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I have been thinking about changing the brakes since the car is starting to do the shuttlers again like my first car before I swap for ceramic pads. I was thinking about stock rotors + ceramic pads. The thing is I am the 3rd owner of the car so I really don't know the history. I was wondering how can you tell if you have to change rotors? Is there a specify range for the thickness? If so could you let me know? I can use my dad's calibrate to measure the thickness of the rotor.

So just let me know. I was looking at the Akabono pads and its 40 bucks front and 30ish for the rear. I don't want it to turn into a 200-300 buck brake job unless I absolutely have to change it.

So UPS dropped off my rotors and oil filter. I am still waiting for the pads. I hope the rotors will fit. They are freaken heavy.

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Sigh... Made in China.... At least they were priced right. 22 + some change for each side. My friend also used his amazon prime account so Free 2day shipping ^^ .
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Measure the rotors to see where you are at. There is a minimum maching/discard on every rotor. I can get you the discard spec on Tuesday when I go back into work. How many miles are on the car? You will have resurface the rotor since you are getting a shudder/pulsation, or replace it if its under spec.

Thanks Thien! Umm I have almost 63k on it. From the car fax I know that the rear pad have been replaced once but not the front. And I can see it kinda cutting close to the one bar that will scream like a bitch to tell you that you need to change brakes.

Sorry to thread jack, but seems like it'd fit here. When I go to a stop, like the last few feet before a full stop, it feels as if the brakes catch more rotor on one part of it than the other if that's possible/makes sense.

You more and likely have room to cut since you only have 63k miles.

Check the depth of both the inboard and outboard pad. You might have a stuck guide pin/slide pin. How many miles do you have? Also, when you mean one part more then the other. Do you mean like one side of the pad is grabbing more or actually say the left or the right side is grabbing more. Also, when you brake, does your car pull in a certain direction.

whoa I was really tripping out earlier when I jumped to your last post. I was like wtf? my brakes need to do what now? lol Thanks man.

Inboard and outboard pad on the rotors? I'm learning all this car stuff little by little and don't really know what to look for. My 06 sedan is approaching 52k, but a lot of city miles.

Look at the inboard and outboard brake pad. If the outboard pad is lower then the inboard pad, you have a stuck slide pin/guide pin. If the inboard pad is lower then the outboard pad, you have a stuck caliper. With 52k miles, you are either on your first or second set of brake pads. With a lot of city miles, you are putting more wear and tear on the pads with the constant braking. Check out your brake pads and measure them. Confirm wether you need brakes or not. With 52k miles, you should still have room to resurface the rotors.

I purchased the car only 6 months ago at about 47k. Was given new brakes and rotors with the purchase (I asked for them). Maybe the messed it up when they installed 'em? I'll check the sizes and take some pics soon.

They might've not lube up the slide pins. If the lube on the slide pins dry up, it will seize that slide pin from sliding back and forth. Thus, causing uneven pad wear.

TY Thien for answering my questions!!

Hey Thien, is there any word on that discard spec? I haven't checked my rotors, but I've only got 46k miles, which leads me to believe that they're probably fine for awhile. I'm just trying to figure out if it'll be cheaper for me to just buy new rotors instead of getting them resurfaced. It's like $90 at a local shop to get an axle (pair of 2) resurfaced. I guess It'd be a little more expensive if I got the Brembo blanks ($55 each from Tirerack). Or I could get the Centric rotors that Ken posted. Either way I have to get new rear pads (They wore out before the fronts?). I'm going to see if that same local shop sells EBC greenstuff pads. I'd do the brake stuff myself, but I don't have the time with school and football to just do these things.

I will find out tomorrow. I did not work today due to jury duty. As for the rears wearing out before the fronts, it is a common problem and how newer Hondas brakes are. They use more brake power towards the rear. Centric rotors is an OK brand. We use them from time to time at my shop for rotor replacement. $90 to resurface 2 front rotors is a rip off. For that price, you might as well buy new rotors. Since you only have 46k miles, you more and likely have plenty of room to resurface. Anyone on this board who has my number please remind me to get rotor specs for you guys. I have alzheimers, and I can't remember anything.

yeah centric are okay. I didn't want to spend 55 on the brembo blanks know they are not made in germany anymore.

Also 90 is a rip off to resurface. My shop asked me 20 to resurface both rotors. My friend used his amazon account and got me the the 2 fronts for ~44 + some change and free 2 day shipping. I still need to get the akebono pads. They are 50 on ebay now. but I am trying to see if I can use my Bing account to save some more. My friend also bought some puralotor pureone filters for me. 2 for 10 bucks. He is also trying to get my redline 5w30 but the cheapest he can get me is 9.50 per bottle. So I think I am going to hold off on that for a while.

Thanks for the info. I think the reason why it cost so much was because I had them take the rotors off, etc. Like I said, it's hard for me to do these kinds of things, because of my intense schedule. However, I think that I'm going to bite the bullet and do it myself one of these weekends. My plan right now is probably to get the Centric rotors, and some EBC Greenstuff (or the lesser Ultimaxx pads). This ends up costing a little over $100 for parts, and $0 for labor if I do it myself. If I took my car to a shop, it'd probably be over $200 just for parts and labor.

Edit: Here's some numbers. At that same shop, it'll be $159.95 to resurface the rear rotors and install NAPA brake pads. I also asked them about resurfacing rotors that I simply just bring in. $20 for that. So, if I bought the EBC Greenstuff from Amazon for $56.55, and took my stock rotors in to get resurfaced, that'll be roughly $75-80, about half the cost of getting them done at the shop. I think I'm going to do it myself.

just remember after you install them, check check check check, the brakes are the only thing that will stop your car. Also you will need to bed them in. Google it. My friend will be doing the bedding in for me.

