EliteCM.net

I figured I should start a separate thread since I am starting to do the work for the audio now.

Here's what I have:

Alpine 9886
PAC SWI-JACK
Lower-cubby kit with Y-cable

Infinity 60.9cs (Front)
Speaker brackets

Infinity 692.9i (Rear)

Infinity 475a (Amplifier)

0/1 AWG Wire
4 AWG Wire

To get:
0/1 AWG to 4 AWG  Distribution Blocks (2)
RCA Wire (2 more, have 1)

Plan:
Run power wire along the drivers side of the car.
Run Speaker wire along the right side of the car.
Run RCA's (3 sets) along the right side of car or down the middle.
Situate Amp somewhere neatly in the trunk, but still want to be able to fold the seats down and place things.
Run power wire 0AWG into a distribution block (in case I add a second amp for a subwoofer), and also run the amp grounds into another block then to chassis.


Completed
Installed rear speakers - screw holes would not align properly so it is only held in by 2 screws each rather than 4 each.

Removed a ton of panels.

Routed speaker wire around the car (except not through the back seats yet).
Routed 0/1 AWG wire through the side (but not through firewall or back seat yet).

Questions:
Which connector on the Accord (Navigation) is the 20 pin connector that the SWI-JACK instructions reference? This is the one I am to tap so that I get my steering wheel connections working on the deck.

My speaker brackets didn't work, I got "American International" ones and they ended up being too small for the 6.5" speakers.

Anyone who has mounted front tweeters into the stock location, what did you do (or did you do anything), about the fact that the oem tweeter grill has a much tinier hole than an aftermarket tweeter.

How do I remove the panels just near the fuse box, and just under the glove box? SOLVED

bump for the questions

I dremelled the old speaker bracket down so that my new tweeter can sit below the tweeter grill. But the hole doesn't completely line up with the tweeter below it. Do you think this would be bad for the sound output?

It is about 1/4 " off center

My speaker brackets didn't work, I got "American International" ones and they ended up being too small for the 6.5" speakers.

For that, just go to crutchfield.com and order some brackets. The rest of your question Tim can answer I bet.

Do I even need brackets to install the larger speakers?

I just used the metal spacers that were included with my speakers. I think I had to enlarge the opening slightly too, but i can't remember for sure. I drilled holes in the door for the tweeters though.

Question about ground block:

Do I do this?

ground wires --> block --> another wire --> ground point (placed on sanded down part of chassis)

OR

ground wires --> block (placed on sanded down part of chassis w/o plastic cover)

If it's a ground distribution block, you ground it with a wire.

I have not bought anything for my ground yet.

I was just referring to a regular distribution block

Well Now I got really confused about fuses!

my power side of things is

0AWG wire

battery ----- fuse holder ----------- distro block -------- amp (70A fused)
                                                (0awg to 4awg)


Should my line from the distribution block to the amp be fused seperately?

What size fuse should go right at the battery?

You should get a fused distribution block.  If you want to know what size fuse you should get for your battery, you should find out what the total current draw of ALL your amplifiers will be.

So that would be 70A since I only have one at the moment.

I will upgrade to a fused distribution block whenever I add my second amp and move my old block as a ground block

You have a distribution block for one amp?  Why?

because its very likely that I will add a second amp for a subwoofer in the near future. Also the amp does not accept 0AWG directly, it accepts 4AWG

(http://audioseek.net/~hiryu/4chan/picard-expression.jpeg)

Thanks!

All I have left to do now is install the deck and front speakers

Deck installed, SWI-JACK installed also

Everything is installed, but now I have problems:

Everything is far too quiet, even if you select the amplifier to maximum gain, you can only hear audio at volumes over 75%~100%.

I am getting engine noise in the speakers:
I ran the RCA wires down the middle (under the carpet over the hump) and the power wire on the driver side of the car.
The Speaker wires pass over the power wire right before the amp.
I grounded the amp with the fuel sensor/gauge ground

One woofer doesn't seem to fire but I will double check that woofer's connections.


Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?

Here are some pics that might help understand:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2476/3852975663_7f48e8c99d_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3431/3852971423_f81181dced_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3440/3853759612_b8518cd064_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/3852968911_e08aca7aed_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2460/3852967653_9b55cb396f_b.jpg)

After some checking, the noise is definitely related to the RCA cables!

I tested the amp with my ipod as the input for F and it sounded fine no noise whether the car was on or off. Tested similarly for R and also same results.

Something about the output from the deck to the amp is messed

Also another note,

When I grounded the deck, I did not ground it to chassis, I grounded it to the OEM harness ground wire

Solved the problems. The external on the bottom of the deck that control internal amp. I set that to external amp long ago because of course I am using an external amp.

Well well, I change that to NORMAL and every issue I had went away. The grounding was NOT the issue!

On a sidenote my left woofer that was not working, is DOA (tested it on either crossover and it didn't fire at all). So now I have to either buy a full new Infinity 60.9CS with components :S, or try to get warranty service, or look for a single woofer somewhere.

So now my install is complete!

I am going to add a subwoofer now! ordering it soon

which sub are you going to order?

getting kappa 124.7 if I can find it in stock
getting referecnce 1300a to match my other amp also

I guess I am an infinity enthusiast now  

To each his own!

I've had Infinity in the home long before I put it in my car, I guess thats where I got my bias from

I picked up the stuff on Saturday from Niagara Falls

installed sub to the box, mounted amp to the box too

Now I just have to rework my wiring a little bit before I install it into the car

No fucking way!  I was in Niagara Falls on Sunday.

OMG tim is trackin me down!   Sunday the place isn't open and I had Eid celebration so I was in Burlington all day!

I actually had more trouble getting into the states this time than last.

First time (June) I took Lewingston bridge and there was a big lineup, but I got in no problems.

Second time (last Saturday) they questioned me a few times. Searched my car while I was still in it. Then asked me stuff about my father (he was born and grew up in Pakistan, but Canadian for over 25 years).
Then they took me to the side I had to leave my car as it got molested by large men with gloves. They took me to the "secure" room for further questioning about my father, my work/school, and why I am driving my parents car. It was not a pleasant experience... they thought I was lying because their system didn't have my entry in June on record.

I guess next time I should shave, or have someone with me. The guys didn't even close my hood, which I only realized when I got home :S

I've been thorough that, and it sucks. I got pulled in because I travel so frequently.

I sometimes get searched when I cross the border.  Funny thing is that I'm a citizen of both countries.  I'm also a convicted felon, so that can make things difficult.  Back on topic though.  How's the install going?

The install was going smoothly and I was about to test my sub..

I was installing the fuse on the main power line and I saw a spark so I didn't connect it

I think there is a short somewhere... how would I find it?

phones power was dying so here are some terrible pics

ground block on the left, power block on the right (with fuses)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/3955697505_bc9bb869ba_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2480/3955696817_4eb106cd13.jpg)

subwoofer amp wired
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2577/3955697289_9216f7d75a_b.jpg)

main power wire fuse holder
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2614/3955697037_8b6d984cb2_b.jpg)

4way amp wired
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3461/3956474600_e4aa5d1e44.jpg)

overview
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2618/3955696407_2d4341d7fc.jpg)

note all the wires do go to the right blocks... what is interesting is infinity placed 12V and GND on different sides on the two amps


heres the order i installed it,

removed old main power fuse, removed -ve cable on battery
dismantled old power distribution, placed new blocks in new spots. put the fuses into the fused block, wired up that block to 4way amp, wired ground block to 4way amp, wired ground to fuel sensor ground (same place I grounded before)

then I added the wiring to the blocks for the subwoofer amp and replaced the -ve cable to battery
and then I added the fuse back (150A this time) and i saw a spark so I pulled back!

