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Hey guys, Im installing the TL type S front sway. I am now stuck at getting the old bar out. Can anyone help me? Ive tried prying and maneuvring the bar out. It seems to be caught between the catalytic converter and heat shield.

1. Drop your j-pipe...
2. Drop the k-frame about 3" in the rear.

^ i think he has a k24,

i ran into the same problem, well i never really got that far since i couldnt get to the bolts on the brackets that hold the sway bar, and i figured i wouldn't get far with out dropping the sub frame but i had no idea what bolts to take off and if it could be done with a jack and jack stands???

Go to Neuspeed's website and follow the instructions they have there for the front sway bar install.  It's the exact same as doing the TL-S front sway bar.

Thanks tim, found it

heres the link for anyone else that might need it

http://www.neuspeed.com/data/installs/15.20.27.2.pdf (http://www.neuspeed.com/data/installs/15.20.27.2.pdf)

ok... so after 4 long hours i got the tl-s sway installed. i did panic however when it was getting late and i hadnt even gotten the bar out! thanx for the help anyways.

so this is how my install night looked like..

i first went on neuspeed to look up the instructions at around 6pm. by 7 the car was in the air with both wheels off, subframe dropped and end links off.
now onto the hardest part. getting the brackets off. > [ the bolts were all rusted and the furthest bolt from the front of the car was in a really tight spot. i couldnt use a ratchet because it wouldnt fit, which made the job take twice as long using a wrench . so after about an hour i finally got the brackets off. so i thought i was in the clear. but then i couldnt get the bar out. even while prying on the sub frame to allow more room to maneuver the bar out, it would not come out. i finally got it almost out until i got it wedged between the catalytic converter and the heat shield above it. so i decided to unhook my whole exhaust from the hanger brackets, to allow the exhaust to sit lower, and giving me more room between the catalytic... and heat shield. then finally maneuvered it out. :) maneuvering the new bar in was a breeze because i squeezed it in the same i squeezed the old one out. i then bolted it everything back up and called it a day... by then it was 12 30pm!!! man i was tired!

from my own experience i would advice to clean off the rust using a wire wheel or wire brush off all the bolts. this made my install very easy to bolt everything back up. the install is quite easy. except for those two time consuming steps. unbolting the brackets and getting the bar out/in

how is the ride now?

the car feels alot more rigid when driving, and handles alot better when turning at higher speeds. the steering is also alot more responsive. this being with both sway bars installed.

glad to hear you got it installed.

sway bars > strut bars IMO

Hmmm, what makes you say that? I was actually thinking of getting a Neuspeed strut bar instead of the TL-S FSB because of the noted understeer when you get both the front and rear TL-S bars, and secondly, I'm VERY limited on tools, lol.

Speaking of which, fabulous010, have you noticed any understeer?

My comment might be biased because I have a 6MT which comes with OEM front strut bar already. I don't notice much understeer with both from and rear TL-S bars, I find the car to handle nicely and it feels more balanced.

I know there are different thoughts on which is better; sway bars or strut bars - I just feel upgrading the sway bars has the biggest effect on handling and reducing body roll, whereas the strut bar would be something that is complimentary to help tighten things up a but, but not absolutely necessary.

Mind you, I have no technical proof to back this up - just my opinion based on experiences with this car and past ones I've had  

yes sir. there is a bit of understeer but all which can be controlled. when you make a sharp turn at high speeds you'll notice it but the car just slides around the bend. i actually like it lol its not what your thinking. you wont be sliding straight into uncoming traffic. mind you that i am still on stock shocks. once i get coilovers i can adjust the stiffness settings to eliminate the understeer alittle bit more.
i would recommend that you do take it easy when it snows. then that little bit of understeer could be dangerous.
just go ahead and do both. you wont regret it

Ok, sounds cool. Now I just have to come up with the money! lol

info
OEM 7th AV6 Stabilizer Bar (mm., front/rear) 25.4 / 14.0


07 TL
Front: 27.2 mm diameter, 5.0 mm wall thickness* |*BASE
Rear: 18.3 mm diameter, 3.0 mm wall thickness* |*BASE
Front: 27.0 mm diameter, solid* |*TYPE–S
Rear: 20.0 mm diameter, solid* |*TYPE–S

Front 27.2mm (hollow, 5mm wall thickness)
(#019)---90120-SEP-A00 BOLT, FLANGE (10X35) 4 * $0.88 = $3.52
(#004)---51308-SDA-A00 BRACKET, FR. STABILIZER 2 * $1.89 = $3.78
(#003)---51306-SEP-A01 BUSH, FR. STABILIZER HOLDER (27.2MM) 2 * $2.83 = $5.66
(#002)---51300-SEP-A01 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER 1 * $61.71 = $61.71

51300-SEP-A21 27.0mm SPRING, FR. STABILIZER


i assume solid is better and since i have solid 20mm in rear, solid 27mm in front would make more scene?

i correct my if im wrong. but i think the base TL uses a 25.4 hollow (like our cm's) in the front BUT a 17 hollow in the rear. the type s uses a 27.2 solid for the front and a 20 solid at the rear

Yeah I think that's right. I don't know about the rear, though. When I did the TL-S swap, the OEM one that I took off didn't feel hollow, it felt solid. The TL front is hollow, and the TL-S front is solid, though.

you got mixed up. our is 25.4, base TL is hollow 27.2 rears are all solid either 17 or 20
TL-S uses 27 solid front and 20 solid rear

OH, right. The sole difference between the TL and TL-S FSB is that the TL is hollow while the TL-S is solid.

TL-S Front - 27.2mm solid
TL-S Rear - 20mm solid
TL Front - 27.2mm hollow
TL Rear - 17mm solid
OEM Front - 25.4 hollow
OEM Rear - ~14mm solid

Im doing this on saturday, along with instaling an SRI on my friends IS250. Maybe a little impromtu photo shoot who knows. If i remember to bring my camera ofcourse.
The rear sway bar looks much eaiser to instal than the front. Not sure i have the right tools to do the font. We will see.

like Paul said you need to drop frame little in back and jpipe, im gona do it when i replace jpipe so it should be easer. yeah back is easy comparing to front. im probably gona do jpipe and this at my friends show and he has snap on tools and lift so i dont see any problems to do this