My rotors got resurfaced at 46K at the Lexus dealership my car came from. They shutter terribly now at 65K miles. I would suggest replacing them based upon my experience.

That could also be from improper bedding in, pads used, you're driving habits, etc. The list goes on.

I think at this point I'm going to resurface my rear rotors just for this pad install, and if they end up warping down the road, I'll replace them then.

True, I just know I got new pads and resurfaced rotors and they blow now. I have to clue as to what they replace them with. I figured it would've been quality work coming from a Lexus dealership though. I also have drums in the back, dont know if that has any effect. I think they are original.

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2029 (http://elitecm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2029)

Bam! Others will probably tell you Brembo blanks. But, since your car is a DD, I don't think that the extra cost for the performance is really that necessary.

Edit: Here (http://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-121-40036-C-Tek-Standard/dp/B000C01U8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1256088323&sr=1-1)'s the i4 front rotor, although I don't know if the front rotor differs between i4 and v6 models, so don't quote me for anything, lol.

The front rotors are different between i4 and v6 models. They're even different between 5AT and 6MT v6 models.

I think the diameter of the V6 is bigger. I think I am going to go with the Brembo blank when I do it, not sure what pads though.

The diameter between the V6 and I4 are different, and there is a difference between the V6 15" and 16" rotor. I left the spec paper at work. I was in a hurry. I will try to get it tomorrow.

For a little more clarification, the 5AT and 6MT coupe are different.  The 6MT sedan is the same as the 5AT.

That's what I meant. Thanks for the clear up Mark.

Accord with the K24

Fronts - .826
Rears - .314

Accord with the J30 w/15" rim

Fronts - .826
Rears - .314

Accord with the J30 w/16" rim & 17" rim

Fronts - 1.023
Rears - .314

All measurements are in millimeters.

Thanks, Thien!

Your kidding right? I thought 6mt sedan is the same as 6mt coupe.. NOO!!!! I already order the rotors...

You should be OK there. As long as you ordered the 6MT pads.

yeah i got the v6 mt pads. Still waiting for them to come in. I will post pix once everything has come in and I will make a DIY for everyone who is curious and what to learn how to do a brake change.

Brake change is very easy. Just remember to always lube up the slide pins.

I'm going to be following this DIY: http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fourth-brakes/index.shtml (http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fourth-brakes/index.shtml)

However, I'm a little iffy on the caliper part. I've never seen one close up, so I don't know what exactly it means when to push the pistons out or whatever. Plus I don't know what the slide pins are, lol. Everyone has to start out somewhere, I guess. Once I get a good look after taking the tire off, I think I'll be fine.

Also, are there any torquing specifics on the bolts? The above DIY has some specs, but I don't know what specs it would be for 7th gens. Some things I need to get at this point is some lube (not sure what kind, maybe someone could clarify?), some of that anti-squeak for the shims, and an impact screwdriver.

Jeff, the DIY provided by the 4th gen Prelude is very similiar to that of our Accords. As for the pushing the pistons, I suggest using a piston depresser tool. That way you are depressing the caliper piston evenly. The lube you will need is a "silicone brake lube". The guide pins are in the pad bracket. They retract back and forth when the piston pushes the pads in and out when you brake. Before depressing the caliper piston, remove the master cylinder cap. More and likely, the brake fluid will overflow out of the master cylinder.

The tools you will need for changing out front brake pads on our Accords.

Ratchet (your choice of 3/8 or 1/2)
12mm socket (if using a ratchet) (caliper bolts)
17mm socket (if using a ratchet) (pad bracket bolts)
12mm wrench (if not using a ratchet)
17mm wrench (if not using a ratchet)
Impact Screwdriver (for taking off the rotor hold down screws)
Hammer (use with impact screwdriver)
Brake Cleaner
Silicone Brake Lube (for guide pins)
Anti Squeek Spray (optional) (to prevent brake squeek or squeel)
Caliper Piston Depresser Tool (to depress caliper piston)
Phillips Screwdriver (putting the hold down screws back on)
Plastic or Rubber Deadblow Hammer (if rotors are seized on the hub)

I believe that covers the tools needed for the front brakes.

Thanks a ton, Thien! I was just talking on the phone with my dad, and he was like "No! I'm helping you!" lol.
I'm feeling pretty confident about doing this. Wish me luck.

dang you beat me to it Jeff!! lol My pads still haven't arrive yet.

Mine are supposed to be here by the end of next week hopefully. I hate broad shipping estimate dates. I went with Akebono ProACT pads as well.

Got my rotor and oil filter today sooo heavy. Oil filter were 9.99 + free 2day shipping with prime or 6 bucks without. Rotors were ~46 + free 2day shipping with prime.

There the wrong size... OMG I posted it up in the FS if not I will call amazon and try to get them to pay for shipping the items back to them.. Freaken A

Oil filter or rotors?

Rotors.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2054 (http://elitecm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2054)

Yeah, that woulda been too much work.

Thien, there is a difference in the 6mt coupe and 6mt sedan too right?  do you have any way of finding out if the coupe calipers would fit the legend rotors?

There is a difference between the 6MT coupe and 6MT sedan. The 6MT coupe has a bigger rotor as stated before at 11.8 while the 6MT sedan has the same rotor as the 5AT V6 at 11.2. I wouldn't know if the coupe calipers would fit over the legend rotors. You might want to ask other members that have done the Legend GS caliper setup.

I believe these service limits should be in inches.  My service manual says 21mm or (0.83in.) as service limit for front discs.