FYI: Questions regarding HID, Projectors, Bulbs, Ballasts...? Ask here.

[DreaminAccord]

I receive retrofitting and HID bulb questions all the time via PM. So, I've decided to start this thread as it gets a little tiring answering the same questions over and over. So, if you have a question regarding retrofitting, HID bulbs, ballasts, projectors, etc. please post it here so not only you, but someone else with the same question can also benefit from the answer.

Here is a PM I received the other day that I'd like to start this thread off with regarding the expensive OEM Osram Cool Blue Intense (CBI) D2S 35W 5,000K bulbs.

Let's get the real scoop, are CBI bulbs worth the cost? I recently won a pair of Murano projectors on ebay that I plan to retro into my Sonata and I've always been intregued about CBI bulbs, but the cost alone will be more than I spent on the projectors... Can you give me some un-bias info on them? Have you had other Philips/Osram bulbs before that they compaired to? Is the extra 700K really that big of a difference?

Un-bias information: The Osram CBI bulbs are the first OEM 5,000K bulb. They output 3200-3400 lumens using new technology. Typically, as you increase in kelvin (4,300K being stock and yellowish-white, 12,000K being purple) you decrease in usable light lumens. The human eye is more sensitive to blues/purples than red/orange/yellows. So not only are you harming your vision the higher up in kelvin you go by decreasing lumens, but you're also making your retinas/pupils work harder and your distance vision ends up suffering.

Osram came up with this miraculous technology where they could produce the 5,000K temperature (pure white) with the actual salts and NOT by a blue coating over the bulbs glass as all of the other OEM and aftermarket bulbs were doing. This helped keep the usable light lumens in the 3200-3400 range - the same as the stock 4,300K Philips 85122+ bulbs (most popular among OEM manufacturers). The CBI's were first introduced on the Mercedes Benz only in Germany. Now, they have become very popular among retrofitters and those that have OEM setups but want to upgrade their bulbs.

Later, they released the Osram SVS bulbs - the exact same technology of the Osram CBI but in a 4,300K stock yellow-white temperature. So basically it boils down to your preference in color - but both bulbs are equally as good in terms of performance. The SVS will actually perform better in the rain/inclement weather as again, our eyes are more sensitive to the higher kelvin temperatures. This is why you see manufacturers such as Lexus who come stock with projector fog lamps, use yellow (3,000K) bulbs.

Now, on another note, Philips (Osram's biggest competitor) has just released a brand new bulb on their line-up that is in response to Osram's CBI - they are called Philips Xenon X-tremeVision 85122XVS1 (D2S 35W) - they are not even available in the USA yet - only in Europe. Philips 85122XVS1 They are still about $212-250 shipped as they are brand new; but like the CBI's once US dealers get their hands on them they will come down in price. I paid over $200 for my CBI's right after they came out. Now you can get them a lot cheaper and find users in the FS section on HIDP selling them all the time so now would be the time to buy 'em used (they are at their best after their 20 hour break-in time anyhow) since everyone is going crazy over the new Philips and wants to sell their CBI's :smh:

Some HIDP threads you may be interested in to help:
HIDP - New Philips Xenon X-tremeVision

HIDP - New Osrams Xenarc CBI

HIDP - Osram CBI vs. SVS Comparison



My unbiased opinion...ANY of these OEM bulbs will make you extremely happy You can't go wrong with any or all of them. It basically boils down to personal preference on color / brand.

[DreaminAccord]

More additional information:

Another member asked whether or not the following headlamps are worth his investment:


Here is my advice:

If LEDs and Halos are an important thing to you in your next headlamp setup, then I say go with the eBay headlamps listed above. Only, those projectors are cheap Chinese halogen projectors (NOT made for HID which I can only guess is your overall goal). I advise against using them as your main lighting source. To be honest, those LEDs/Halos are also Chinese knock-offs and one should not be surprised if they shine blue/discolored/weak (barely noticeable). They are known to only last a few months if you wire them up to your running lights and use them all the time for looks. Otherwise, they really serve no purpose.

