

you also have to remember that with stock struts/springs, you're still going to have a lot of body roll due to the softness of the stock setup.  I seem to remember you saying that you have to convince your parents for a lot of mods, so if you want to lower it (you should) tell them it's for safety reasons, because it improves your handling! lol

Get the Neuspeed and V6 6-speed strut bar. Both of them are a solid bar.

I guess I should probably get some lowering springs more than anything. I'll save up for those before I start adding anti-sway bars, etc. Besides, the only time I'm probably going to be getting snap oversteer is when I'm going like 60 and decide to make a sharp right turn, haha.

1 of my friends ordered this and it works real good.. Poblem is IDK which size to get.. Please help

http://www.dynamicturbo.com/products/su ... r_name=2.4 (http://www.dynamicturbo.com/products/suspension/suspension-accessories/tein-silencer-rubber.html?car_make_key=197&car_model_name=Accord+Sedan&car_year=2003&car_motor_name=2.4)

hey does anyone have the OEM V6 6MT part number?
i've searched bkhonda and majestic honda for way too long

thinking about getting that...then getting the DC sports strut tower bar...
2 bars FTW !

OEM V6 6MT BAR part #24 (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM). Call them because they might not have it instock, it's part#24 but down the list it ends at part #23 so it may be unavailable dude. Good luck....

weird...

either way im gonna call about it, thanks for the find...after clicking on 20 different pictures i just couldnt seem to find it .... GRR !
thanks bro, i wanna do this, maybe paint it up nice

I think this is the part # click me (http://hondapartsunlimited.com/schonda/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=2DR+EX+V6&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List+All&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=%7C014). It wasn't listed in that other link cuz I don't think it's available for V6 AT. I believe, it comes standard in the V6 MT.

What do you guys think is better worth it vs. the cost - the front anti-sway bar, or the front tower bar / whatever it's called thingy?

I think I'm going to call my local Honda dealer and see if they can have one ordered, instead of me having to pay for shipping out the ass if I ordered one online.

honda dealership will charge you well more than what the cost of shipping will be.... unless its something simple i never go to dealership
prices around here are REDICULOUSLY high compared to BKhonda or majestichonda.com

im debating the same question Jeff....

i think i want to do the OEM V6 6MT BAR as well as the DC Sports strut tower bar....
if you do them both it looks pretty sick (aka...Billys car - Crazy Creashunz) and i heard this stiffens up the body roll big time.

the OEM V6 6MT BAR replaces those corner black angled braces near the top of your strut tower bolts..... essentially this adds a bar across the engine bay connecting the 2 sides adding alot more stability
its a quality pickup under $100.... you might wanna start there first

strut tower bars you can find cheap (ebay - $40 or less) or you can go expensive (greddy, dc sports, neuspeed) for like $135ish
functionability might be close to the same.... but it wont look as nice or have a name on it

also to install the front sway bar you have to drop the subframe... i heard this can be a pain in the ass....also this adds to the understeer that your rear sway took away.... cancelling some of that effect but also helping body roll at the same time

lemme know what you do... maybe we can get a buy one get one half off special !  :)

Alright. I've heard about how the TL-S FSB adds a noteable understeer, but I've also heard from people that it reduces body roll better than the tower bars. I guess if I added the two tower bars together it would do just as good.

As far as what to get, I may go the eBay route (as much as I'd hate to). I'm not really too worried about looks. I'll probably just paint it black and say to hell with it. :twisted:

haha i know.... with enough cash + time you'll catch up and we'll have the same ride

they dont stack up...

the V6 bar connects to where the stock angle bars connect....
the strut tower bar connects to i believe 2 of the bolts that are on top of your strut tower (circle thing with 3 bolts around it)
so they are pretty close to one another...however they arent on top of each other... i think it looks pretty sweet
2 bars FTW !

