I've also heard that when you setup a grounding kit like that, it's better to have one ground wire go to each point instead of making it one long chain.
Mike is right. The struts were blown (to the point where oil was leaking out of the adjusters) and that along with the big dip caused the spring perch to fail. I believe that in other circumstances, the perch would not have failed because the strut would have absorbed the shock. Good times, though.
Ahah. Yeah. I have nothing new on the accord, so I haven't taken many pictures of them. So, the story on the accord is that the spring perch clip (only used on Koni yellows for height adjustability) bent as a result of a big dip on the freeway and my blown struts. The perch then fell through and ended up sitting on top of the upper A arm. More pics:
Did this happen intentionally ? Or was it an accident ? You tell me. I'll tell you after a few posts.
And some recent pics of my friend's car (not honda safe);
Driving a built camaro; sorta looks like that ^ when you're riding shotgun.
Also, I apologize for not being so active lately. Forgive me for having the wrong birth date on my profile. I didn't realize until some people personally contacted me and told me about it. My birthday was actually on Feb. 3. I was way past 21 on March 3rd. I've been way busy with school and trying to fix my benz, so again, my apologies. Here's some pics of that thing (camera phone);
Be a good tech for a couple years after graduating from UTI and you can make 20/hr. Flat rate. At least. Flat rate is awesome, especially if you're quick at doing work and know short cuts
I'm almost done at UTI. It's my last course (or phase, as they call it). UTI is a great school with a lot of information. It'll help you if you want to keep working on cars because not only do you get a lot of hands on work done, but you also get to learn the theory behind how these components work to better diagnose them and integrate them together with the entire car. If you're honestly there to learn (which is probably only 10% of the students there), there's a lot of information to learn. Just don't hang out with the wrong people and what not. With the core program, you'll learn everything on a car from bumper to bumper. The Exton campus might try to push you to take the Ford F.A.C.T. program, but I don't suggest it if you're just going to work at a private shop. It's only good for the electrical knowledge and if you're going to try to take a dealership's program offered at the school (it also costs another $5k). Those programs are great if you want free training to work at a dealership, but there are drawbacks to that. Something about having to work at a dealership with at least a 2 year contract I think... And you don't get to choose the dealership. And if you want to apply for the dealership programs, you need a 4.0GPA. It's not hard at all to get that. You need to be an idiot to fail any of those classes. I don't know what else to say. UTI is a great school if you really want to work on cars. You get lots of hands on work done there too. They have clip cars that you get to work on; they'll be bugged and you get to diagnose them, etc etc. Just PM me if you want more information.
I've never changed my filter... I didn't find it necessary. Although I'd stick to Honda ATF-Z1 because it has special additives for the transmission. I'm assuming its for better lubrication and keeping the temps lower for transmission longevity. In other words, if the manufacturer calls for it, I'm going to use it. You can really mess parts up if you don't use what's recommended.
So it seems that no one has answered the OP's question yet. The reason you don't want to change out suuuuper dirty transmission fluid (like gunk) is because you can dislodge gunk or debris from somewhere in your tranny and it may end up in your valve body causing a solenoid to stick open or closed. Once that happens, you pretty much need a new valve body... Drop your pan and see if your fluid is gunk. If it is, you can try to do a fluid change, but don't expect the best. It can't really hurt trying the fluid change.
Well I'm assuming that it would be bad to put oil on your tires... Oil causes rubber to get soft and sorta crumble... It does this to your bushings on your control arms, sway bars, etc, which is why oil leaks are so bad. I don't recommend doing this.
Edit: Random fact; Armorall also causes tires to deteriorate... Armorall brings all of the silicone from the tire's sidewall up to the surface, so if you don't use Armorall consistently, it will actually dry out your tires.
Show Posts
