EliteCM.net

Hi all.
I started with my RSB swap earlier, but I've been stopped in my tracks by stripping one of the end links where the allen key goes in.
Is there any way around this, or what will it take to fix the problem?
Thanks.

That happened to me on one of mine. A Vise Grip on the flange where the sway bar sits (I hope that's a good enough description) did the trick for me.

^What he said, you need to grab the "bolt" portion on the oppisite side of the sway bar from the hex key, then get replacement end links from Advance or whoever is around, I prefer eaither the TRW or Moog parts, also since you now need the end links anyway, try removing them at the bracket instead.

^What he said.  Replacing your end links is definitely the best practice when you strip the allen head bolt.

good info. i did the same thing last week on my passenger side. i didnt say anything cuz i figured there was no shortcuts here. now i need another $60 for the OEM links. :( that sucks. the only reason why i did this, was that the actual sway bar from HONDA only cost me $50. the front sway wouldve cost me $100. so now im thinking $110 for the rear. and $90 for the front + another $40 if i need to replace the front links too. now this would cost me +$200 as opposed to $150.

Parts source sells them here for $30 each (RR) I believe they are the TRW ones. are these just as good as OEM (quiet/durable)?

just installed my TL-S rear sway/ thanx for all the help guys. the links were seized up pretty bad. so i just removed the links all together with the accord sway. worked out great. also i didnt bend the exhaust hanger yet. how did you guys do it. any hints?

is it truly stripped, or just clogged with road junk?  i thought i stripped mine, but it was really just the hex corners clogged up with a bunch of grime from the streets.  once i cleaned it out, the job was much easier.  also, if its only slightly stripped try hammering in the allen key for some better torque.

last but not least, be sure that you're loosening up those nuts with some sort of liquid screwdriver first.  you'll have a hell of a time and probably strip several more bolts trying to get them off without lubrication.

ya mine were clogged up too. i solved by using a 4mm hex first to looswn all the dirt. then i used PB blaster to penetrate right threw that shit. i didnt want to strip anything else so i used a rubber mallet to get the allan key right in there...it all worked out great. except when one of the nut got wedged in. for that i used a set of GOOD vise grips and an impact gun.

i just need to bend the bracket. has anyone done this? and how did you bend it? (just pull down on it, pry it off the frame of the car)

I used a deep well socket that was a bit bigger that that hanger along with a 6" extension. Gave me enough leverage to do the job.

I used a metal pipe about 20" long, did the trick.

hmmm thats sound good enough... i dont have any pry bars, or even some sort of pipe. that would do the trick, im gonna try this method tomorrow. thanx z

Pry bars are always good to have.  I'd always recommend picking up various lengths of tube to use.

man i tired to bend that bracket with a ratchet. but i didnt have enough leverage. gonna have to wait till i can use my friends jack to lift my car, for more room to work with

I ended up running these on my 24mm Progress bar.  The ability to preload the tension really adds another dimension for dialing in oversteer or understeer for specific conditions.  The bar is adjustable too.
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