Oh, ok. I'll have to open the hood to my car and see this for myself whenever it'll stop raining. I'm thinking if I can convince my parents enough, I may be able to get the v6 6spd bar from majestic honda for about $100 shipped. We could call them and maybe see if they'll give us a group buy discount... I'm not sure. The more the discount, the better, lol. My mom is pretty pissed off at me for doing all the mods I have now, so it'll be a stretch. I haven't even gotten my pulleys installed yet, so asking them for another thing will be hard, lol. Plus, with college around the corner, that makes it just that much harder to get any mods for my car. :(

Let me know if you figure out any plans with the group buy deal or anything.

Here's a better link than what Billy posted a while back for the 6MT STB. Click me! (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2006&catcgry3=4DR+EX+V6&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM)

does anyone know the spring rate for GC? I just looked at mine and its 474 front and 300 rear? Is is a little on the softside?

Megan Racing makes a camber kit for the CM/TSX... Any opinions?

Megan Racing has made a name for themselves as of late. Since they offer a lot of parts at a much more reasonable price than others a lot of people have used their products and been happy with them. I don't have firsthand experience though.

Does anyone know if the TL (3G) top hats work with our Accords?

I am looking to buy some Koni SP3's with some springs from a TL

I'll have to swap the springs out for i4 springs, but wondering if I need to swap the top hats too.

No, they won't. Different design.

Good to know, Thanks Thien.
I realized I wouldn't get the lifetime warranty on the Koni also, so the deal really is not much a of a deal anymore.

Please spell my name right next time.

Holy crap! I even read your name from the quote to make sure I had it write... I failed

Does the Greddy STB work together with OEM STB? I know the Neuspeed one does!

The Greddy mounts on top of the OEM STB. The Neuspeed mounts on the two outer strut mount bolts.

Pardon my ignorance, but does that mean yes?

Yes.  He was just explaining how it is done.

Thanks guys! Which STB is actually better (not including the OEM)? DC looks the nicest, but I read most people prefer the Neuspeed

Neuspeed is the best STB.  It's a solid piece.  All the others are multiple pieces, which aren't as strong as the Neuspeed.

How are Tein's for reliability or Koni Yellows?

My car is a DD, I don't auto-x or track and drive like an old man

Between my brothers and myself (on the 7G Accord, 3G TL and 1G TSX) we've been through Teins, Function & Form Type I and II, Ksports and Koni's and to be honest, the Teins and Koni's were probably the most decent set ups. The Ksports are pretty damn stiff but they do let you go low, very low. I'd say the same about the F&F's, but for practical daily driving, take Tein's or Koni's. And if you get the SS, you have dampening control just like the Koni Yellows. Drive like an old man or street racer, take your pick!

Yea I know they are good choices, I just wondered whether either has an inherent reliability advantage over the other. I had read some stories of koni's going bad often, but I've also seen many stories of people having to rebuild their Teins... thats where the question arises from.

To be honest with you, those two are probably two of the more reliable brands to work with. My mechanic tracks his car and he's got neuspeed springs with koni yellows and he would never, ever turn to coilovers. He loves the spring/shock combo, less noise, no squeaking etc.



But what you're reading are 1 in 1000000 incidents that happen and trust me, people do talk a lot of crap when they write their reviews and experiences on-line. Ask someone you know personally, and ask them verbally lol, you'll get a better answer.

I've loved my Tein's since I've had them.  I got them from Jeremy a few years ago, and put about 100k on them since I've owned them.  The adjustment nuts seized on mine because I live in an area that gets snow, and they use a mix of 90% sand and 10% salt for the snow.

Here's a little something we can add to the master list:
http://driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47131 (http://driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47131" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

is it just me, or does that seem retarded?

Stiffening is stiffening. It all depends on what you want to do with your car.

It's something that can make a difference.  You'd be surprised how much of a difference chassis upgrades can make.

Tim is absolutely right. A lot of guys fill the voids in the chassis' unibody with expanding foam (not the stuff you get at Home Depot) to stiffen it up as well as stitch weld the seams. Granted, these are track only vehicles but the difference between winning and losing is in how you setup your vehicle as well as you want it to behave.

