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HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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CrackerTeg
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HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
on:
February 04, 2011, 02:27:38 AM »
A little edjumacation for the newbs here: lighting is measured in lumens. The brighter a light, the higher the lumens. For example:
Color temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher color temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The color temperature only determines the color but not the brightness of the HID light. The Color Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the color of the light output. Typically, the higher the color temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours.
also
The higher the Kelvin, the less light output you get (lumens).
With that said, anything over 6000K is basically a waste.
So, what is the best bulb? IMO the 4300K is the best, as it has the highest light output. The problem, though, is that they have a yellow-ish tinge to them that some people find un-attractive. In that case, 5000-6000k is a better choice for you..... as they have a more blue look to them.
A colorful chart:
A little more info:
And a comparison of Kelvin to lumens;
Standard OEM halogen 55W 9006(HB4) = 1100lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
4300k D2R Philips = 2800lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 2400lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4300k D2R Philips = 2000lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4800k D4S/R (brand) = 3800 (lumens) ** brightest in the market
5800k D4S/R (brand) = 3300 (lumens)
7000k D2S other = 1790lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
7000k D2R other = 1390lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2R other = 780lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.
One should point out that although light output drops off after 8000k, the fact that the light is in the blue-purple spectrum, it still puts a major strain on the eyes of others.
I got this info from a few different sources so I can't take the credit for it. This is just scratching the surface but serves its purpose.
HIDPlanet
has tons of information and its great education for those that are new to the HID game or completely oblivious to the fact that their PnP kits are crap. Comments are welcome.
«
Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 11:32:06 AM by timot_one
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Re: HID edjumacation for the uninformed/ newbs
«
Reply #1 on:
February 04, 2011, 08:15:28 AM »
here is more info on bulbs and bulb temps
Quote from: PedroDaGr8;296214
About this thread:
The goal of this thread is to provide a convenient location to research ANYTHING you can think of about HID bulbs. Everything will be discussed from comparing the different bulb types to their construction to the differences between OEM and kit bulbs. The first section deals with the various OEM bulbs. If you do not care about this, skip on down to the next section to learn more about the bulbs themselves.
What are the different OEM bulbs and how are they different?
Philips Bulbs
Model:
85122
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3200 Lumens
Details:
Philips standard bulb. It starts at 4300K but after around 100hrs or so it color shifts (turns bluer) to around 5000K.
Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with permission)
Model:
85122 +
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3400 Lumens
Details:
Starts at 4300K just like the 85122, but STAYS at 4300K and does not color shift. This bulb remains yellower than a color shifted bulb. Note: some ebay sellers mention Limited Edition bulbs or that 85122+ are 5000K. BOTH of these statements are lies. First, there is NO LE bulb. Second, as I mentioned these bulbs start at 4300K and stay there.
Image Copyright 2009 rondy_ (Used with permission)
Both the 85122+ and 85122 are similar in brightness. There is a difference of around 200lumens max between the two, which is not a noticeable difference. So the choice of bulb should be based more on which color you prefer. Older adults tend to prefer yellower colors, while younger adults tend to prefer bluer colors.
Model:
85122 CM
Color Temp:
5000K
Output:
3100 Lumens
Details:
A bulb designed to allow a person to replace a single burnt out bulb and match the color of already color shifted bulbs. So it starts and stays at 5000K
Model:
85122 CX
Color Temp:
5000K
Output:
3100 Lumens
Details:
This bulb is also known as the Philips Crystal Vision. It is the highest color temperature Philips makes that is DOT approved. This bulb is considered the replacement for the 85122CM. As they now have a bulb that doesn't color shift, denoting one a color match makes little marketing sense. It is unknown if there are any differences between 85122CM and 85122CX. The bulb is denoted by its light blue ceramic return wire.
Image Copyright 2009 D1S (Used with permission)
Model:
85122 LL
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
Not Available (Believed to be 3200 Lumens)
Details:
This is a long life bulb, it is the stock bulb for the Lexus LS430.