If they are NOT important to you, I suggest posting a WTB ad and/or shopping the For Sale/Classifieds section for a pair of OEM headlamps (always the best quality for a retrofit and you know vehicle fitment will be dead-on.)

If you have a pair of perfectly usable headlamps now, and this is only a "cosmetic" upgrade VS. a required upgrade; I say take them (eBay ones) apart and retro in a pair of Morimoto Mini H1 v5.0 w/ a 4,300K Morimoto H1 HID bulb. This will not only give you a proper HID projector setup with the most simple installation, but also the most visibility (4,300K at 3200 lumens) at the most affordable price.

Being that you are only racing a clock set by yourself (wants VS. needs) but no real time limit...to take your time with this if you are new retrofitting. Use this time to read, learn and explore :thmsup: If you are up for a little challenge, spend a lot of time doing research on the different OEM and AM HID projectors (both low-beam only VS. Bi-Xenon HID high+low beam; and OEM VS. Aftermarket/Replica projectors).

If you own a 2003-2005 model that does NOT have OEM DRL, you could easily wire in a Bi-Xenon projector by using High-Beam splitters to power the Bi-Xenon solenoid to flip the cutoff shield down at the same time you flash on your OEM Halogen Highs. If you want to disable your halogen highs, simply pull the fuse.

If you own a 2006-2007 model with DRL, a little more work is required in order to have a Bi-Xenon projector work efficiently. You see, how DRLs are controlled by a module. When the car is powered on (and as long as the handbrake is not pulled), the high beam bulbs receive power a very low wattage (I believe 5-6V instead of the full 12V, but don't quote me on this.) When the low-beams are enabled, the module acts as a relay, cutting off all power to the high-beam bulbs. When the high beams are enabled, the relay then opens up the current flowing to the HB bulbs and supplies them with a full 12V power supply. High-beam splitters, alone, will not be enough in this situation, as your high-beam solenoid on the Bi-Xenon projector that controls the cutoff shield, will be constantly receiving the electrical impulses sent back and forth between the bulbs and the DRL module; thus causing the solenoid to "flicker" with each passing electrical pulse, and can lead to premature wearing out / early failure. By adding an additional relay, you can bypass the Bi-Xenon solenoid from receiving this pulse and to only receive power when the full 12V power is supplied to the High Beams. Here is a link on how-to accomplish this: HIDP - Dual Lamp DRL


HID Bi-Xenon route: in terms of functionality VS. ease of installation for a first time retrofitter, I highly suggest the Morimoto FX-R 3.0 (it is a replica produced by Morimoto based upon the famous OEM Bi-Xenon FX projector off of the Nissan/Infinity setup). This projector will also provide you with many more bulb choices, as it takes a standard OEM D2S style HID bulb. Meaning, you can go with Philips 85122+, Osram 66240 CBI 5,000K, Osram 66240 SVS 4,300K etc. OR the very-good/price-friendly AM Morimoto D2S 35W bulbs.

HID low-beam only projector: I highly suggest the Acura TSX w/ clear lens OR the Lexus RX-AFS w/ clear lens. These are easy to mount projectors w/ OEM quality. The TSX's are no longer sold by TheRetrofitSource, so you will have to search the For Sale section over on HID Planet - but they are always popping up. That is what I've personally chosen. I have also used the Morimoto Mini H1, Mini D2S, and FX-R 3.0 Bi-Xenon throughout my retrofitting years. All good projectors, each with their pros & cons over one another.

I strongly suggest: You sign-up as a member on HIDP and review the following sections:

HIDP - How-To's Section - There are pictorial How-To's for just about every make/model of vehicle AND projector/ballast setup. Study, study, study!
HIDP - University Section - May all of the 1,000 MOST FAQ be answered already :thmsup:
HIDP - Wiring Questions - All of your questions regarding Wiring harnesses, relays, fuses, ignitors, etc.

