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So my mechanic at work has been trying to convince me to go with the JRSC for the RSX-s for a while now.  He took it upon himself yesterday to make some calls and found out that it should yield 110whp and I think 120tq. He said also he was on the Hondata forums and some other stuff. The only thing is he said I would need to get the RSX ecu with Hondata and I guess flash it with the specs of the K24. I was also told to contact Brian at Hasport for the details on the other things that need to change. Sorry for the half ass explanation but I was barely listening yesterday when he told me all of this over the phone.  I've got a lil knowledge when it comes to this stuff but definitely still learning. With that said someone please drop the knowledge bomb and help me fill in the holes so that I can see if this is even worth the time and money. Oh and Paul I still have plans for what we talked about but I've pushed that back a lil farther than next year and I figure when we do go the swapping route I can sell of the supercharger pretty easy so I'm worried about wasting money cuz I always figure out a way to get it back.

If you're going to be doing some eventual other "swapping" I would suggest don't waste your time on something that isn't proven whatsoever. Going from firsthand experience, when your trying something thats never been done, expect tons of headaches and problems. I did tons and tons and tons of research, preparation, you name it, and was still left with unexpected problems and mixups on my build. If you intend on going with the turbocharger route or something else, then just wait and research that or save up your money for it to build something nicer. To add to the fact, the "flashing" of the ECU doesn't seem like it will work. There are premade k24 baselines tunes on the Kpro packages, but thats it, just baselines.

Just like Mike said, if you're going to do a swap it's better to wait.  You will basically be doing twice as much work, costing you more money in the long run.  I am going to mirror Skippy's advice by saying this.  Figure out what goals you have and what you want the end result will be, then start working towards that goal.  IMHO, buying a SC before you build a n/a motor, is putting the cart before the horse.  You will just end up wasting money.

You can use a RSX-S JRSC, but you're going to need an adapter that I think Hasport sells, so contacting Brian over there is a good move.  I've talked to Cham about using a K20 SC and it will work with the adapter.  If you're going to be getting an RSX-S ECU, get KPro.

What are your goals with building the motor anyway?  We really haven't talked much about that, but I'd be interested in finding out what you have planned.

Thanks for the advice guys. My goal is to be somewhere in the range of 250-300 to the wheels. I'm not gonna be like everybody else and say that I want to hit that mark and not lose any reliability or functionality.  That's why I plan to get this stuff going once the car is payed off next May because we already have another DD and Ashley plans to get something else once she's payed it off.  This is basically gonna be my project car. I'm not really gonna track it and I wouldnt mind it being in shows, I just want something with a good amount of grunt that will shock the hell out of most people.  I'm kinda leaning away from the sway because that's a lot of work and time for power that I just dont really need but I am about 80% sure that I wanna swap the tranny in a years time because I hate the auto. The SC I think may be my best option at the moment due to supposed better reliability than the turbo and also by keeping it a 4 banger I'll still have somewhat of an advantage regarding fuel economy.  What kind of prep would I have to do for the SC? Is it like the turbo and you have to build up the internals or can you just straight to bolting on? As far the ECu thing I may have explained it wrong because like I said I was half way listening when he crammed all this down my throat in like a 2 minute time span. LOL!

I haven't built up any of my internals (if you put pistons, rods, valvetrain into that category) at all and I've been running the turbo for over a year now with only minor problems in reality. The downpipe broke because of the increased engine movement during shifts, installing three simple metal rods connecting the engine better to the car fixed that problem. I broke the springs in my clutch, but that can be attributed to a hundred different things. So to answer the turbo question, no it is not necessary to build up any internals unless you start going crazy. Just to note, I've run at least 300whp reliably.

Coo Coo, sounds good Mike. So did you get everything worked out with that shop that dicked you over? Or did you find out that what they said was actually the truth?

With the TSX SC, you won't need an adapter.  With the RSX-S SC, you'll need an adapter plate or gasket.  Cham knows who makes the adapter that you need for the RSX-S JRSC.  Engine management is a must and you should not run any kind of FI without it.  K Pro is best.

Yeah I was looking at the one for the TSX the other day.  I was highly dissapointed though when I noticed it only yields a 40-60 hp gain. I dont know if that's that the wheels or not but even so that's very minimal for the cost unless there's something I'm missing. So I'm thinking more in the realm of going with the head sway and then SC!

You'll definitely make more power with a head swap and a SC.  I'm sure if you do your research and build your motor right, you can make some repsectable numbers and retain reliability.

you might wanna look into this http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/product-de ... oductId=43 (http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/product-details-promo.php?productId=43)

here's a dyno on a k-series [most likely a built k20]

http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/kw-dyno.php?productId=43 (http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/kw-dyno.php?productId=43)

on a stock motor you'd have the problem of too much power towards the redline. But notice the torque curve. Impressive I'd say.

you'd till need [I'd at least highly recommend] an intercooler and piping, BOV, EMS, and a stronger clutch.

anyways, that's what I had planned til I wrecked and possibly totaled the car on saturday.

good luck with the build!!!

Nothing beat displacement Derrick..... NA builds already at 300WHP with great reliability....