Two words.  Roll cage!!

Sure. For a track car coupled with all the other shit mentioned. Imagine how flat the car would be in a turn at speed.

hello, i did not know where to post this, so i thought here would be a good spot. I was just wondering what a reasonable price was for installing a set of coil overs, new rear cambers, and aligment. I called a couple of shops and they said close to $500

That's not too bad a price. It'd be a lot less if you install the shit and have them do an alignment for a quarter of that price.

For me the price for installing springs was $450 which included all of the above. That was at Midas. I just did it myself and had them align it. It took me a while since I had no clue what I was doing. Now, I could do it in a few hours.

I charge $100 with an alignment.  ;)

If I'm spending nearly a thousand on parts I don't want to be spending another 500 on labor. Is it possible to do it myself? Will I need any special tools? And I live in jersey Thien, so if ur further than a state away I don't think it would be worth it

only special tools you're going to need is a spring compressor.  Otherwise wrenchs and sockets are all you'd really need..

A torque wrench is nice to have if you like getting things just right. I found that ratcheting hex sockets were a nice thing to have but I don't think you'll need it since you won't be disassembling the strut assembly.

Do you mean ratcheting wrenches Bill

actually depending on what type of coilovers he bought.. he will need to disassemble his struts, hence the need for a spring compressor.  I remember with my Tein SS's I had to re-use some of the components from my stock strut assemblies to install the new coilovers.

No, I have a set of sockets that have hex ends on them. I have these:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_200318-1074-22386_0__?productId=1057471&Ntt=hex+socket&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dhex%2Bsocket (http://www.lowes.com/pd_200318-1074-22386_0__?productId=1057471&Ntt=hex+socket&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dhex%2Bsocket)

do i absolutely need a spring compressor, and where can i get one if i do.

If you have to disassemble your strut assembly, yes to be safe. If you have an impact wrench you can hold the strut down with your foot in the grass and remove the top nut that way. That's not recommended though, because it is dangerous. I did one strut that way, I didn't have any problems but it isn't the best way. I bought a spring compressor at Sears for about $60. You can get some cheap ones from Harbor Freight for under $20.

There was an auto parts place where I used to live that you could rent a spring compressor from for free.. maybe there's a place near you that will do the same, but yes, it is necessary. 

Get a spring compressor if you don't your asking for trouble.

Yeah, it's very dangerous to not use one.  You can rent one from Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts for next to nothing.

Or you could find one of your buddies that has one and borrow it. That's what I did.

Even using a spring compressor is dangerous

If you don't know how to use it.  It's a lot less dangerous than not using one.

True, after using one 6 times I got used to it, still uneasy feeling, rather a shop do it in 15 minutes

I have a question. When installing coilovers, i know i need a camber kit, but do i also have to get new shocks as well? And does anyone have the megan ez coilovers OR the Tein basics?????? if so is it a good ride

I had the Tein Basics and I was very happy with them for the million miles that I put on them.  I just took them out last weekend to upgrade.

best bang for the buck are Teins and Neuspeed supercup kit, do a search on the site...tons of info

This.

if you need a rear camber kit, I have an ingalls rear camber kit that I never installed.. PM me if your'e interested.

Where can i get a neuspeed super cup kit for 600 shipped? ive read some people on this site and other sites got them for 600. But i have looked around on websites and they are all 700...Did the price change or something?

It's a very good possibility. Prices don't ever stay set in stone.

They went up... They were cheap a demand was created, and then the price moved it's a common occurance in business. However if you consider the cost of the shocks alone you are still basically getting the springs for nothing.

Another alternative to the Ingalls kit... Looks very similar, and Moog is a pretty well known suspension parts distributor.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Lateral-Link-Moog_20519851-P_2182_R|GRP60005_1182124564____ (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Lateral-Link-Moog_20519851-P_2182_R|GRP60005_1182124564____)

Is it really $200 for each side though?  I dunno if it's worth it if you're blowing $400 on a Moog camber kit over the Ingalls.

