New Product Tryout: P21S New Carnauba

[RTexasF]

P21S New Carnauba

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Product Name - P21S 100% Carnauba Wax
Price - $55 shipped
Size - 6.2 oz
Amount used during application - Can't tell any is missing!
Dilution ratios - N/A
Label appearance - Wouldn't jump out at you on a shelf
Directions or Application process - Done by hand
Ease of use - So easy RTexasF can do it
Smell / Scent - none
Consistency - medium hard paste
Cleaning Ability - none
Lubricity - N/A
Suds N/A
PH N/A
Durability - unknown at this point
Pros - ease of use, looks
Cons - draws dust not anti static, not a very slick feel even after 24 hours, much better after 36
Overall Comments - Uber easy to apply and remove, remarkable appearance
Rating 1-5 (5 being the best) 4.7

First off let me explain that I almost exclusively use sealants but decided to try a new "topper" just for the sake of change.

Nothing special was done as these cars are essentially garage queens. We only need to buy gas once a month so that will give you a clue. Both had several coats of Opti Seal already and were wiped down with Poorboy's Spray & Wipe prior to the new carnauba.

As with the previous generation P21S application and removal was a pleasure. It was applied with the supplied foam pad which is brilliant in itself. These should be sold seperately for all to enjoy. It's one of those "why didn't I think of that?" things. Unlike the original formula they suggest that this one sets up or begins to set up prior to removal. It is also suggested to wait 24 hours before a second coat. I used DFT towels for removal.

Honestly I had forgotton how nice a real carnauba paste wax could look! It added to the already very nice look and took it up a notch or maybe even two. Reflections gained depth and clarity even beyond what I had expected.

Initially the feel is not very slick which disappointed me. I checked again after 24 hours and it the slickness had increased. After 36 hours both cars were very slick and the one that had spent a few hours in the sun was the slickest. Perhaps the heat (we are way south) helped it cure more so than the Honda which hasn't left the garage yet.

I can only find one negative and it is minor. The surface does seem to draw dust, at least during the cure period. If there was a way (and this is REALLY picky) to make it anti static I would add the .3 to give it a 5.0.

Here's a few pics to scope out. No sun shots which I apologize for. The situation was this:
First I mowed, trimmed, weedeated, and blew off the walks/porches/etc., at the house. It is not a small yard. Then I did both vehicles with S&W, waxed them and did the wipedown. It was 93, humid, and this old man was WHIPPED kiddos! I had no desire to plop my sweaty arse in the cars to back them out for sun shots. The shower beckoned me.....I believe I was still sweating while in the shower and it was a cold one at that..

What looks like a "scrape" on the bump strip of the red car door is actually a wheel reflection. I especially liked the fifth picture because the yellow cart hanging on the wall can be seen in both hoods. None of the pictures were modified. What you see is what I clicked, faults and all.













Last edited by RTexasF : 04-23-2008 at 08:13 PM.

[timot_one]

Beautiful results.  I really appreciate your reviews on detailing products.  I'd love to see a list of what you are currently using on your cars.

[RTexasF]

That list can change weekly!

[timot_one]

Hahaha.  Well, I'd like to know the tried and true stuff that you always use.

[RTexasF]

Okay here's a list for this week    :
Duragloss car wash
Amazing Roll Off for wheels, tires, wheelwells
Duragloss #105 for paint/exterior windows (bottle says polish but it's a sealant)
P21S New Carnauba Wax
Stoner's More Shine for tires, wheel wells

For a quick spiff:
Wet Paint or Poorboy's Spray & Wipe
Aquawax or Finish Kare #425 wipedown for bling

[Abailey4]

Yeah we need to catch up cuz we havent even bought the Wet Paint yet. Rick so do you get a weekly detailers catalog or something!? Where the hell do you find all of this stuff?

[RTexasF]

I'm on four or five detailing forums so I do a lot of reading. Many folks on those forums test products and give reviews. When many of the senior members have a positive reaction to a product then I'll consider ordering it if I'm in need of whtever features it offers. I also do my own testing and mixing of some components to see if they will work better when blended together.  In fact I need to clean a bunch of stuff out and may have a sale thread eventually. In seven years I've ended up with a whole lot of different products.

EDIT------

Derrick,

To keep things simple and still reap outstanding results I would still recommend the Wet Paint.

[Heckler]

Wow, great results.  I really wish I had the time, money and experience to do stuff like this because my black car has been looking terrible lately.

[RTexasF]

It's easier than you think and doesn't require a fortune in investments.

[Mike]

Rick I know you have done this before but, can you list out your detail "process". Maybe the steps you go through in order with the products that you use?

[RTexasF]

It is too involved to post here and most folks do not have the correct equipment or chemicals to do the job. I suggest you frequent some of the detailing forums like Autopia,
Detail City, or Autogeek to get into it. Meguiar's also has a forum and offers many "how to" videos. Seek and Ye shall find. It is far too complex to just post a process and expect anyone to figure out what I am talking about.

[RTexasF]

Here's an easy way to tell if you need to clay the car. Once you have it clean and as slick as you can get it lightly run your fingers across various surfaces. If you feel ANY texture through the tips of your fingers it needs to be clayed. Some recommend that you put a plastic sandwich bag on your hand first prior to "feeling" the paint. In all honesty this doesn't work for me, I use a light touch and my fingertips. Use what works for you. Once again.......If you feel ANYTHING less than "teflon snot" slick, go buy the clay and use it. Many, many videos on how to do this. It's not rocket science at all. Do some googling to watch it in action, there's really nothing to it. You MUST be thorough, half assing don't cut it on this step.

You can clay (let's say) the right front part of the hood but not the fender connected to it. The hood will be squeaky clean, using the finger test. It may actually squeak like a clean dish. The accompanying fender may feel smoother but the FEELING through your fingers (tiny bumps) tells you that it is not clean. I don't know a better way to offer more information on using clay.

[Blackhawk]

If Scott is the clean engine bay whore, then Rick is the clean exterior whore

Thanks for sharing your results on these newly tried products, Rick.

[Deep Gloss]

Thisis a great product, I have it and use it frequently..

Looking good bud!

[RTexasF]

Thisis a great product, I have it and use it frequently..

Looking good bud!

Thanks Amigo! It doesn't hold up like Collinite does but it's sure easier to work with.