Image Copyright 2009 emoshun (Used with permission)
Model:
85122 SX
Color Temp:
5700K
Output:
Not Available
Details:
This bulb is a rare bulb by Philips intended for the Japanese Domestic Market ONLY. The bulb states on the base Not Intended for use in Europe/USA. It has a 5700K color temperature, slightly lower than the 85122WX. Note the reddish brown salts, as opposed to the yellow salts found in lower color temperature bulbs.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
Model:
85122 UB
Color Temp:
6000K (4300K on road)
Output:
Not Available
Details:
This is called the Philips Ultra Blue. There is some controversy about the color temperature of this bulb. Most list it as 6000K but the literature list that as the color of the side bands, the bulb itself is likely not 6000K as it has yellow salts (indicative of a lower color temperature). The blue bands on the sides of the bulb cause the bulb to appear REALLY blue from the sides, while not sacrificing light output in the center. It has a blue return wire, similar to the CX and WX models.
Image Copyright 2009 alexopth1512 (Used with permission)
Model:
85122 WX (aka Ultinon)
Color Temp:
6000K
Output:
2400 Lumens
Details:
This Philips 6000K bulb. It does colorshift to a bluer color. Its characteristic features are the dark blue almost purple ceramic return wire and they bright reddish brown salts.
Model:
85122 YX (Ultinon 3000K)
Color Temp:
3000K
Output:
Not Available
Details:
This is Philips 3000K bulb, it has a yellow return wire and yellow glass.
Model:
85123
Color Temp:
4800K
Output:
2800 Lumens
Details:
A 4800K bulb that was common in the late 90s early 200Os. It was found in a few German luxury vehicles. I don't think it is made anymore.
Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with permission)
Model:
85126
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3200 Lumens
Details:
This bulb is the D2R version of the D2S 85122 bulb. You will find similar offerings to the 85122 series, with the suffixes (i.e +, WX, etc.) meaning the same thing.
Model:
85126 +
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3400 Lumens
Details:
This is the D2R version of the 85122+ bulb. Just like the 85122+, it starts at around 4300K color temperature and does not color-shift during its useful life.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
Model:
DL35
Color Temp:
3900K
Output:
3600 Lumens
Details:
An alternate 35W bulb made by Philips. Not approved for automotive use, instead being intended for indoor use. It has a color temp of 3900K and produces 3600 lumens. Has a similar construction to the DL50, including the "fat-boy" tube structure. It has a smaller arc chamber than the DL50 though.
Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with permission)
Model:
DL50
Color Temp:
3900K
Output:
5800 Lumens
Details:
Philips true 50W bulb. Not approved for automotive use, but works great with a 50W ballast. The original generation of DL50 has the "fat-boy" tube structure as seen below.
Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with permission)
Model:
DL50/740
Color Temp:
3900K
Output:
5300 Lumens
Details:
The newer generation of the DL50, it no longer has the "fat-boy" tube structure, instead having the same tube structure as the regular 85122 bulbs.
A quick note about 50W bulbs. Gearbox did a test of light output and thermal temperature of bulbs with a 50W ballast. He tested the supposed 50W bulb that came with the kit, an 85122 (a 35W bulb) and a DL50. The 50W kit bulb ran hotter than the 85122 or the DL50. This means more than likely the supposed 50W kit bulb was actually a cheap 35W kit bulb.
GE Bulbs
Model:
Xensation 53500
Color Temp:
4200K
Output:
3100 Lumens
Details:
One of the few bulbs produced by GE, a manufacturer who is trying to enter the OEM market. This bulb is their OEM D2S bulb which has a 4200K color temperature.
Model:
Xensation 53510
Color Temp:
4000K
Output:
2800 Lumens
Details:
The D2R version of the Xensation 53500. It also has a 4200K color temperature and is designed for OEM use.
Model:
Blue Xensation 53550
Color Temp:
5100K
Output:
2800 Lumens
Details:
This bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53550 Blue. It is a 5100K bulb with deep reddish salts. It is not approved for use on public roads in Europe/USA due to its blue color.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
Model:
Super Blue Xensation 53560
Color Temp:
9000K
Output:
2300 Lumens
Details:
Another bulb from GE, this one has a 9000K color temperature, the highest color temperature available from any of the OEM manufactuers. As with most high color temperature bulbs it has deep reddish salts. This bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53560 Super Blue. It is not approved for use on public roads in Europe/USA due to its blue color.