Just another alternative. Ingalls seems to be tougher to get now days.

Really?  I'm surprised that it's hard to get any of their products.  Can you order direct from Ingalls?

I'm not in the market I've just read that there have been some back order issues. I might accidentally order a set of those Moog ones at my part time job and wait for them to make down my "mistake"

hi guys,  for the cusco tsx type 2, i found i can still get one, it the 04 to 08 correct? and the same for the rear brace? also any isssue with them being low uder the car and me dragging them on crap even though im not going super low?

If you can still find the Cusco Type 2 under brace, it would be from the 04-08 TSX. The bar itself does not really sit that much lower then the car, but fore-warned, there will be scratches no matter how you drive.

Here is a picture for an example.

(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a279/7thGenVillain/11122010128.jpg)

well I figured there would be scrates, just trying to avoid major impacts. how much of a difference did it make?

During normal driving, there isn't a real difference. Under really hard cornering, you can feel a slight chassis stiffness towards it, but you really have to be pushing the car hard. Like going into a corner around 50+ mph to even notice a bit.

Advance Auto is always a rape on prices.  They are $96.79 on rockauto

Just search for part number K90706

I disagree. I work in the industry and it really depends on the parts. Certain retailers are cheaper for certain parts categories. Rockauto operates with less overhead than a retail location so they should always be cheaper. But, other companies will price match and you can often get the parts same day rather than waiting for shipping. The whole parts market is a big game, and the markup is insane across the board.

^^^ agreed my buddy is commercial manager at Pepboys, and we use an commercial account for a fake garage to pick stuff up at the price pepboys pays for it. Saves huge money my buddy picked up a 230 GM fuel pump for 120 because of this

Ok there s a lot of roads in my area that have 50+ mph corners so it might be feasible

i just bought a cusco type-2 from heeltoe. unfortunately the J's Racing RCA kit is on backorder, so......

How was heeltoes service I was wondering if anyone had used them

See my review of them in the retailers sub forum.

Read it! they also have igalls rear really cheap too. Has anybody with the Skunk2 Front camber kit had issues with it staying in alignment? Not sure how I feel about thoes four bolts keeping the alignment.

I haven't heard of any issues of the camber adjustments suddenly coming loose. I figure it'd be like any other fastener where you torque it down and it won't break loose unless you wanted it to.

i use the ingalls front camber ball joint which has only 1 bolt holding it down to the arm, never had any problems with it except that it allows only -1.5deg of camber maximum...

I had it on my car for awhile. I made sure to anti seize the bolts. It held up fine for me, but for some odd reason, my buddy who bought them from me to put on his tsx had it come loose and shift inwards.

Huh ok so maybe it's a set it and try to avoid adjusting kinda deal. And did you use anti seize of lock tight ?

I bolded the answer to your question.

I used anti seize. I live in Colorado, and the weather around here can cause seize bolts. The bolts that aftermarket companies use are a standard base bolt. They will seize up and rust up. I've broken my fair share of macpherson strut camber adjustment bolts due to the weather. If you do get the Skunk2 camber kit, I highly suggest anti seizing the bolts. I suggest to torque them down to 10 ft lbs. The bolts themselves aren't a heavy duty bolt. If you overtighten them, they will break.

I've always had great customer service from Markus at Heel Toe.  On the other hand, I am not a fan of Skunk2 products.  I would not personally use their front camber kit (or any of their products) for a number of reasons.  I have the Ingalls front camber kit and it has served me well.  One note of caution is that you don't want to go too low with the Ingalls front camber kit.  If you do, and hit a big bump, you will smash the top of the camber kit in your shock towers and dent them.  There is also a front camber kit made by Hard Race that mimics the Spoon design.  If you're a baller, you can pick up the Spoon front camber kit.

Tim you used the word baller, I had to go look. 600 is pretty steep.

