Audio/Video Q&A Thread

[clapton924]

Well I have begun to think its time for an audio upgrade.  I have the OEM H/U 6CD changer, with the XM disconnected and a Dension IceLink iPod adapter hooked up.  The problem I am having is that the iPod puts out such a massive amount of bass signal that the OEM speakers get distorted with bass before it gets loud enough to really rock out the way I want to.

Now I mainly listen to rock and electronica so I don't need a huge stereo system or subwoofer.  I am simply looking to replace my OEM speakers (Front & Rear only, no Tweeter replacement) with a 2-way or 3-way speaker to help eliminate the distortion and give me a cleaner overall sound that can handle the additional bass signal from the iPod.  

I am keeping my stock H/U since I think it puts out enough wattage for the time being, so I am looking for opinions on the following 2 types of speakers:

2-way 6.5" speakers (since I have the tweeter up front already, getting a speaker with a separate one would just be overkill)
3-way 6x9" speaker for the rear deck

I am looking to spend about a total of $300-$400 since the as far as I know the speakers can be easily replaced and there won't be any extra wiring/amps.  I have been looking at Sony, Rockford Fosgate, and Alpine.  Any other suggestions are welcome! Thanx in advance!

Last X-mas I replaced my front speakers with a set of Alpine SPS-600C component speakers.  Big improvement in sound clarity.  I was also able to fit the alpine tweeters into the stock locations.  The OEM tweeters are complete shit...I used to think they are were decent...but listen to a silk dome tweeter and you will be sold.

[JohnnyG123]

I finally installed a PIE adapter to use my phone as an mp3 player for music. The sound quality is great if the phone is not charging, however when the phone is hooked up to the charger and the engine is running there is a lot of sound interference. If i directly ground the 12v power outlet to the body will that help get rid of the interference?

[timot_one]

As long as it's a good chassis ground, it should help.  Where do you have it grounded right now?

[JohnnyG123]

As long as it's a good chassis ground, it should help.  Where do you have it grounded right now?

 Now the outlet is grounded to the factory location, not sure exactly where.

After searching around the internet more, it appears i need this:
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLA ... 001EAQTRI/

[CrackerTeg]

I'd say negative on the ground loop isolator. I've always seen those things as gimmicks. Try a good chassis ground like Tim suggested. It's a no cost fix as opposed to throwing money at it. I have absolutely no noise coming into my speakers from what you describe and I can have anywhere from two to three devices charging at a time and that includes my phone, mp3 player, and gps. Check your ground hookup and if need be, move it.

[JohnnyG123]

Ok i'll try to ground the outlet at a better location to see what it does. Today I tried plugging the phone charger in the outlet in the center glovebox thing with the same result.

[CrackerTeg]

I believe those have the same ground point. I could be wrong. Its been a while since I pulled apart my interior.

[timot_one]

Okay, I may have misunderstood what was happening.  I would advise against the ground loop isolator.  That is the last alternative after you've tried everything else.  Those things do nothing but waste energy and doesn't really fix the problem.  

So, you get this problem when you plug in your phone charger?  It sounds like a voltage differential that creates a ground loop.  You'll probably want to ground that adapter to the same ground as your car charger is using.

[JohnnyG123]

The interference is only when i am using the stock HU on aux. input via the PIE adapter and playing MP3's from my Motorola Droid while plugged into the car charger with the engine running.



Also another stupid question, does anybody know how to repair an antenna cable? I damaged the end that connects behind the lower cubby last time i had it apart. I tried splicing in a new end but it is a coaxial cable and very difficult to get a good connection.

[timot_one]

Sounds like a ground loop caused by a voltage differential from your head unit and your car charger.  

As for your antenna cable, you're probably not going to be able to repair it, so your only option is to replace it.  I'm pretty sure it's a 2 piece cable in your dash, so you might be able to just replace the part you damaged.

[Paulius005]

After reading some recent posts I just want to clear up something I was confused about. Will I be able to fit 6.5 components in the door with the adapter or do I have to go with 5.25.

Also, which one is better if I have 6x9s in the back and a 10 inch sub as well and why.

[timot_one]

You can fit 6.5" speakers in your doors if you want.  It all depends on the magnet size though.  I had to chop my doors up because my door speakers are 6.5" subs.  It's all about how far you're willing to go.

As for the rear speakers, that's a whole different ball of wax.  First, don't expect a 6"x9" to do the job of a subwoofer.  It's not designed to do that, and it's not physically capable of reproducing those frequencies.  In a high end audio system you'll want your rear speakers to be crossed over at a higher frequency than your front speakers so the sound image is in front of you, and not behind you.  I have my front speakers crossed over at 80 Hz (HPF) with a 12 dB slope, with my rear speakers crossed over at 100 Hz (HPF) with a 12 dB slope, and my subwoofer crossed over at 80 Hz (LPF) with a 12 dB slope.  With that set up, my front door speakers are reproducing midbass, giving it the "kick" most people want from a sound system, and it will help trick our ears that the bass in the trunk is coming from up front.  If you have your rear speakers trying to reproduce lower frequencies, it will draw your attention to the rear and make it sound like your sub is in the trunk.  Another thing is that the rear speakers should be barely noticeable compared to the front speakers.  While rear speakers are important, they are not nearly as important as the front speakers.

[Paulius005]

I think you misunderstood my question... I know that 6x9s distort sound because of their shape and are not a replacement for a sub woofer. I will have a 10 inch alpine type r in a fiber glass box in the back along with alpine type r 6x9s... my question is should I put 6.5s or 5.25s in the front. Which ones would you recommend in the front, the 6.5 or 5.25s? I'm assuming the 5.25s will focus on much more just mid range bass while the 6.5s will get a little deeper but not by much, and I will be going with a component system in the front.

I like to focus much more on quality rather than loudness, but I am within a budget, so I thought I would match all the speakers and subs to be either alpine type r or type x with an Alpine PDX-5 amp.

[timot_one]

I'd go with 6.5" speakers in the front.  With something smaller than that, your midbass will suffer.

[Paulius005]

K. Thanks

Does my mindset on my system make sense (Quality over loudness but within a budget) or am I crazy?

Alpine SPR-69C (6x9" Type R)
SPR-17S (6.5" Components Type R)
Alpine SWR-1042D (10" Sub Type R)
Alpine PDX-5 (5 channel amp)
Alpine CDA-105 (Stereo)

Trunk and doors will be covered in eDead and Sub will be in a fiberglass box.