Great write up Skippy. Tons of great information. I'd also like to add that I would not have my tranny swap if it wasn't for you.
But, I have to say something about the speedo being off. Since I have been able to pace myself at multiple speeds with my GPS, I have found that my speedo is 20% faster than my actual speed. The 10 MPH quick and dirty math works just fine, but what I use for fast calculation is that I add 5 MPH ever 25 MPH. I.E. - when my speedo says I'm going 30 MPH, I'm actually going 25 MPH; when my speedo says I'm going 60 MPH, I'm actually going 50 MPH; when my speedo says I'm going 90 MPH, I'm actually going 75 MPH. I've tested this numerous times and done the math. Basically, you are going 15% slower than what your speedo says, or your speedo is 20% faster than your actual MPH.
DO NOT E-MAIL ME OR IM ME SAYING THAT YOU CANNOT LOG IN, UNLESS YOU HAVE FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW AND I HAVE REPLIED IN YOUR THREAD SAYING THAT YOUR ACCOUNT HAS BEEN ACTIVATED
For anyone that already knows me or one of the other mods here, just get in contact with me and I will activate your account to bypass the following.
Failure to provide all information requested in red in your original post will result in your request being ignored.
If you modify your post to add pictures later, it will not be seen and your account will not be activated. Please wait to post until you are able to provide all requested information.
All registrations older than 1 week will be deleted and you will have to re-register your screen name.
You will not be able to post as your registered name until it is activated, so post as "guest" or your registered name with "-guest" appended, or some variation of those options.
1. Your Registered Username. 2. Your real first name. 3. Where you are from. 4. Tell us about your Accord. 5. Show us a picture of your Accord. 6. Post a picture of yourself. 7. Tell us how you found EliteCM.net.
The reason we ask for this information is to insure that you are a living breathing person, and not a spam bot. The other reason is because this is EliteCM.net, our members are elite CM owners that know their cars well enough to know "what wheels will fit" and "if a camber kit is needed when they lower their car". We would all like to avoid answering remedial questions like that and having redundant threads clogging up our forums.
1. Your Registered Username. So that we know who to activate. This is the most important part. I cannot activate you if I don't know which Username to activate!! IE: Username - timot_one
2. Your real first name. We are on a first name basis here, so we would like to know yours. You will learn ours shortly too. IE: My name is Timothy.
3. Where you are from. This is so that the people who are already members can get excited that they have a new member joining from their location. IE: I live in Troy, OH
4. Tell us about your Accord. We love to talk about our Accords, and love to hear others talk about their Accords. Indulge us a little bit and tell us about some of your mods. Just posting that you have an 03 Accord Coupe won't cut it. If its stock, tell us the options you had added on. Whatever works. Even a simple cell phone holder is a mod. IE: I have a Satin Silver 2003 Accord Sedan, swapped in a TSX K24A2 and 6MT with a LSD, Integra Type R intake cam and 50º cam gear, RSX Type S exhaust cam, Comptech supercharger with a custom aftercooler, and water methanol injection.
5. Show us a picture of your Accord. If there is one thing we like more than talking about Accords, it's looking at pictures of Accords. Share a picture of yours. To do so, your photo will need to be hosted on a picture server like Photobucket. IE: My Accord:
6. Post a picture of yourself. A) So that we really know that you are a living breathing person, but also B) So that we can start putting faces to names. IE: Here I am ordering ice cream at a meet a few years ago.
7. Tell us how you found EliteCM.net. Just because I'm interested.... IE: I was a member over on gen7accord.com, and found a link to this site.
So that's it. That's not to hard is it? I haven't asked you to do anything that I was not willing to do myself, so don't be afraid to post. I think it will be well worth it in the long run, and this will prevent EliteCM.net from becoming the victim of spam bots and general douchebaggery. Thanks in advance to all that post.
Here is the code to make posting easier in your activation thread.
Code:
[b]1. Your [u]Registered[/u] Username.[/b] [b]2. Your real first name.[/b] [b]3. Where you are from.[/b] [b]4. Tell us about your Accord.[/b] [b]5. Show us a picture of your Accord.[/b] [b]6. Post a picture of yourself.[/b] [b]7. Tell us how you found EliteCM.net.[/b]
Brake component: Front Slotted Rotors Manufacturer: PowerSlot Location of purchase: Tire Rack Impressions: Awful! I will never buy another PowerSlot product ever again. These rotors would start to vibrate under normal braking at freeway speeds (70-80 mph).