Should I have installed the fuse BEFORE putting the -ve cable back on?

Yes.  Here's what I usually do.  I disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery (you can disconnect the positive battery terminal if you'd like), then make all my connections and install all fuses, after that I reconnect the positive and then the negative battery terminal.  If you have any current draw (like an interior light on), there will be a spark when connecting the ground terminal.

I will try that out tomorrow morning and see how it goes.

I owe you a beer Tim... your tip worked.

Its all finished!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2476/3958586189_f6a8d786a9_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2491/3959359776_d2664fc06d_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3958585519_a06bd212ed_b.jpg)

Thanks for the offer.  I'm glad things worked out for you.  I knew it would work.

I get a pop noise everytime I turn on/off the system or change tracks (from the subwoofer), any ideas?

You should use a relay for your remote turn on for your amps.  You're getting turn on/off thump because the output your remote turn on wire is probably too low to trigger both amps.  The fact that you're getting a pop when you change tracks may be something that has been generated by your head unit's audio output.  Take care of the turn on/of thump first and then we'll worry about the fact that you're getting a pop when you change tracks.

Here's what you do for the relay.  Get a SPST or SPDT Bosch or P&B/Siemens relay.  Wire terminal 85 to ground, terminal 86 to the remote turn on from your receiver, terminal 78 to 12 volts, and terminal 30 to your amps.  That will fix your turn on/off thump.

I wasn't too explicit:

The turn on pop is fairly mute and negligible.

The turn off pop is the same as the 0-1, 1-0 volume pops and track changes, quite loud distinct thump as you describe.

The turn on wire was a single one to the first amp then a second small wire going from the first amp to the second.

For the relay, can I simply tap to the 12V and ground on a given amp or take it from the distribution blocks?

Take power and ground from your distribution blocks.  If you planned your audio system properly, you should have an extra terminal on both for power and ground.  The way you have it wired may work, but is by no means the proper way of doing it.  If your head unit remote turn on wire has an output of 150 mA, and both of your amps require 100 mA each, you will have a problem.  Using a relay will also give you a few millisecond delay from when you turn your head unit on to when your amps turn on, getting rid of that annoying pop.  As far as the tracks changing, that's something else.  What kind of head unit are you running?

Alpine 9886 is the HU

Unfortunately, the owners manual for your amps do not list what the required current draw is for the remote turn on.  Call Infinity tomorrow and ask them.  Most head units only put out about 200 mA on the remote turn on wire, which is enough to turn on one amp (usually made by the same manufacturer) or trigger a relay.  Either way, I still stand by my recommendation for you to add a relay to your remote turn on set up.  If you need a wiring diagram, I can whip one up for you in a little while.

Do you have any specific model numbers for the relays?

Is the E5100 or E5000 the right kind?

As long as it's a Bosch type relay, you're going to be okay.  I believe Metra makes them.  Crutchfield has them here (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120E5000/Metra-E5000.html?tp=153),

I am going to check locally for one. If not I will buy it off crutchfieldcanada since they carry it

Does the relay draw power even when the car is off? Or does it only draw power when the turn on signal has been achieved from the deck?

A relay is an electromechanical switch that will complete a circuit only when your head unit is on.  Think of it as just a regular swtich, but instead of pushing a button or flipping a switch, you apply current to it to switch it on or off.

Read This (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay)

Could it be possible that I am clipping the amp?

The gain was set to maximum always with the deck sub level at 9/15 for the most part

I did try it with gain much lower and deck sub level 15/15 and it didn't change the noise.

I am buying that relay from crutchfield now since my local stores close by the time im finished work

No, that is not the symptoms of clipping your amp.  For the record, the input gain is not a volume knob.  You need to match the gain (input sensitivity) to the output of your amplifier, otherwise it will clip.  If it's not loud enough, get a more powerful amplifier, better speakers, and a properly designed enclosure.