Model:
Blue Xensation 53570
Color Temp:
5100K
Output:
2800 Lumens
Details:
This bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53570 Blue. It is a 5100K bulb with deep reddish salts. It is not approved for use on public roads in Europe/USA due to its blue color. It is the D2R version of the Xensation 52550 D2S bulb.
Model:
Super Blue Xensation 53580
Color Temp:
9000K
Output:
2300 Lumens
Details:
GE Super Blue Xensation 53580
- Another bulb from GE, this one has a 9000K color temperature, the highest color temperature available from any of the OEM manufactuers. This bulb is also known as the GE Xensation 53580 Super Blue. It is not approved for use on public roads in Europe/USA due to its blue color. It is the D2R version of the Xensation 52560 D2S bulb.
Koito Bulbs
Model:
Koito D2S
Color Temp:
Not Available (Believed to be 4100K-4300K)
Output:
Not Available
Details:
While Koito as a maker of OEM components, it is likely they licensed this from one of the Big 3 OEM HID bulb makers (Philips, GE or OSRAM). Very little is known about this bulb or its origins. As it is OEM it is likely 4100-4300K in color.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
Panasonic(Matsushita) Bulbs
Model:
Panasonic D2S
Color Temp:
Not Available (Believed to be 4100K-4300K)
Output:
Not Available
Details:
Panasonic D2S
- Similar to the unknown Koito D2S bulb, Panasonic likely licensed this bulb from one of the Big 3 OEM HID bulb makers (Philips, GE or OSRAM). Panasonic is a subsidiary of Matsushita, hence the [M] on the bulb. Very little is known about this bulb (though I have heard rumors that Philips makes the bulbs for Panasonic). Just as with the Koito, it is likely 4100-4300K in color.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
OSRAM/Sylvania Bulbs
Model:
Xenarc 66040
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3200 Lumens
Details:
According to data I have found, this bulb is 4300K with an output of 3210 lumens. Osrams often take a pinkish hue when they color-shift. Giving the bulb a different look than the Philips bulbs.
Image Copyright 2009 CateraMV6 (Used with permission)
Model:
Xenarc 66240
Color Temp:
4300K
Output:
3200 Lumens
Details:
It appears this bulb is 4300K with an output of 3200 lumens. This bulb is a new generation replacement for the Xenarc 66040. It is unknown what if any functional differences exist between the two. Though structurally, the newer bulb now has the metal base support structure and no longer has the white cap over the base. Osrams often take a pinkish hue when they color-shift. Giving the bulb a different look than the Philips bulbs.
Image Copyright 2009 SM_SNIPER (Used with permission)
Model:
Xenstar 62301
Color Temp:
5400K
Output:
Not Available
Details: This bulb is one of the few legal 5400K bulbs (essentially a pure white color). Sylvania included these bulbs with their x1010 driving/fog lamps before they were discontinued. These bulbs are also repackaged by PIAA as 6000k bulbs. They have less red salt than Philips Ultinons, hence the 5400K instead of 6000K color temperature.
Note: If you have pictures of any of the bulbs that lack pictures above or know of bulb models not listed above, please let me know.
Why are OEM bulbs better than kit bulbs?
There are multiple reasons that OEM bulbs are better than kit bulbs. The first is that OEM bulbs run cooler than kit bulbs (read above for the test that showed it).
This is due to the amount and mix of salts. HID bulbs use expensive transition metal iodide salts. The OEM manufacturers have spent countless dollars developing precise salt mixtures that run the coolest and produce the most light. These mixture formulas are closely a closely guarded trade secret. Along with this, these salts can be VERY VERY expensive in high purities. So kit makers tend to scrimp on the amount of salts making the bulb run even hotter. This evident by the fact of when you look in the arc chamber in kit bulbs it looks virtually clear while in OEM bulbs there is a noticable yellow (or in the case of Ultinons and bright reddish brown) salt deposit.