Accord-Specific

HIDP - 2007 Honda Accord V6 Coupe TSX Retrofit - My personal entire step-by-step build thread of my custom TSX retrofit including special mounting of my (Infinity/Nissan) Matsushita Gen V ballasts, custom painting the headlamp bezels Graphite Pearl, etc. :banana:

V6P - Specific 7th Gen Honda Accord Mini H1 How-To
TRS' Morimoto H1 Projector Install How-To
HIDP - JnC's Mounting Method
DA.net - Discussion on projector lighting - You can see specifically what a Morimoto Mini H1 projector would look like in a chrome OEM housing 1/2 way down the page
Google Docs - How-to: 7-7.5G Accord TSX Retrofit
1A AUTO - 03-07 Accord Headlamps (PAIR) - $120

YouTube - How-to: Remove '03-07 Accord Headlamp

[DreaminAccord]

Answers to a V6P member's questions that I'd like to share here, also, as I took a lot of time writing this:

#1) The whole Bi-Xenon means what?
Answer: A Bi-Xenon projector is simply a low-beam projector only with a moveable shield (up & down). When the cutoff shield is up, it blocks half of the light beam, so that light does not escape above the cutoff when projected (refer to pic #1 below). When the high beam stalk is enabled (on your steering wheel), the solenoid of the Bi-X projector receives the signal and forces the cutoff shield downward, out of the way of the light beam; thus allowing the entire beam of light to be projected outward (refer to pic #2).

#2) I don't have a DRL fuse so I just need high or low. What's the deal with the moveable shield?
Answer: Some vehicles, like my sister's Dodge Neon, uses a 9007 bulb. That is, the low & high beam uses the same bulb, which is accomplished by different voltages supplied depending on whether or not the high beam is enabled. In this case, one would need to use a Bi-Xenon projector (as you can not drive around with the solenoid down. This would blind everyone around you.) Those who choose to do a quad (4x) HID projector retro will sometimes choose to wire up the 2nd set of projectors to run off of a switch. This enables them to run their main two (2) projectors with the OEM stalk on the steering wheel, and the ability to flip on their 2nd pair of projectors whenever they please for a more intense low beam; all aimed at the exact same level, so the beam appears as such:

Lower --> _________/--/--/--/-------------- <-- Upper

Depending on the type of retrofit and outcome you wish to accomplish, the two main projectors can be a low-beam only (TSX, RX-AFS, S2K, etc.) with a Bi-Xenon as the 2nd pair (so you don't lose your high-beam ability); OR all four (4) projectors can be Bi-Xenon for an INTENSE[/b] (awesome) high-beam. G'luck missing deer with those babies!

In your case, if you strictly were going to use the 2nd pair for high-beam only, and did not wish to run four projectors (low-beam) at the same time, the MH1 can easily be taken apart and the cutoff shield removed (refer to pics #6 & #7). You would then need to wire it so the ballasts to the MH1s being used as a high-beam only projector only receive a signal input when your high beams are enabled. This would allow your main pair of projectors to remain on with a cutoff (or on in high-beam mode, too, if they are also Bi-Xenon), and in addition, the modified (high-beam only) MH1s to turn on to provide you with great visibility.

#3) Also double checking the minis come with shrouds right?
Answer: This depends. The Morimoto MH1 does come with their own shrouds (included in the $120 price) in which you can choose from the Mini Gatling, Mini Graphite, or Gatling 2.0 while ordering. The Morimoto MD2S does NOT come with shrouds included, however, they are $10 cheaper than the MH1 in price, and can use any shroud offered by TRS except for the ones listed for the MH1 (Mini Gatling/Graphite, Gatling 2.0) - The D2S version is a larger projector and has a larger lens.

#4) I was also thinking of wrapping the projector in aluminum tape to avoid bleed. Good idea or no?
Answer: Absolutely a fine idea, sir. Many have done it, and the aluminum tape holds up well against the heat of the projector.

