EliteCM.net

i feel like this has been talked about here but i couldn't find a thread on it. anyway....

when driving my car today i noticed that when i give it some gas in gear, then take it out of gear to shift, that my RPM's stick. it's really weird because this hasn't happened before with the car.

when i start the car it sticks at somewhere between 1k to 1500. when shifting out of gear it sticks anywhere between 2500 to 4k rpm. to get the RPMs to drop i have to either blip the throttle once or twice.

on the car right now is a AEM CAI, TSX IM, ralco pulleys, corsport shifter bushings, Mugen SSK.

i don't know how else to explain it. i'll try and get a video...somehow.

When you first start your car in the mornings and it stays at say 1500, I have personally come to think it's normal [three different accord; all doing same thing]

When you're shifting from say 2nd to 3rd and it stays at ~3000 [or where ever you decide to shift], I think it's normal also to aid in rev-matching to the next gear and to aid in rev-matching for a downshift. Mine does this also, but I don't think it's a problem. Me personally, I like it lol.

well no im talking i pull it out of gear and coast for like half a mile(down hill, out of gear) and it still doesn't drop. or you know when driving around in a lower gear and you don't take it out of gear and the car jerks? mine doesn't jerk because the RPMs don't drop. it's weird lol

Whoa, that weird on a whole different level. The only way I can relate and give you advice is by saying: Check the throttle cables. Mine used to stay at around 1100 sometimes at idle, what you can do is adjust it to where it has a tiny bit of slack and see if that helps.

ill try that before class tomorrow. thanks!

if the car has quiet a bit of mileage on the motor. then the throttle body probably has gunk build up. check your throttle butterfly to see if it is sticky. if so get some carb clean and a towel. clean the area around the butterfly. and hopefully that should help it. the only time the throttle cable can get sticky is if you had it in contact with extreme heat where it melt the plastic sleeve of the cable which happened to mine. but my money is the gunk built up in your throttle body.

ill check out the butterfly valve in the throttle body once it stops raining. but it didn't happen today which was a good thing to see.

It happens to me occasionally as well.  It happens moreso on winter days when I leave the car outside instead of in my garage.  My car never used to do it so I'm assuming it's from deposits built up in the throttle body.  I'll be sending one of my TB's out to maxbore soon for a little extra boost in power, and he cleans them before doing the work.

Can't it also be caused by the idle control valve? I've had a different situation with my car though. I would start the motor and let it idle/warm up and then after like a few minutes the idle would become erratic, jumping up and down between 1100 and 1600 rpm. I fixed that with carb cleaning the IACV.

is there anything else i can use besides carb cleaner?

There is throttle body cleaner, but I believe that they're the same thing.  Also, don't spray it directly on the throttle body, but instead put it on a rag and wipe it down

You can use throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner to clean your TB, either should be fine.  I've read that you can use carb cleaner for the IACV.  One article I read suggested using WD-40 after cleaning it.  My Haynes manual only recommends replacing it, not cleaning it.  That's not exactly the least expensive option, but it may be your only one.  I would take the time to talk to a Honda/Acura tech, they will provide the best info.

i did clean out the area around the valve in the throttle body today. but this evening i got a check engine light and at the same time my idle just got very rough and started jumping from around 800-1300RPM while sitting at an idle. i checked the lines, and i checked everything on the intake manifold and the intake. everything i removed to get to the throttle body valve earlier i double checked and made sure everything was on.

i have not had a chance to get the code checked as every auto shop around here is closed now. does anyone have any ideas? isn't there some idle learn procedure?

Your car isn't DBW? is it?

If it's got a throttle cable. Have you removed the cable and put it back on and maybe you put too much tension on the mechanism where the cable attaches to. I'm not sure what the spring loaded mechanism on the throttle body is called but hope you know what i'm talking about.

The reason I asked is because it happened to me once on my 92 Accord. The car was idling erratically and I found out that was caused by too much tension on the throttle cable so gave it some slack and the erratic idle was gone.

the second idea that i have that might be causing your erratic idle is gunk built up on the throttle body's butterfly or the Idle control valve.

I don't know what your mechanical abilities are but if its limited, I would bring the car to your Honda dealer to get the problem fixed or if you have mechanic, take your car to them.

no i cleaned the throttle body out and got most of the gunk off around the valve. i did loosen the throttle cable up and it helped to settle the idle while at a stop. but

it threw a CEL, no idea what the code was. i took the negative terminal off the battery for a good hour to attempt to reset the car. it got rid of the CEL but it did not get rid of the weird idle. but now it only happens when the car is moving. but it happens when im out of gear, and not touching anything. if i hit the clutch, or brake pedal, it still happens but not so much. so my guess right now is a vacuum leak somewhere.

while i was in my drive way i hit the brake pedal twice and the CEL came back on. so i'm going to get it checked at another Advanced Auto or a Pep Boys...the code that is.

anyone else have any ideas?

Check the code first, then let us know what it is.  It could be a bad IACV also.

yeah i saw that someone on Drive Accord had the same problem as im having. and they replaced the IACV and it fixed the problem. so now i may just go with one of those if i get the same code.

It's worth a try, but check the code first.  It may be completely unrelated to your throttle issue.  The IACV is about $65 from Majestic Honda, so it's not going to break the bank if you need to buy it.

yeah i got the code of P0507. Idle Control System Higher Than Expected.

i'm getting pretty similar symptoms as the guy in this forum thread: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showt ... hp?t=15146 (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15146)

so i'm guessing that i should probably replace the IACV. but i cleared the code and the idle isn't anywhere near as crazy as it has been. now im just going to see if i can find it local.

could there be any chance that i could try and take the IACV off, and clean it out?

You could give it a try.

yeah i may end up doing that. going to try and search up a bit more on this though.

well i got it off, and it wasn't as nasty as i thought it was going to be. but i cleaned it off anyway. did the throttle body coolant bypass at the same time because i figured there was no point to having coolant through there now since it's summer. but its sitting now with the negative battery terminal un-hooked, and im going to try this idle learn procedure once the rain stops. hopefully it works. if it doesn't then ill have to get a new one.

update: started the car back up after cleaning it off. didn't work, actually seemed to make the problem worse. so now im guessing ill need a new one and it will hopefully fix the problem.

If I were you, I'd reconnect your coolant lines.  When you're trying to troubleshoot a problem, you only want to change one variable at a time and then see what happens.  You changed two, so you're not going to get accurate results.

that could be an issue as well. ill hook them back up tomorrow morning and see if that does anything to help the problem. hopefully that didn't shoot it out of proportion lol

I agree with what he said. You should fix the problem first then start changing things around. I forget but I think I might have also gotten that CEL as well. I didn't read anywhere in your post that you cleaned the IACV with carb-cleaner. I would start with cheap/easy fixes first then move up to replacing parts. That's how most independent garages do things first but that is only if you know them well enough and won't rip you off.

i did clean it and it made it worse. so i ordered the part brand new.  

no luck with the new part. it's doing the same exact thing it was doing before hand and now i'm already 80 something into it.

anyone got any ideas? im not about to tow the thing to the dealership, or some other shop.

another update: took it to the dealership, and had a friend hook me up with their whole diagnostic service for a discounted price. found out that its a leaky master cylinder which is causing the brake booster to fail...they wanted a grand to fix it. right. but i got some other place fixing it so hopefully this fixes the problem.