I agree with Tim. I really didn't like the Skunk2 front camber kit. Yes, it is a lower profile if you plan to slam your car, but I have bottemed it out and put some dents on it. The bolts that Skunk2 uses are thin and small. It doesn't seem like its durable enough to withstand a 3000 lbs plus car. Hard Race is another option, but Hard Race and Megan are the same company. I've never been a fan of Megan Racing products. They all seize up and rust up.

Being a baller isn't cheap.  You gotta pony up for the good parts.  I've considered picking up the Spoon ones.  I have a set of Hard Race upper control arms sitting in my garage right now.  Not sure if I'm going to put them on though.

Well I have to get the Ingalls rear and a tower bar or two then ill look at the spoons

Just to let you know on the Spoons, you'll have to wait 3-6 months for them to come in. I waited 3 months just for my Endless to come in from Japan.

That doesn't surprise me, how bad exactly do I need the front? I don plan on going super low

Unless you go super slammed, you won't need a camber kit. I was about 0 finger gap front and 1 finger gap rear. My camber spec up front is right at spec which is -0.8. You can safely run -1.0 degree of camber without causing any tire wear. Anything more, you will need a front camber kit.

Ok ya I'm not going quite that low. So the caster on the car isn't positive enough to cause much significant change in camber with the height adjustment.

If you don't plan on dropping more than 2.5" you should be good.  Even if you do go lower, just get your toe aligned properly and you shouldn't have any major tire-wearing issues.

This just got posted on fb in one of the Accord groups: http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/ingalls-adjustable-upper-control-arm-04-08-tsx-03-07-accord.html (http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/ingalls-adjustable-upper-control-arm-04-08-tsx-03-07-accord.html)
Does anyone have any info on these?

No! Lol. Looks similar to the skunk2 design which im not a fan of. Slotted holes for suspension adjustments means it may work loose over time. Also, with the heads of the screws on top would be be prone to rust easier then even the skunk2 design.

You may want to call Ingalls or Hybrid Racing about those.  It seems that there is not much information about those yet.

I got a list somewhere for sway from TL-S sway bars as below:

51300-SEP-A21 - SPRING, FR. STABILIZER - 1x
51306-SEP-A01 - BUSH, FR. STABILIZER HOLDER - 2x
51308-SDA-A00 - BRACKET, FR. STABILIZER - 2x
52300-SEP-A11 - SPRING, RR. STABILIZER - 1x
52308-S3M-A00 - HOLDER - 2x
52306-SEP-A11 - BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER - 2x

The local dealer give a list which he can find is:

 51300-SEP-A31
 51306-SEP-A01
 51308-SDA-A00
 52300-SEP-A21
 52308-S3M-A00
 52306-SEP-A21

I'm not sure if this is ok or not, I heard somewhere 51300-SEP-A21 is for 04-06 TL-S and 51300-SEP-A31 is for 07 and 08, I'm not sure the other parts are like the same or not.

Cheers!

Has anyone tried the new Tanabe Pro CR Coilover Kit?

For a while now, I've been contemplating buying the Tein Comfort Sport coilovers since I'm looking for a more comfortable ride, but the $1.6k price is holding me back.  This new Tanabe kit is half that price.  Anyone have these coils?

(http://www.tanabe-usa.com/images/extra_coilovers/SustecProCR-info1.jpg)

Evasive Motorsports - $841.50 (http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=TANABE-TSR075&Category_Code=TANABE-PROCR)

What's the spring rate on those guys? I have the comfort sports and I've really enjoyed their ride quality. Not stiff or bouncy at all. Compare the spring rate of the Comfort Sports to the Tanabes.

Tanabe - Spring Rates (F/R): 8.0 / 4.0

Tein CS - Spring Rates (F/R): 7.0 / 4.0

Pretty close.  How do you like the CS?  Have you had other suspension setups to compare them to?

After 8 years, I'm getting tired of a bone-jarringly stiff ride.  I don't want to give up that lowered look though.

I've had the Tein Basics before the Comfort Sports. I like the ride comfort of the Comfort Sports. They are comfortable, but not stiff of bouncy.