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Author Topic: What did you do to your Gen7 today?  (Read 1881441 times)
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timot_one
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« Reply #6780 on: April 17, 2013, 12:39:35 AM »

There are benefits even with bolt ons.  If you have an aftermarket header with known flex pipe issues, less engine movement will be beneficial.  If you have wheel hop on hard acceleration, these can help.
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« Reply #6781 on: April 17, 2013, 01:06:02 AM »

Also, the TSX spindle hub is bolted on the spindle by 4 bolts. While as the Accord has a spindle shaft that hub is bolted onto by a giant nut.

would you know sir if i may use the stock accord sensor with the tsx spindle? or should i use the tsx one, if that is compatible?  Smiley

You probably could, but it is mounted differently between the two. The TSX mounts on side while the Accord is mounted on the back. There might be a problem with running an Accord sensor on a TSX spindle and vice versa. The car's ABS signal has a certain air gap. I'm not to sure if there is a difference between the air gap calibration between the two. Since, it is mounted differently, and ABS ring is different between the two. There could be a slight difference running either or. Since TCS/VSA runs off of ABS, it may or may not mess up the calibration on it. The Accord's sensor uses the side of the sensor to read the signal, while the TSX uses the tip to read the signal. There is no telling what will happen since you are first one to really do it.

May I ask why you are switching to a TSX knuckle? I know it is made of aluminum and is lighter, but the structal integrity is weaker then the Accord's cast iron. Its not much a weight reduction to switch. I know its reducing unpsrung weight, but you really don't need to unless you are road racing, track, or maybe even auto crossing.
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« Reply #6782 on: April 17, 2013, 08:01:19 AM »

hey Thien, i want to install these for weekend racing, specially since i have a standing wager (for better track lap time) with a friend who owns a Galant VR4. The premise is that no more power mods are allowed from our current setup. im not really inclined to strip the car's interior as this is daily driven, so im looking at every possible lightening mod which wouldn't break the bank. i have gotten the JDM rear calipers which are aluminum. front brakes are wilwoods. the rear spindle seems to be a good idea to take off some more weight and not be 'visible' to the untrained eye.

by the way this experimental mod will have to wait, i decided to rebuild the jdm rear calipers before putting them in. wanna do it right the first time around.
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« Reply #6783 on: April 17, 2013, 12:17:00 PM »

Took apart my '07 pristine OEM headlamps...gotta get her ready for when the new projectors deliver...little sad but I know good things are comin'! Grin





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« Reply #6784 on: April 17, 2013, 12:30:54 PM »

Spill the beans already fucker!
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« Reply #6785 on: April 17, 2013, 09:45:19 PM »

Got my all aluminum radiator looks great and tested it for leaks all is well but shipping (fedex) banged it up it appears might send it back for peace of mind and get a replacement  Embarrassed


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« Reply #6786 on: April 17, 2013, 10:29:48 PM »

^what brand is that and for what motor?
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« Reply #6787 on: April 17, 2013, 11:48:46 PM »

ugh, clemente that sucks. FedEx is usually one of the best shippers in terms of handling your stuff gently. I've had the worst experiences with UPS and being that I used to unload/sort for UPS when I was 17-18...I can vouch that they just throw your shit on the belt because if it is more than about 6" in between each package (label side UP!!!!) your manager is on you like flies on shit.

FedEx has a 6-way scan system on their belts and everything is computer driven with an automated sort system, so your package is basically lifted/set by human hands twice...once when unloading the truck and once when loading the new truck
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Ben

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« Reply #6788 on: April 17, 2013, 11:53:52 PM »

hey Thien, i want to install these for weekend racing, specially since i have a standing wager (for better track lap time) with a friend who owns a Galant VR4. The premise is that no more power mods are allowed from our current setup. im not really inclined to strip the car's interior as this is daily driven, so im looking at every possible lightening mod which wouldn't break the bank. i have gotten the JDM rear calipers which are aluminum. front brakes are wilwoods. the rear spindle seems to be a good idea to take off some more weight and not be 'visible' to the untrained eye.

by the way this experimental mod will have to wait, i decided to rebuild the jdm rear calipers before putting them in. wanna do it right the first time around.

What is your budget? If you want better track time, I suggest doing suspension adjustment and better tires. That for sure will reduce lap times by quite a bit.
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« Reply #6789 on: April 18, 2013, 01:12:56 AM »


What is your budget? If you want better track time, I suggest doing suspension adjustment and better tires. That for sure will reduce lap times by quite a bit.

i'm currently using Hankook Ventus R-S3 for the track. will be doing corner weights soon.

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« Reply #6790 on: April 18, 2013, 02:00:23 AM »

Oh ok. I highly suggest Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 or RE-11A. By far one of the best track tires I have driven on. I got chance to drive on a numerous amount of "track" tires. I say the RE-11 performed the best. RS3 does really good. The Azenis after a few laps starts to get greasey and lose traction. Direzza Star Specs are another tire I suggest as well.

I would start off with better tires, lighter wheels, and adjusting your suspension properly. Run more negative camber on the front then the rear. Adjust dampening to the correct output for your track.
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« Reply #6791 on: April 18, 2013, 03:15:32 AM »

Oh ok. I highly suggest Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 or RE-11A. By far one of the best track tires I have driven on. I got chance to drive on a numerous amount of "track" tires. I say the RE-11 performed the best. RS3 does really good. The Azenis after a few laps starts to get greasey and lose traction. Direzza Star Specs are another tire I suggest as well.

I would start off with better tires, lighter wheels, and adjusting your suspension properly. Run more negative camber on the front then the rear. Adjust dampening to the correct output for your track.
I would be interested to see the following alignment setup on an Accord..

R: -1/8" toe, -1.8 camber, stock caster
F: 0 toe, -2.5 camber, stock caster

I agree with Thien on the RE-11 suggestion.  I have heard that the Star Spec II is not as good as the original.  I absolutely hated my Azenis RT-615 when I had them, but I also have not tried the RT-615K.
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« Reply #6792 on: April 18, 2013, 05:18:07 AM »

^what brand is that and for what motor?

its a Silla 736AA for a v6
ugh, clemente that sucks. FedEx is usually one of the best shippers in terms of handling your stuff gently. I've had the worst experiences with UPS and being that I used to unload/sort for UPS when I was 17-18...I can vouch that they just throw your shit on the belt because if it is more than about 6" in between each package (label side UP!!!!) your manager is on you like flies on shit.

FedEx has a 6-way scan system on their belts and everything is computer driven with an automated sort system, so your package is basically lifted/set by human hands twice...once when unloading the truck and once when loading the new truck

yeah i know thats why am upset , cant win them all i guess
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« Reply #6793 on: April 18, 2013, 06:38:45 AM »

right now i have the following suspension settings:

F: -1.3deg camber, 0 toe (maxxed out the ingalls camber kit)
R: -2deg camber, 0 toe

before this i have -1.0deg camber at the back, half of the RS3 tread wasn't even used! this time around it was perfect for the track conditions Smiley
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-- Charles --

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« Reply #6794 on: April 18, 2013, 10:22:31 AM »

Changin out my mounts right now and there's a ground wire going to tye PS mount but there's no spot for it on the innovative mount... any ideas where to relocate?
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-Ryan


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