#5) I don't want to spend a ton on H1 bulbs...
Answer: The Morimoto H1 bulbs (35W) sell for $40/pair. The Morimoto XB35 H1 bulbs (said to be better) sell for $70/pair. Just know this regarding H1 bulbs... they were originally designed as an accessory bulb (fog lamps, etc.) and not to be used as a primary (headlamp) bulb. Therefore, they will never perform as well as the D2S, D4S, etc. OEM bulbs in terms of intensity, width, and so on. However, Morimoto has done a very good job at designing the Mini H1 projector to bring out the best of a HID H1 bulb and has made it more-than-acceptable to be used as a primary bulb. It still far exceeds a standard halogen headlamp bulb in terms of performance and you will see a dramatic improvement in overall visibility/nighttime driving. But, just keep that little fact in mind when deciding on which projector and bulb style is right for you.

#6) A question that was not asked but I would like to address: What is a foreground limiter and what is its main purpose?
Answer: Foreground lighting is the light that illuminates the immediate ground, directly in front of your vehicle. Although you cannot see this light from the driver's seat, as the front of the vehicle/hood block it from your vision, it can and will in fact affect your nighttime visibility. Subconsciously, your eyes will concentrate on the light that is closest to them (main VS. peripheral). This affects your distance vision by causing your pupils to constrict and your eyes to work harder than necessary. By limiting the amount of (useless) foreground lighting, you vastly improve your distance vision by having your eyes concentrate on where they need to (refer to pic #13).

#7) Also not asked but I want to address: What is the difference, in mounting, between the Morimoto Mini H1 and Morimoto Mini D2S projectors? They are both Bi-Xenon and similarly shaped...
Answer: There are only two main differences - one being the overall size of the projectors, as discussed above, the Mini D2S has a larger lens and bowl to compensate for the larger D2S style bulb. Secondly, the Mini D2S projector has a larger threaded bulb holder that WILL require modification to your OEM Accord headlamps. That is correct, you may not return back to a stock halogen setup after installing the Mini D2S, unless you open up the headlamp and swap out the reflector housings; as it requires you to drill the OEM 9006 halogen bulb holder a larger diameter. The Mini H1 does not require this drilling and can be converted back to an OEM halogen setup, should you choose to sell the car w/o the projectors. Other than that, they both mount in the same manner; by a locking ring and threaded bulb holder (refer to pics #14 & #15).

=============== PICS =================

Pic #1: HID cutoff - photo was not modified in any way except for the focus on the actual beam, itself, to better show a real-life scenario of the result. No light shines above the cutoff; this is for the protection of on-coming traffic.


Pic #2: Morimoto Mini H1 V5.0 High-beam solenoid enabled.


Pic #3: Morimoto Mini D2S V2.0

^^ The part that looks like it's wrapped in yellow saran-wrap is the solenoid, the metal "stalk" is the spring loaded plunger that pulls/pushes the cutoff shield up/down

Pic #4: Rear-shot of the Morimoto Mini D2S V2.0

^^ From this photo, you can clearly see the cutoff shield ____/------

Pic #5: Morimoto Mini H1 V5.0 Cutoff Shield Top View


Pic #6: Morimoto Mini H1 V5.0 Disassembled


Pic #7: Morimoto Mini H1 V5.0 Cutoff Shield & Foreground Limiter


Pic #8: Painted Cutoff Shield & Foreground Limiter


Pic #9: Painted Cutoff & Limiter results

This process allows the projector to take on whichever color you please, while the bulb is off, for a custom look

Pic #10: Morimoto Mini D2S (non-color modded)

^^ You can clearly see that the cutoff retains a yellowish-white appearance to it with no bluish-purple hue. This is how a lot of OEM setups come, as they use a fresnel lens over a clear lens (with some OEM projectors, of course, the exception)

Pic #11: Morimoto Mini H1 (color-modded / lens spaced)

A beautiful bluish-purple hue at the cutoff. This is what makes some people believe that HID bulbs are really (6,000K-12,000K) but in fact, the actual output of usable light is 4,300K (that you use to see with, as the amount of usable light lumens decreases as the kelvin temperature increases)

Pic #12: Morimoto Mini H1 (color-modded / lens spaced)


Pic #13: TSX Foreground Limiter example

The foreground lighting is splotchy and not as intense. This varies projector to projector depending upon the shape and size of the foreground limiter.

