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I don't know if any of you have expirenced this or have an idea of what it might be but, i'm going to throw it out there in hopes that someone does. This morning I left for work in a hurry I usually give the car 5 or 10 seconds of running before I back out of the drive way today I didn't. When i stopped at a red light with my foot on the brake the RPMS would drop a couple hundred, and the car would try to move forward. It would happen and then stop and then happen again. Kind of odd.


Here is the updated list of symptoms:

Issue started in the morning on 07/16

At a stop with the car in Drive or 1st gear when cold the car shutters, and lurtches forward slightly while exibiting a minute drop in RPMS.

When this issue occurs the lights dim.

On 7/3 I installed an intake (AEM V1)
On my last fill up I used Regular Gas insted of Premium for the first time in months.

Hmmm, sounds odd. I don't know if you have a MT or AT, but I have noticed for me (AT), that sometimes when braking, the car will downshift, and apparently that lower gear gives it enough torque to keep the car moving. This results in me having to push the brakes even harder. It's nothing serious, though.

I hope someone else can help you out better than I could.

It's a V6 auto. I have noticed what you speaking of as well.

Well, if that's what it is, and if you have OEM brakes, then I don't think there's much you can do. I'd say that it's the fault of the brakes, because I have to admit, they suck, lol. I've got the OEM tires and brakes with 43k miles on them, and both of them need replacing soon. My brakes are so damned sensitive it's not even funny. there's a huge dead spot in the brake pedal, then all of a sudden WHAM, you're thrown through the windshield!

My advice would be to always be prepared for that situation, or just simply get new brakes. I may be wrong, but it seems that when the brakes warm up a little, that problem tends to go away.

Very well could be the brakes. They are being upgraded to legend gs dual piston calipers this weekend if I get the hardware from Paul. The RPM's moving is what caused the alarm. It just didn't feel normal to me. I would doubt it's transmission related seeing as it was rebuilt less than 6k ago. I remember my Camry having a similar issue way back, and a tune up fixed it. Maybe its time for me to replace the plugs I don't know if they have ever been done, and I’m @ about 75k

And just for the record, whenever you see the RPMs drop like that when braking, that's when the car downshifts. You usually don't see the RPMs drop when shifting because you've got your foot on the pedal most of the time.

They are moving when I'm at a stop. That's why i'm concerned it doesn't happen while i'm braking it happens when the car is stopped, and i'm sitting in traffice with my foot on the brake.

All that happened was since you went out cold it up-shifted to fast on you.  “Normal” This happens to me every day when I take my car out the parking garage. They never warm the shit up; it goes from 1st to 2nd in a flash.

The RPM’s should reflect the shifting and that’s my assumption why your RPM’s did what they did.

maybe your idle is screwed up? did you check lines for that stuff? ask Paul
when was last time you cleaned your Throtle body?

I've had the same thing happen to my TL and my Expedition (I don't have the Expedition anymore. That got traded for my CM). It was an occasional thing with both vehicles. I never really knew why though. Also, it happened regardless of the temp. Absolutely random.

Oh I see now. Yeah, completely normal. The car is injecting more fuel to warm it up to operating temps (or something like that). That's partly why the car revs to like 1500 RPM during cold starts, and you can hear the intake hiss like crazy if you have one. Usually when I drive off while the car is still cold, the intake is super loud even when driving at like 30mph lol. But once the car is warm, you're good to go.

Jeff, that makes sense to me. I've experienced that in other vehicles. Unfortunately, it doesn't explain my vehicles doing it at completely random times.

I sent a PM to Paul I'd like to hear his thoughts. I'm going to attempt to change the plugs since I dont know wheather or not they have been done. Not sure how big a task it is but, i'm going to try it.

Just changed the plugs, and it is still acting up. Fucking driving me nuts.!! Still waiting to hear from pull I'm pulling my hair out I can't stand when my car isn't running right!!!

So your car is idling abnormally high? Have you tried checking your throttle cables and see how tight they are? If they're like super tight, you should loosen them. I accidentally tightened them too much once, and it made the car idle at 3000 RPM, lol.

There are none.

Mike is doing after its warmed too?

To a lesser degre but, its still there.

Hmm, well it sounds to me like it's throttle related. Have the RPMs changed at all, as in, are they moving erratically different from what you're used to see them? If we can cross out certain factors, it'll make it easier to diagnose what exactly is happening.

Just for kicks, have you tried resetting the ECU?

mine is almost the opposite.. i can cruise and just take my foot off the gas and ill feel the car almost "pull" itself like its trying to stop.. my old 97 volvo would keep rolling like a ton of steel (which it was) till you did something. seems like the accord will stop on its own though.

What do you mean by "almost the opposite?" Is your car shutting off, or are the RPMs dropping low? It sounds like your thing is absolutely normal. Our cars "shutdown" the fuel system when decelerating to help with braking. That may be what you're experiencing.