The only problem with the Kraftwerks SC is that you lose your AC.  Most of us aren't willing to lose that comfort in a DD.  If it was a track car that I was building, I'd be all over that though.

Paul, I'm sure that a well built n/a K24 can achieve the 300 hp mark too.  I think a bump in displacement would help too though.  I've always wanted to get the Brian Crower 2.6l stroker kit.

I have seen a 300WHP K, it was a 2.7L stroker/bored with 13.5:1 compression with ITBs and standalone EMS and could only run race gas, it barely broke 300....

What kind of head and cams was he running?

This is a old thread.  I'm still planning on what you and I've talked about. Jus waitin til the car is paid off and in my possession. Once mine is done you can play with Ashley's RL. She's already given you permission after she saw what I did to one in a Speed 3 last week. LOL!!!!

yea to be honest I was thinkin,Back from the dead?! Almost a year ago!

and as for the Kraftwerks kit, couldnt you just get the general rotrex kit and delete the P/S instead? I mean if somethings gotta go Id rather work without that than A/C, Ive seen a lot of k20 guys do it on a JRSC and isnt too bad.

I totally agree with you. No P/S is better then no A/C. In cali it hit 110+ over the summer. I was wondering if you take out the P/S can you somehow adapt the EP3 electical p/s or the CRV P/S?

Anyways I how someone figures it out. I really like that kit also.

Umm,... not sure the Ep3 has electric P/S but I figure your prolly right since the JRSC system is different from the DC2s and I never really look at em,.. either way Id go with the Rotrex kit anyday over the JRSC,.. it builds boost quicker and cools oil and boost,... very tempting,.. maybe this'll be on a build in the future

The  AP1 and AP2 both have electric power steering as well as the 4th gen TL.

soooo does anyone know how to adapt the electric power steering? ? Anyways for the rotrex i know a show that love to do custom fab work. I am pretty sure it can work with enough money and time spent on it.

Something I put in my profile but wanted to share it with those here

(http://www.supercharger.com/graphics/products/zoom/989-300Racedyno.jpg)
JRSC Race kit EP3 (4" pulley) which wears a similar Cylinder Head to our k24s.

(http://www.supercharger.com/SiteGraphics/Charts/RSX_S_street_SC.jpg)
This is a dyno from a JRSC Street kit off of a DC5 (RSX) although it has a different head I posted this to show the differences with the manifolds on different engines. Note: This is the lower grade Power Card tuned kit from JR with a larger pulley, the Race kit (bigger injectors, pulley and Hondata Reflash) makes about 270whp, not sure of boost levels.

(http://www.hondata.com/images/dyno1-k24-jrsc-crx-vs-rsx.gif)
k24a4 w/ JRSC @ 11psi tuned by Hondata. I believe its outfitted with I/H/E, not 100% sure but they did mention using a CAI over a SRI so yea. And there's no aftercooler, and apparently clubrsxers have picked up 20whp using one.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=206166&highlight=k24+supercharged

So 270+ whp @11psi, no extra cooling not bad for a weak 2 lobe Vtec Head, not sure what pulley size theyre using on this tho.

So my Stg 3 goals 290-300 whp are very realistic

Pertaining to aftercooler I found this thread, theres a lot more but this is just beautiful!
k20a2/z1 9.3:1 CR w/CP Pistons
JRSC @ 13psi w/AC running 100 octane

(http://www.intrinsicperformance.com/images/cams/IPS-Ksc-13psi-JRSC-Aftercooled-2045cc.jpg)
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=394382&highlight=k24+supercharged

Thoughts?

Questions?

So  the RSX got a 50WHP gain, what is your current WHP?

RSX got a 50whp gain with its smaller CP and making about 5psi of boost with all applicable bolt ons(which I have) and I think Derrick said he was making 150whp when he got dynoed a couple of months ago and we have the same setup almost identically, I just have Ralcos and he has Unorthodox's and I have an Ingalls ETD, oh and obviously hes AT and Im MT soooo,.. yea about 150whp, and an additional 1-2 psi of boost so about 6-7? Oh and a Big difference the DC5 was tuned with Powercard, which is kind of a shooty load based tuning box, not the best. Estimates Paul!?

240-260WHP

Yeah I dynoed at like 145 but dont forget stock vs stock the 06-07's have an extra like 5-7hp to the crank. So I would say if you dynoed having all the same stuff I have besides the obvious difference in tranny and given your 5-7 extra hp you'd probably be at 155-160.

Also D don't forget about the 10% more he gets to the wheels due to AT vs MT.

Well,... I heard the biggest difference in the 7 and 7.5gen k24s was the intake manifold design and since those have been deleted anyways I omitted my info from my predictions. Although thinking my car NA is making roughly 165whp (more than a RSX-S) is quite intriguing! On another note Ive raced my buddy in an AT TSX and beaten em hands down when he was paddle shifting. Thought he was just babying his car tho

Yeah I was factoring that but didn't know the percentage so just guesstimated.

Typical power train loss...

MT= 15%
AT= 25%

Paul, does that percentage reflect only HP power train loss? or does that Percentage also reflect on TQ power train loss also?