Pic #14: Morimoto Mini H1 V5.0 threaded bulb holder


Pic #15: Morimoto Mini D2S V2.0 threaded bulb holder


Comparison Pics - Halogen VS. HID:

Stock 7G Accord Halogen cutoff:


HID cutoff (TSX projector):


^^ You can clearly see the more intense hot spot, width and even spread of light of the HID bulb VS. a standard Halogen bulb. In this photo, I am using the OEM Osram Cool Blue Intense 5,000K bulbs. They have a brighter and more intense hot spot than, say, the OEM Philips 85122+ bulbs (hence why they call it "intense").

[CrackerTeg]

Nice writeup Ben. One picture is flawed. Pic #15: Morimoto Mini D2S V2.0 threaded bulb holder. Its a picture of a D2S bulb.

[DreaminAccord]

Fuck. That just proves you can't count on others to do shit right. The majority of photos have now been annotated and are now hosted by me. Refresh sir, problem should be fixed

[CrackerTeg]

No worries.

[DreaminAccord]

Good now sticky this bitch, already, goddamn it 

[CrackerTeg]

I was considering it but now I won't. Nyeh!

[DreaminAccord]

haha 

[DreaminAccord]

one more question, if i want to run both high's and low's at the same time ie quad low beams or highs via bi-xenon having shield up or down at the same time, i have in mind

2x mini h1 projector kits with
                                             6k h1 bulbs
                                             3five ballasts
                                             9006 relay
                                             1 kit with resealing glue
1x high beam splitter 9005male > 9005/9006 female
                                            

now the part in question

all i need to make both projectors work as high beam or low would be to use a high beam splitter correct?

To answer your question, yes, because your 03-05 coupe does not have DRL, you can simply get away with using a high-beam splitter. That is correct, you will need the 9005 male --> 9005/9006 female from TheRetrofitSource.  

For the 2006-2007 Accords with OEM DRL, our system is a bit more complicated and requires additional work; as our high-beam is constantly powered (unless low-beam is enabled) running at approximately 6V (DRL) and 12-14V when the high-beam is enabled.

If I were to simply just use a high-beam splitter, then I would be putting my projector's solenoid at a higher chance of premature failure. When the DRL mode is enabled, an impulse signal is constantly sent back and forth to the DRL module of the vehicle. The projector's solenoid would be constantly receiving/sending this signal, as well, thus causing it to "flicker" the entire time the vehicle is in DRL mode.

The solution, one may ask...?

A 4-pin relay can easily solve this matter 

Wiring diagram (borrowed from HIDP member StupidPig) - for our 9005/9006 setup, ignore the low+ to low- resistor displayed.


The 85/86 is the relay's coil (constant), whereas the 30 and 87(and 87A) are the relay's switched contacts. Basically, you are separating the DRL from the projector's solenoid by terms of the low-beams (input). We (Honda owners) can accomplish it this way, as our cars utilize a 9005/9006 setup where the low-beams stay on regardless if the high-beams are enabled/disabled. On other systems where the low-beams shut off during high-beam operation, they will need to run a resistor in between the low+ and low- (as seen in the diagram above).


When the low-beams (ballasts) are on, the relay is closed; but because the DRL becomes disabled when the low-beams are enabled, there is no signal input to the projector solenoid. As soon as the high-beams are enabled, the signal then flows through the switched contact (30/87/87A) to the high-beam halogen bulb, as well as, the projector's solenoid to enable the BiXenon high-beam