I agree. But the next time I drive my car, I'll examine the braking thing more closely. Although some more specific information as to how exactly this problem is affecting your car would be greatly appreciated. When you say the tachometer drops, where do they drop from? Like, is it merely from 1.5k to like 1.1k, or is it something like from 1.5k to 700 then back up to around 1.1k? Are you able to reproduce the problem?

I'm determined to see this problem get resolved.

Could it be your a/c compressor turning on? My rpms can +/- 300-400 rpms when it turns on. It is probably not as noticeable on your V6 though. Just a thought.

I drops from like 900 to 600. The drop isn't big, and it seems to go away when it gets warm. I had the guy that rebuild my transmission come for a ride with me, and he assures me its not transmission related (bullshit), and said to drive it for a couple of more weeks. I'll take his advice, and not argue with him because the transmission is under warranty so it's his problem if it goes. I'm going to wait a few days and see if it clears up. Another thing that may some how contribute to this is that fact that I used Regular gas, and I usually use premium. I'm going to add some octane booster, and fill the rest of the tank with premium and see if it has an impact(Thanks Tim).

Paul,

Thank you for taking the time to give me advise I will carry out your suggestion and see if it helps.

If you don't mind my asking what did Paul suggest?

Also, as far as your transmission guy goes, that's how it is across the board. Nobody will blame their own work as being the cause of a problem. They'll all say their shit is bulletproof and flawless... the list goes on. What kind of a warranty does your transmission have? 90 days/ 3K miles? 1 year/ 15K miles? Rebuilds usually don't have long warranties. That's why I ask.

1 yr. 15k, and I can pay to xtend it out to 3 years and 60k. New thing I noticed is that the head lights dim alot when this happens, and it totally goes away when it warms up.

Its a good thing you have a decent warranty on the tranny. From the way you describe all the symptoms, it points to the tranny. Or quite possibly your tranny computer (if there's a separate one from the main ECU, I wouldn't know).

The lights dimming add's to the mystery, and makes me wonder if it could be electrical... I've had a horriable fucking day!!!

My lights constantly dim when I have the A/C on. That's normal, although I'd like to see it go away.

My AC wasn't on.

Oh, well now that poses a slightly larger problem, lol. If the headlights are dimming, maybe you're having problems with the alternator. Or even, your serpentine belt is slipping maybe. I don't know, I'm just throwing out ideas. Seems like if you brake, and the car keeps moving, maybe the belt is slipping when you brake, which pretty much means that the engine is no longer powering those accessories, and during that short time period, the lessened drag is able to give the car a little more power, because the only thing that's being forcefully spun is just the crank pulley.

It sounds logical, but I don't know if it'll apply to your problem or not. It'd only take a couple minutes to take a look at the status of your serpentine belt.

Serpetine belt has less than 5k but, I will have a look I'm going to update the OP with all of the symptoms/ discoveries thus far.

I have kind of had similar "issues" like this for a while now as well.  If you start the car and throw it in drive before you give it time to warm up (especially on cold days), the car will remain at a high idle for a few minutes and you can seriously reach like 15-20mph without even touching the gas pedal because the car just wants to go.  I always associated it with the engine still warming up and dumping fuel through the lines, so the car feels like it's driving on it's own.  Dimming headlights have always been an isue too.  My headlights dim when I lay off the gas, and then get brighter when I get on the gas.  Hell, even my power steering seems to work less when I'm just stationary.  I guess it's the alternator not getting as much juice that causes the lights to dim... even with the A'pexi ground kit I have.

My car is going to Majestic Honda for diagnosis tomorrow. The transmission shop isn't will to admit that the transmission is the problem so my next logical step is to provide them with some proof. I'll let you guys know my results.

Boy I hope it's not your tranny Mike

Well, the good thing is he has a warranty on the tranny if it is that. So no more money being shelled out. Let us know how it goes Mike.

I hope it is that way it gets fixed for free!!!! I've spoken to Paul and, he's confident that is what the problem is. I 100% take his word hence i'm so cofident that is the issue. I just need something on paper to motivate this guy to fix it. You know how people are.

Well Majestic did a full diagnostic check of the car, and gave me a deal $52 instead of $90. The told me that may issue was transmission related, and I brought it into the tranny shop that rebuilt it, and i'm awaiting a call in the morning.

I hope the tranny shop reimburses you the $52 that you paid to have it diagnosed since you went to the tranny shop first.

They did actually. Still waiting to hear from them this morning. After reading the warranty in full something’s are not covered (basically electronics) but, I'll wait until I hear from them to pass judgment.

I knew it had to be the tranny. Majestic couldn't pin point exactly the issue? Like if it was electronics related?

It's Hondas policy that they don't rebuild transmissions or change parts on them. They just change the whole transmission other wise I would have had them do the work in the first place. Still waiting for a call.

"It looks like a stuck 1st solenoid call me around 2 and we will see if we can get you out of here today."