The second is quality control. The OEM manufacturers test each bulb before it leaves the factory. The bulbs are tested for arc chamber shape, arc chamber position, light color, light intensity, etc. Kit bulbs often are not tested at all. It is not uncommon to have arc chambers that are not in the tightly specified location or are not the proper shape. This results in weird looking cut-offs, decreased intensity etc. Also, it is not uncommon to get a pair of 6000K kit bulbs that are either more blue (closer to 8000K or 1000K) or more yellow than 6000K. Sometimes, with horrible QC a pair of supposedly matched bulbs, in fact are not, with one bulb being more yellow or blue than the other.
The third reason, which is explained in more detail later, is that kit bulbs tend to use pure tungsten electrodes while OEM bulbs use thoriated tungsten electrodes. For why this is important, see the section
What are the electrodes in HID bulbs made out of?
Salts: Myths and Questions
Myth: The amount of salts denotes the age of the bulb.
This is partially false. The amount of salt does not really change with one caveat. The volume does increase slightly due to the sputtering of the electrodes, but it is not really that noticable. More importantly, the salts will turn more gray overtime as the metal from the electrodes is sputtered into the mixture of salts.
Myth: Visible Salts are a bad thing.
Competely FALSE. The salts are what actually produce the light in the bulb. Less salts mean a bulb that runs hotter.
Myth: Changing the salts prevents color shifting.
This is completely false. The blue you see in color shifting is the same blue you see at start-up. It is due to a type of light emission around the tips of the electrodes. By changing the shape or make of the electrode, you can design a bulb that will not turn bluer as the electrode is sputtered and deformed or where the blue emission is in a location where the projector will not pick it up.
Why are there salts in a bulb?
The salts actually produce the light in the bulb. When the bulb first fires, it fires at around 25kV. This is required to start the arc. At first, the blue you see is from a type of emission around the two electrodes. As the arc continues the temperature in the arc chamber rises, vaporizing the salts. These vaporized salts are then ionized by the arc into a plasma. This plasma is what emits light. It also serves to allow the required arc voltage to drop to around 84V.
What are some of the salts used in HID bulbs
Common Salts and their colors for HID
Sodium Iodide - White
Thallium Iodide - yellow crystals that become red at 170oC
Scandium Iodide - yellow powder
Dysprosium Iodide - deep yellow powder
Indium Iodide - deep red-brown color
Mercury Iodide - Yellow
The last one may or may not be added, but it may form due to the presence of iodide from the other salts.
More rare salts:
Cerium Iodide-Yellow
Neodymium Iodide - Green
Holmium Iodide - yellow
Erbium Iodide - Pink
Thulium Iodide - Yellow
Gadolinium Iodide - yellow
Ytterbium Iodide - yellow
Which are the most common salts?
The main salts in 4300K bulbs are Scandium Iodide and Sodium Iodide, Dysprosium Iodide is also added to some bulbs. While in higher temperature bulbs, more Indium Iodide is used. This is what gives the salts in those bulbs their red color. It also is really expensive and hazardous to use, which is what gives them their cost.
The exact mixture of salts is unknown, as each company has its own proprietary formula. Trace salts can be added to flesh out the spectrum some, improving CRI.
Why do all ballasts run AC current?
Some early bulbs ran DC current, but they suffered from short bulb life. This is because, in DC one electrode is constantly bombarded by high speed positive ions. This results in a noticeable shortening and deforming of the electrode. Over time, this erodes away the electrode to the point that it fails. By running AC, the high-speed ions, hit both electrodes, essentially doubling the life of the bulb. Another benefit is that the electrodes, run a little cooler using AC because the anode and cathode change about 400X per second compared to DC where 1 is always anode and the other always cathode (shared heat 2 electrodes vs 1). Also, I seem to recall some discussion on AC arcs are easier to maintain than DC arcs. Maybe someone can clarify this for me.
What is color shifting?
Color shifting is when a bulb, once fully warmed up, transitions to a bluer color temperature. This is due to the deformation of the electrodes that occurs as time goes on. To understand this, one must understand that near the electrodes, a region of plasma glows deep blue. As the electrodes are deformed, this region grows larger and contributes more to the color of the bulb. Bulbs that do no color shift have modified electrodes to prevent this deformation. Another tactic is to make it so that the blue area around the electrodes is not in an area that the projector can "see". This helps to minimize its effect as well.
