^^^ Thanks Sworkhard! I lost my original user manual for the head unit and finally downloaded a replacement. There are a lot of features that are being underutilized, so some tweaking to the current settings will definitely produce a better sound stage. Hopefully updates soon
Never thought of it earlier, but make sure the speakers are all in phase otherwise one could be 'sucking' while the other is 'blowing' resulting in quiet mids/midbass.
Ok, read through this entire thread and found some answers I was looking for. Still have more that hopefully Tim, et al, will surely be able to provide a response to ... Thanks in advance Tim.
System Components:
H/U: Pioneer DEH-P6600 - Added Pioneer CDRB10 Auxilary Input Adapter Fronts: 5.25 Polk DB525. Installed them with American International HSB-518 Speaker Adapter and Metra 72-7800 Honda Speaker Harness. Rears: 6x9 Polk DB690. Installed with Metra 72-7800 Honda Speaker Harness. Amp: MTX 3002 amp for sub. Set at LP filter. Sub: Infinity Reference Series 12"
Problem is that the mid-bass is lacking significantly in the front. My stock had better mid-bass than what I'm experiencing now. I have the fade set only slightly to the front (+3 of range = -14 to +14). I've adjusted the midbass to max on the internal EQ within the H/U (+6 of range = -6 to +6). Any suggestions?
My amp also has 3 adjustment knobs: Gain, Bass Boost and Frequency. Pretty self explanatory, but just looking whether anyone had any advice on properly adjusting these knobs to clean up the bass response. I have to check the amp specs for the frequency range and properly adjust that knob to suite the sub....
I apologize for being a noob.
Give the polks time to break in for starters. For some reason it seems to take about 50 hours of use before they start sounding good. Also, because they aren't amped, your not going to ever have great midbass response, as the head unit's built in amps simply don't have enough power (it's not purely the wattage as much as how fast the amp can get the power to change directions with the heavier speaker - heavier speaker = more EMF)
I have those speakers installed in a different vehicle and it took a while before they sounded okay. In my car I have Polk Momo's (6.5's) and they took a while to break in as well. It wasn't until I amped them that I felt they were an improvement over stock. Adding the amp made a much bigger different than changing the speakers on my car. I found that the Aftermarket headunit resulted in poorer midbass even with stock speakers, and stayed about the same when I swapped to the polks (I sealed the doors at the same time though, so that would have improved the mid bass if everything else stayed the same). As the polks broke in, it improved a bit and ended up being a bit better than stock, but hardly noticable. When I added the amp, the sound as a whole, but especially the midbass, improved very noticably, and I'm completely happy with my car's midbass now. I have them high passed at 67hz for integration with my sub, but 80hz is probably a more appropriate starting point for your 5.25's
I used a multimeter to set the gains for my amp. Leave bass boost at 0 (your head unit can take care of boosting the bass unless you want it to be disproportionate). If you HU has time alignment, be sure to use it as that makes a big difference. If not, don't be scared to run your sub out of phase to try get better integration. A good place to start for frequency is 80-100hz considering your smaller front speakers and the resulting natural roll off on them.
I took the whole assembly off the steering column, took the switch off the assembly, and since the key was in, I can start it with a screwdriver now. I can simply take the switch along to provide some form of theft deterrent. I'm waiting for my other keys to arrive in the mail, and then I'm going to bring it to a dealer to see what needs to be replaced. Prob need some combination of 1 and two replaced. I wonder if a locksmith could do anything.
So today I got into my car, turned the key past the point that the steering is unlocked, only to be unable to turn it farther. It also won't turn back far enough to be able to remove the key?
Does anybody have an idea regarding what is involved in fixing this?
I ended up going with raxles (raxles.com) since the ones from autozone looked really cheap and didn't come with harmonic dampers. The raxles seem like a much higher quality product.
It appears that it adds that much power at one point in the curve, but doesn't add that amount to the total engine output. For example, it adds 8hp and 16ft=lbs tq to the s2000 at 2650 rpm
Does anyone know if there is a difference between the left and right axle assemblies for automatic and manual transmissions. I've tried looking on Honda parts websites but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. The reason I ask is I can find several assemblies available in Canada but they are listed specifically for the automatic where the parts websites based in the states don't seem to specify a transmission.
Narrower is good for snow covered, gravel and wet roads (pushes through it easier), but bad for icy and dry roads where the additional contact patch surface area of a wider tires, and for ice, this means more sipes on the road at at time gives it the edge.
woofersetc.com, crutchfield, and ebay are where I get most of my audio equipment. woofersetc.com generally has very good prices and very fair shipping rates.
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