Let's hope it all works out...

God I hope so!

Fucking fail! They want to wait and test drive it in the morning when its cold. Which I guess makes sense. This mofo test driving it today parked it in front of his house and ran in for a few minutes. Kind of pisses me off but, I don't know if its worth flipping out over.

What the fuck is up with that? Using a customer's car to run to his house? He can use his own fucking car to run home. That's such a load of crap dude. I'm sure the car was sitting long enough for it to cool down for them to test drive it. You're getting run around because its a warranty issue.

You should've told the guy that you need to test drive his car out too, offer him some fast food, then drive to the farthest away Wendy's you can think of, get yourself a Baconator using whatever change you can find laying around in his car, then come back and tell him that you forgot about his order.

That's what I would've done.

I can see his point about wanting to test it in the am. Honestly It wouldn't act up unless it sat for literally like 5 or 6 hours. If it was anywhere near warm it wasn't happning i'm going to speak to him very kindly but, convey my feelings to him I don't appreciate my car being parked in the street. Also, I can see him not wanting to return it until he's tested it 100%. I'm just anxious to get my ride back.

Makes sense, but he still used your car to run to his house and left running in the street while he ran inside to grab something. That alone would set me off.

As far as waiting to test when its cold, I understand that. If that was the case, he shouldn't have driven it today at all. Just my opinion dude.

He didnt leave it running in the street. It was off, and locked. It he left it running I would have gotten in and drove it away.

I must've misinterpreted the succession of posts. My bad. But this post is what I was referring to.

I guess by parked I meant to imply it was off. Not that big of a deal, and my his house wasn't far from the shop anyway. It's just me getting angry.

I know the feeling. Hopefully you get this resolved quick bro.

Well here's the deal something is still wrong. They want me to drive it for a few day's, and bring it back Wed. and they are going to rebuild the transmission again, and have the car back to me by friday.

That doesn't make any sense. So they want you to drive it and have it possibly fail on you instead of starting the job now. Fucking bullshit.

+1

That makes no fucking sense. Did they even try to give you a valid reason why brining it back on Wed would benefit you?

LOL... Yeah I won't have to pay to rent a car for 4 days. The issue is not going to get any worse, and the car is fine once its warm. If it does get worse or I get stuck somewhere it's on them to get it towed etc.

Please don't misunderstand I’m extremely frustrated but, don't know that I want to anger the people who are working on my car. I'm going to express my displeasure but, not be demanding, and ignorant.

6sp swap........

Mike, if they screwed up, they screwed up. Based on our conversations they have been giving you a bit of a run-around. There is being demanding on getting it fixed and then there is being ignorant, the fact is that your car is dangerous right now since it has the ability to launch you forward into a intersection.


Please put her in neutral for the time being when coming to a stop, it is good practice for when you go 6sp

LOL that was the plan Paul, or even take off in second until it gets warm as the issue is only in first. I'm going there in about a half hour, and I'm going to demand that they give me something in writing that says it's okay to drive until Wed. that way if I do have an issue. I have a bit of recourse.  I don't feel the need to be a total ass because I understand that they may be busy, and can't get to the car until wed. It sucks but, I would rather have the car in my possession than there’s any way. So if they are not going to work on it until then I’m sort of happy to have it back. At the end of it all I’m going to express my displeasure with the owner of the shop and see where it gets me. I'm not the type to be an asshole about things but, I’m certainly going to express my feelings.

why do that, it sounds like a shitty warranty to begin with.

I doubt hes going to put thousands of miles on his car in less then a week.

You're missing the point.

LOL the time will run out on the warranty well before the mileage. I expressed my feelings, and got i writing that if I have any issues the towing etc. is on him. Also, the reason he is not fixing it right now is that he cannot get the parts until Tuesday afternoon. Z thank you for bringing up the point about increasing the mileage so it's out of warranty if I was close that would be awesome advice which i would have never thought of. In this case the balance of my warranty is 12,995 miles, and I drive about 6k a year. But, again thank you for pointing it out because I and many others would never think of that.

Which is exactly what I was referring to. Not sure how I was missing the point.

This was the point I was making. Mike got it.


Understandable Mike. You're right though, your year would be up long before the mileage.

Slightly off topic but, I hate that warranties carry a time. If it were just 12k miles car owners could get so much more out of it.

I agree. If that were the case, owners of multiple cars (Scott comes to mind) could take advantage of such a warranty. Unfortunately, businesses are there to make money not look out for everyone's better interests.

Mike, what shop is making you go through all of this... Majestic or some other place?

Aamco transmission... I'll reseve my judgement until the job is done.

Aamco? I should've known.  That's the same company that rebuilt 2 of my trannies years ago. The first tranny failed just after the warranty expired and I didn't get to experience the second one die because I blew the engine and junked the car. 6 speed swap before that warranty goes dude. I guarantee tranny failure after your warranty is up.

We shall see.