Note: Color shifting should not be confused with the bright blue color at warm up. While this blue color DOES come from the same regions,
it occurs before the salts vaporize
, when IT is one of the ONLY sources of light. Once the salts vaporize, this is suppressed and the light transitions to its proper color temperature.
Why are there TWO glass tubes on a bulb.
If you look at a bulb, you will notice the arc chamber is surrounded in glass, while there is a second glass tube covering the whole bulb. The reason is the two glasses do two different things. The inner glass is a type of glass that can handle the high temperatures and pressures generated by the arc, while letting light out. The outer glass acts as a UV filter to remove the large amounts of UV radiation produced my HID bulbs. This is why you should NEVER operate a bulb that has a cracked or missing outer glass cover. The UV radiation is so intense it can blind you and/or give you a horrible burn (equivalent to a sunburn, but can be as bad as 2nd and 3rd degree).
How long to D2S bulbs last?
Unlike halogen bulbs, which typically die when the filament snaps, HID bulbs have very few methods of mechanical failure. This results in bulbs can last an excessively long time (thousands and thousands of hours), but as time goes on the output of the bulb decreases. According to some spec sheets, at around 1500 hrs of use, an HID bulb is only emitting around 75% of its brightness. So assuming linear lifespan (which is likely not a valid assumption, but for clarities sake we will assume it is), at around 3000 hrs, the bulb is at 50% brightness. This means, a bulb may still be working long after its luminous output has fallen below that of a halogen bulb.
What are the electrodes in HID bulbs made out of?
In OEM bulbs the electrodes are made out of thoriated tungsten. Thoriated tungsten electrodes were introduced approximately fifty years ago as an alternative to the use of pure tungsten electrodes. Thoriated means that the electrodes contain 1-2% (by weight) of Thorium dioxide (ThO2). Thorium dioxide is added to the tungsten to promote electrode life, which helps the bulb last longer. The added thorium dioxide also promotes a more stable arc than an electrode made of pure tungsten. Aftermarket bulbs on the other hand often use the cheaper tungsten electrodes. This is another reason for the reduced life and less than desirable luminescent properties found in aftermarket bulbs.
If anyone has anything else to add to this, please let me know.
Also, if anyone has pictures of said bulbs I would LOVE to add those. Even if it is mainly of the base showing the model number. I will host them on my own server, unless you prefer to host them yourself. I just ask that even if you post them you give me unlimited permission to use them STRICTLY in this post and no where else. That way in the future, even if your server dies I can rehost them elsewhere. Basically, what I am saying is, I want permission to rehost them if the need should arise. Nothing more nothing less, not wanting ownership of them or anything like that. You will be credited with supplying the pictures etc. and ownership and copyright etc. will be noted as belonging to you and fully retained by you.
Thanks for additions, information and corrections:
D1S, Oculus, emoshun, dorkiedoode and alexopth1512
Picture Thanks:
alexopth1512, emoshun, rondy_, SM_SNIPER, D1S and CateraMV6
Organizational Thanks:
AlternativeSurfer who has REALLY helped copy edit this Discussion and compiled the lumen information for the bulbs!
D4 bulbs require D4 type ballasts, will not work with d2 or d1 type ballasts
42402 Philips D4S 4800K 3200lm (Hg free)pure white, 42V.
42402 V269 Philips D4S 5800K 3300lm (Hg free), snow white 42V.
42406 Philips D4R 4800K 3800lm (Hg free), pure white 42V.
66040 Osram D2S 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark
66043 Osram D1S 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark
elektronic 35W
66050 Osram D2R 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenark.
66053 Osram D1R 4150K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white Xenarc electronik 35W
85122 Philips D2S 4100K 3200lm, DOT approved, yellow-white.
85122+ Philips D2S 4300K, DOT approved, yellow-white, white with tint of yellow (usualy what you find in projectors of todays acura, infinity and many others)
85122WX Philips D2S 5800K Ultinon 2400lm pure blue violet white.