Brake component: Front Pads Manufacturer: Hawk HFP Location of purchase: Tire Rack Impressions: Considering that they were paired up with crappy rotors, I can't give a good review. What I can comment on is that they created a lot of dust and my wheels were always dirty. The braking performance was alright, but not a huge difference,
Here's a pretty simple How To for swapping your calipers. If you've ever replaced your rotors, then you'll find this just as easy, with only the addition of bleeding your brakes after you swap the calipers.
I'll be updating the post with pics eventually.
Parts Needed 1994-95 Acura Legend GS Sedan dual piston calipers - OEM Part # Left Caliper - 45230-SP0-E01 Right Caliper - 45210-SP0-E01 i4: New Rotors (for the Legend GS Sedan or LS Coupe) - OEM Part # 45251-SP0-E00 V6: New Rotors (for the Accord V6 [these will not fit the i4]) - OEM Part # 45251-TA6-A00 New Brake Pads (for the Legend GS Sedan) - OEM Part # 45022-SL0-G02
Tools Needed I will update this with the list of tools needed since I forgot all the sizes of everything. Air tools are preferred, but you can get away with hand tools if you don't have access to air tools and a compressor. Impact Wrench Universal joint (may not be needed depending on the size of your impact wrench) 19mm deep socket (or whatever fits your wheel lugs) 17mm socket 10mm wrench impact driver with a phillips head tip hammer (a.k.a. - swing press) bucket (to drain brake fluid in) pb blaster brake/parts cleaner
Step 1 - put your car up on jack stands - remove your wheels - hit your caliper bracket bolts with some pb blaster
Step 2 - remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper brackets to the knuckle - remove the calipers and rest them on the front lower arm (do not disconnect the brake lines yet) - remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the rotor to the hub using the impact driver and hammer and pull the rotor off
Step 3 - install the new rotor on the hub and replace the 2 screws - clean the rotors with brake/parts cleaner - put the new pads in the new calipers and install them on the rotors making sure to swap the sides (install the right caliper on the driver side and the left caliper on the passenger side) - replace and tighten the 17mm bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the knuckle
Step 4 - disconnect the brake lines from the old calipers with the 10mm wrench - transfer the brake lines to the new calipers, making sure to replace the copper crush washers with new ones
Step 5 - bleed your brakes (make sure to pump them up slowly to avoid agitating the brake fluid and creating air bubbles)
Step 6 - put your wheels back on - put your car on the ground
Step 7 - make sure your brakes are working properly before going out for a test drive - bed in your new rotors and pads
For everyone who wants to post their own "profile" page so people can get to know you, here is a template you can use if you want.
Steps: 1) Select Post a New Topic in "Introductions & Profiles" forum 2) In the Subject field, put: "[Profile] Your Screen Name" 3) Copy and paste the following code and fill it out with your own information! It's already formatted and everything.
About Me: Real Name: Timothy Location: Troy, OH Occupation: Regional Account Rep / MECP Licensed Installer Interests: cars (import, euro, muscle, classic); music (listening, playing, writing, recording); audio systems; cooking
About My Car: Model: 2003 CM55 LX Color: Satin Silver Metallic Engine: K24A2 Tranny: CL9 6MT
News: The head was dropped off to get ported and polished on 03/11, after that it will be going to the machine shop to get the valve guides honed, a valve job done, and will be decked. I should be picking it up when I get back from my vacation. I also received my block back from ERL Performance on 03/15. When I get everything back, I'll be claying the motor to figure out if I can use an OEM thickness head gasket, or if I need something a little thicker.