Both HP and TQ "usually", although it seems that the V6 AT is not affected nearly as much on the TQ number vs MT.

Hmmm,.. thats weird, does the AT V6 have more TQ or just the TQ #s arent as low as expected? and I thought it was around a 20% loss through transmission on a stock clutch,.. I know this is one of those #s thats been debated forever tho

Like I said, that's "Typical" not necessarily actual for a individual vehicle. As far as AT #s, the TQ seems to be all over the ball park and is un-reliable, LOL, I had a J35 report back at 290WTQ and only 236WHP, ATs are just real hard to get good numbers from.

Alright! Tomorrow's the day it all gets started

Parts list so far for Stg 1:

RSX-S JRSC Kit
4" Pulley (6-7 psi)
Precision 525cc Injectors
Precision Clips
AEM F/IC
Boomslang Harness
AEM UEGO Gauge
AEM 35 psi Boost Gauge
k20 Intake Manifold Gasket
Powder Coating Valve Cover and Custom CAI Solar Rain (nothing flashy)

The plan:
Drop the car off at 10am at NVA-AV6s on 4.29, pick up around 9am on 5.1, drop off at Ptuning at 10am, hopefully pick car up by noon from Ptuning on 5.2 and the fun begins

The Goal:
240-260whp

Bryan, you're missing a few things here.  Since you have a K24A8 and you're using a SC for a RSX Type S, you are going to need the Hasport K Series Intake Adapter (http://jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=9&idproduct=2062).  When you use this adapter, you will also need to have 2 intake gaskets, one for the K20 and one for the K24.  I'm anxious to see the pics of your custom CAI though.  Also, the Accord TB will not bolt on to JRSC for a RSX Type S.  You will need a RSX Type S TB since the bolt pattern is different.  There are no adapters for a Accord TB to bolt on to a RSX Type S IM.  Karcepts makes the reverse of this (RSX Type S TB to an Accord IM), so they may be able to custom machine you the adapter you may need for your Accord TB.

No Tim, Im not missing that Im gonna have Paul tap and drill the block for AN fittings. The Hasport Adapter leaks from what Ive heard anyways. As for the TB its covered, keeping $$$ in the Squad. Hence Paul's got it covered

Just updated my post about the TB's also.

Tap the block for -AN fittings?????

I just breezed through the supercharger installation instructions and I see no mention of running any kind of lines to the block...

I'm just going to sit back and watch this one...Things are going on that even I don't fully understand.

If Paul is on this one I see no problems happening with the install...but if he needs my help I'll be ready and willing.

Just took this info from ClubRSX's Supercharger forum

OK, as we seem to have some issues on the subject, though I would start a thread on it...

As far as I know, the ones out there are:


K20A=5.115" dia.
K20A2=5.465" dia.
K24=5.980" dia.
08-09 K24 = 6.37"

Now, I am assuming (somebody want to confirm?) that the Z1 is the same as a K20A at 5.115"?

giving:


K20A Pulley
4.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.279/1 ratio
3.4"dia. SC Pulley=1.504/1 ratio
3.2"dia. SC Pulley=1.598/1 ratio
3.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.705/1 ratio


K20A2 Pulley
4.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.366/1 ratio
3.4"dia. SC Pulley=1.607/1 ratio
3.3"dia. SC Pulley=1.653/1 ratio
3.2"dia. SC Pulley=1.708/1 ratio
3.15" SC Pulley=1.735/1 ratio
3.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.822/1 ratio
2.6"dia. SC Pulley=2.102/1 ratio



K24 Pulley
4.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.495/1 ratio
3.7"dia. SC Pulley=1.591/1 ratio
3.6"dia. SC Pulley=1.661/1 ratio
3.5"dia. SC Pulley=1.683/1 ratio
3.4"dia. SC Pulley=1.759/1 ratio
3.3"dia. SC Pulley=1.812/1 ratio
3.2"dia. SC Pulley=1.869/1 ratio
3.1"dia. SC Pulley=1.929/1 ratio
3.0"dia. SC Pulley=1.993/1 ratio
2.9"dia. SC Pulley=2.062/1 ratio
2.6"dia. SC Pulley=2.300/1 ratio



08-09 K24 Pulley
3.5"dia. SC Pulley=1.820/1 ratio
3.4"dia. SC Pulley=1.873/1 ratio
3.3"dia. SC Pulley=1.930/1 ratio
3.2"dia. SC Pulley=1.990/1 ratio
3.1"dia. SC Pulley=2.055/1 ratio
3.0"dia. SC Pulley=2.123/1 ratio
2.9"dia. SC Pulley=2.196/1 ratio
2.6"dia. SC Pulley=2.450/1 ratio


Side note, these ratios are the Eaton M62s RPM to your cranks RPM. Ive heard from reliable sources, the M62 maxes out around 14000 RPMs.

(http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128484.gif)

Still trying to understand every variable in this graph and need to understand the Inlet volume flow for our K heads, if anyone could post that information itd be very helpful

Ummm.  That showed up outta nowhere.