85123 Philips D2S 4900K color reminds color of Ultinon, pure white, without yellow ( most likely specially for BMW)
85126, same as 85122, but D2R
85126+, same as 85122+, but D2R
85407 Philips D1S, built in starter, rest same as 85122.
85407+ Philips D1S, built in starter, rest same as 85122+
85408 Philips D1R, built in starter, rest same as 85122
85408+ Philips D1R, built in starter, rest same as 85122+
«
Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 12:16:38 PM by AV6NHBP6SPD
»
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #2 on:
February 04, 2011, 11:44:28 AM »
Changed the thread title so it's more informative. Another thing I'd also like to add to the information that you've posted is that the 4300k-5000k range is more of a sweet spot. The higher you go in color temperature the closer you get to ultraviolet light and the lower you go in color temperature the closer you get to infrared light, both beyond our field of vision.
FYI, you have to have an account on HID planet to view the forum.
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Tim
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #3 on:
February 04, 2011, 12:15:36 PM »
oh ok. ill just quote it from there then
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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Reply #4 on:
February 04, 2011, 10:17:35 PM »
Could you clean it up a little so it's not so hard to read?
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #5 on:
February 05, 2011, 07:35:54 AM »
Thanks for the thread retitling Tim. I figured it was about time someone created a thread regarding all the "my 8000k HIDs are hella bright dawg!" posts. I was going for a bit of humor with the title but this one works as well. Hopefully, some of our newer members read this thread and learn.
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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Reply #6 on:
February 05, 2011, 09:16:45 AM »
That doesn't seem to be the trend.
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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Reply #7 on:
February 05, 2011, 01:10:46 PM »
Unfortunately. Hopefully they see the "light" and come to their senses much like many of us have.
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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Reply #8 on:
February 05, 2011, 04:16:50 PM »
ppl who get 8k are going for look and not light output
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
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Reply #9 on:
February 06, 2011, 12:24:22 AM »
Where's my Captain Obvious smiley when I need it?
On that note, the problem with the look, the light output sucks balls compared to halogen. You know that Misha but I was just stating that for the newbs/ ricer crowd as there are a few that browse this forum. Mostly as guests though.
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"If one day the speed kills me, do not cry because I was smiling." - Paul Walker
pbplayer257
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #10 on:
May 16, 2012, 06:52:50 PM »
After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind...
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CrackerTeg
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Re: Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #11 on:
May 16, 2012, 09:49:55 PM »
That's what we're here for.
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"If one day the speed kills me, do not cry because I was smiling." - Paul Walker
timot_one
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #12 on:
May 16, 2012, 11:46:57 PM »
Quote from: pbplayer257 on May 16, 2012, 06:52:50 PM
After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind..
I think you're one of the first people that I've seen that hasn't convinced themselves that HID kits aren't dangerous because they have one. Props to you for doing the right thing. Hopefully you have the opportunity to get a good retrofit one day so you have great lighting performance and do it safely.
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Tim
Quote from: Andrew Ilnyckyj
Eating gold is like the equivalent of wiping your butt with dollar bills. At some point, it's going to come in contact with my ass...just doing it in a more elegant way.
Milan
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #13 on:
May 17, 2012, 08:10:06 AM »
Quote from: pbplayer257 on May 16, 2012, 06:52:50 PM
After reading a lot on hid kits and how stock reflectors are designed for halogen bulbs, i have removed my 6k hids and put the up for sale. Although i really enjoy the extra visibility they gave me, i had a bad experience the other day the other day that pushed me away from the dark side.(plus i'd rather keep a lower profile on the road..and cars with non-oem hids are just a target for cops)
I hate driving in front of cars with hids and never really realized...or cared that i was doing the same. I have found the Light and Just felt the need to speak my mind...
For that, my friend, you get positive rep.
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Milan - NBP Coupe V6 6MT
Genevieve - Aspen White '07 MDX
CrackerTeg
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Re: HID Kelvin vs Luminosity
«
Reply #14 on:
May 17, 2012, 10:32:47 AM »
That only counts if you GIVE him positive rep.
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"If one day the speed kills me, do not cry because I was smiling." - Paul Walker
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