I'm being nit picky about the weight.  Certain wheels and tires may be the exact same size, but a completely different weight.  Have you done an alignment yet?

I have not...  I'm going to get that done first thing tomorrow.  I'll probably find the spec sheet to be super ridiculous.

Same size as my first set of aftermarket wheels when I used to get good gas mileage.

They'ye maybe 1lb heavier.  Definitely lighter than oe.

to check if your wheel hub, simply lift your car and check for play in the wheel. your wheel shouldnt have any play when you try to move it up and down. also if you have a nail in your tire it could cause your tire to click. check to see if you have anything in your tire

There's no play in the wheel.  Just noise.  But the wheel bearing is bad.  I know it.

A bad wheel bearing could be the culprit also Brian.  I had to replace a rear wheel bearing a few years ago when I lost it on an icy road and went into a small snow bank sideways.  You should be able to pull it off man.  It's not impossible to do.

Yeah, I figured it could be an issue too.  I'm just thinking that a front wheel bearing could be more difficult to do than a rear wheel bearing.

im not sure how many mileage you have on the car, but some poeple on here changed them at 100km. i have 103km and i changed them yesterday, and there was a noticeably improvement in performance. ill let you know if i notice an improvement in fuel economy. if you have over 100km it wouldn't hurt to change them

Keep me posted with that.  I'm at 103k miles so that may be a necessity.  I know my tech recommended the same thing for my mom's mdx.

What about weight?  Do you have anything heavy in your car or are you carrying around something new?  Did you get different wheels or tires?  I agree with Mike though.  Get an alignment done because that can definitely make a difference.

I have nothing in my car.  Literally.  Only me and a backpack.  I still have my work emotions, not much different from my old 5zigens.  I used to get good gas mileage with the same setup back then.


Althoughhhhhh something may have come up.  Before, my car used to make this weird noise from the front left wheel hub.  It's not a grinding or a clicking noise, but a sort of metal on metal clicking sound.  It's constant.  Doesn't matter whether or not I'm turning.  As long as the wheel is turning, it makes the noise.  I also have another noise, which may be associated with this.  When I'm driving at highway speeds and I'm making a sweeping right turn, the front left tire hums...  But only when turning.  It makes the same noise when I'm turning left, but not as much.  It's the signs of a bad wheel bearing and I know it's not good to keep driving with it.  Any ideas on whether or not that can cause poor fuel economy?  Also, has anyone had a wheel bearing go bad on them?

I haven't checked my o2 sensors, but I believe that they're a non serviceable item and they only get replaced once you get a MIL light.  I'm using 5w-20 synthetic pennzoil platinum right now.  I know my fuel economy issue isn't related to that because I noticed it before my oil change.  I drive very calmly without any hard acceleration.  I rev to 3.5k the most on a daily basis.  My route to school is 5n -> 55n -> 91e -> 15n so I don't go up and down any hills at all.  My fuel economy should be pretty damn good. I'm just confused.  I'll get an alignment this weekend and see if anything changes.

Oh right, I forgot to mention.  Air filter is new.  I checked the spark plugs a few weeks ago and they were good (no fouling, etc etc).  Not so sure about the faulty injector...  Catalytic converter should be ok.  No funky smells and the afr is switching back and forth around 3% so it seems okay...  Any other ideas?

So my issue is that my car has been giving me poor fuel economy...  I'm not sure if it came slowly or instantly, but I noticed a big change in fuel economy recently.  I'm not sure if it could be modification related or not, but I'm not exactly sure what the issue is here.  Maybe some of you members can help me troubleshoot and give me tips on what to look for.  I own a 2007 Honda Accord coupe.  It's a 4 cylinder, so I should be getting decent gas mileage.  It's rated at 24city/34highway.  I drive roughly 110 miles daily all highway, so I should be getting ~450 miles out of the tank, give or take a few miles for a little city driving, but instead I get around 350-400 miles to the tank.  I don't drive aggressively so I know that it's not me.

Here's a few things that I've checked already:
STFT (short term fuel trim)
LTFT (long term fuel trim) - Around 3% so it's actually adding a little bit of fuel. It's negotiable. I have the icebox mod, tb coolant bypass, tb heatshield, etc etc.
IAT - normal
Load - 20% at idle.  I'm not sure what's normal for our car, but I figured that was since I'm DBW.
CTS - normal
Intake timing adv. - normal
Tire pressures - ~35psi cold (all around)

So I figured that the engine is running fine.  I have no MIL set.  What else could the problem be?
I don't have my fender liners (as they ripped off)...  Not sure if that contributes to anything
I have poor alignment also since I just recently lowered the car more.  I know that can affect fuel economy, but I figured that it was slight.

Any ideas?  I can put up with it for now, but I just want to figure out what the issue is.

I jack it up at the rear tow hook then put the jack stands under it when its fully lifted.

I bought my evil car a new oem grill and the right rear spring perches for the Konis.

Just ridiculous:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r6ltUgtFWI

I'm not into the meet scene anymore.  Too many ricers.  It's become an equipment race.  If you REALLY want to find out where the meets are in socal, check out v6performance.net.  They have a big socal scene (seeing that the forum was started by some people in socal).

AllData says to "inspect" the valves and timing chain at 110k miles.  My inspection is whether or not I hear the valves ticking.  You adjust them when they start making noise.

I have an aftermarket windshield, and there isn't much of a difference. The only thing that's different is that the sight glass thing for the VIN number is a little off, so you can't read the vin easily.  It's not a bad thing.  Just a little input for your decision.

From my locked thread: http://noelbarnum.zenfolio.com/p1025319 ... #h2e40351c

Oops. This is just an example of what could happen. Enjoy.