Current Mods: Engine/Drivetrain AEM CAI RSX Type S Throttle Body Comptech RSX Type S Supercharger 3" Pulleyboys Supercharger Pulley J.Mercado Aftercooler (removed to test Noribilt Aftercooler) NoriBilt Prototype Aftercooler Front Mount Heat Exchanger AEM Water/Methanol Injection IPS KSC '11 Cams K20A2 50º VTC Gear OEM Lightweight Exhaust Cam Gear Hybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner Aeromotive FPR Braided Fuel Lines Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail RC 750cc Injectors Hasport Intake Manifold Adapter 4-1 SS custom header with 1 7/8" primaries Magnaflow 3" Metal Spun High Flow Cat 3" Mid Pipe with Magnaflow 30" resonator 2.5" Magnaflow Mufflers (dual) OEM TSX Exhaust Tips Comptech Short Shift Kit Shortened Shifter Solid Brass Transmission Bushings RSX Type S 14 lb Flywheel Competition Clutch Stage 4 Clutch TSX 6 Speed Transmission OBX LSD Hondata KPro Modifry Yellowjacket AEM UEGO Wide Band O2 Gauge AEM Oil Pressure Gauge AEM Boost Gauge PLX DM-200 60mm Gauge PLX DM-200 OBD 60mm OBDII Gauge PLX SM-AIT sensor PLX SM-FLUID sensor
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels Tein Comfort Sport coil overs Comptech 22 mm rear sway bar TL Type S 27.5 mm front sway bar Ingalls front and rear camber kit Neuspeed front shock tower bar OEM V6 6MT front shock tower bar Cusco Type II chassis brace (removed for header clearance) Ichiba v2 15mm spacer (for front Buddy Club wheels to clear RL calipers) Buddy Club P1 Racing SF 18"x7.5" +42 wheels (summer) BF Goodrich g-Force Sport 245/40/18 Enkei ZR2 18"x7.5" +42 wheels (winter) Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25V 225/45/18 Acura RL 4 Piston Calipers Rotora 13" Rotors (front) Rotora Honda Pilot Rotors (rear) EBC Yellowstuff Pads Rear Drum to Disc Conversion
Exterior 35% tint all around '03-'05 ASEAN Accord Grille (custom painted) Shaved Door Moldings OEM Wing Spoiler OEM HFP Coupe Front Lip OEM HFP Coupe Rear Lip TSX Mirrors Shaved Honda "H" / Accord / LX badges from trunk
Lighting OEM Housings retrofitted with S2000 projectors Philips Gen3 ballasts w/ Philips 4300k D2S bulbs HID kit with 5000k bulbs (high beams) 1st Gen MDX Fog Lights with DDM HID kit with 3000k bulbs
Interior/Electronics Civic Type R Shift Knob
ICE Multimedia Alpine IVA-W505 7" Multimedia DVD h/u Alpine P1 Navigation Alpine PXA-H701 5.1 Dolby Pro Logic II & DTS Surround Sound Processor Alpine VPE-S431 Video switcher Alpine KCE-415i iPod Video Interface Alpine TUAT020XM XM Tuner Apple 6th Gen 160 Gb iPod Classic Apple 5th Gen 60 Gb iPod Video Sony DVX-11A DVD player Reverse camera in tail light key hole Sony XVM-R75 7" Motorized Flip Down Monitor (headliner) (x2) disconnected Sony XVM-H65 6.5" Monitor (headrest) (x2) disconnected Sony XVM-H6 5.8" Monitor (sun visor) (x2) disconnected
In Progress: Engine/Drivetrain My New Engine Build: ERL Performance K24A2 Sleeved Short Block w/88mm bore ARP Main Studs ACL Bearings Manley Turbo Tuff Rods CP 11.1:1 CR Pistons K20A2 Oil Pump Honda Oil Pump Chain K20A2 Head w/Light Port and Polish ARP Head Studs Cometic Head Gasket Ferrea Valve Guides Ferrea 6000 Series 35mm Intake Valves Ferrea 6000 Series 30mm Exhaust Valves Ferrea 105lb Valve Springs Ferrea Retainers Ferrea Retainer Keepers IPS KSC '11 Cams K20A2 50º VTC Cam Gear K24A4 Exhaust Cam Gear Honda Timing Chain Hybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner Circuit Hero Lower Timing Chain Guide '07 Civic Si Upper Timing Chain Cover K20A2 Water Pump K20A2 Oil Cooler Hybrid Racing Oil Cooler Hoses Hybrid Racing Coolant Hoses Hybrid Racing 74mm Throttle Body
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels Work CR-KAI 18"x8.5" +43mm
Exterior ASEAN Front Bumper and Grille (waiting for paint)
Interior/ICE Alpine TME-M740BT 7" Touch Screen Monitor molded in the OEM upper dash mount
Future Mods and Plans: Engine/Drivetrain Eaton/Magnum Power MPx90
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels Ultra Racing Chassis braces
Exterior Mugen front lip
Lighting TL headlight retrofit with custom molded bezels FX headlight retrofit in blackhoused '03-'05 Inspire housings LED tail light retrofit
Interior/ICE Alpine PKG-M780 Dual 7" monitors (x3[sun visors/front seat headrests/rear seat headrests]) Alpine PKG-RSSE2 10.2" monitor w/DVD player (x2[headliner]) New Trunk Set Up
Car History: Bought used with 27k on it in July of 2004 from Honda Village in West Newton, MA (worst dealership ever). It replaced my 1991 VW 16v GTi.
In the beginning of December of 2004 I was hit by an inexperienced driver that didn't understand the concept of stop signs, turn signals, or which cars had the right of way. She t-boned me as I was turning left in front of her, which caused damage to my left rear door and quarter panel.
Within the first month of owning my car, I have been upgrading the audio system. It has been evolving slowly since then to what it is right now, but is still far from completion.