Accord Wiring Guide

[timot_one]

I was lucky enough to get my hands on a very detailed wiring guide for our cars.  This is helpful for anyone that's trying to do an alarm/remote start install or anything else involving the electrical system.  Pictures will be scanned in later when I have time.

Format: Item - Wire Color - Polarity - Location

Alarm Remote Start Wiring
12 volts - white (50A) - (+) - ignition harness
Starter - black/white - (+) - ignition harness
Ignition - black/yellow - (+) - ignition harness
Accessory - black/red - (+) - ignition harness
2nd Accessory - white/red - (+) - ignition harness
Keysense - red/white or red/black - (-) - ignition harness or MICU (green plug, pin 13)
Can Bus Sw - brown/red - (data) - driver kick, door harness
Power Lock - **pink/black - (-) - *MICU (green plug, pin 25)
Power Unlock - pink/blue - (-) - MICU (green plug, pin 9)
Lock Motor - yellow/black - (5wi) - front of fuse box (light green 12 pin plug)
Driver Unlock Motor - yellow/green - (5wi) - front of fuse box (light green 12 pin plug)
Passenger Unlock Motor - yellow -  (5wi) - top of fuse box (large white plug)
Parking Lights (-) - red/black - (-) - headlight switch in column cover
Parking Lights (+) - red/black - (+) - top of fuse box (large white plug)
Hazard Lights - green/red - (+) -  top of fuse box (large white plug)
Turn Signal (Left) - red/blue - (+) - top of fuse box (large white plug)
Turn Signal (Right) - brown - (+) - top of fuse box (large white plug)
Headlight - black/red or blue/red - (-) - headlight switch in column cover
Reverse Light - green - (+) - driver kick (harness to rear of car)
Door Triggers - ***see notes - (-) - driver kick or back of fuse box
Dome Supervision - green/red - (-) - back of fuse box light
Trunk Pin - blue/black - (-) - MICU (green plug, pin 24)
Hood Pin - yellow/red to green/black - (-) - hoood pin switch in latch
Trunk Release - ****yellow/green - (+) - driver kick (harness to rear of car)
Factory Alarm Arm - blue/white to red/white - (-) - driver door module in door
Factory Alarm Disarm - black/red to white - (-) - driver door module in door
Disarm No Unlock - see factory alarm disarm
Tachometer - ******blue/red or blue - (ac) - *****ECM/PCM
Speed Sense - *******blue/white - (no value) - ECM/PCM
Brake Wire - white/black - (+) - brake pedal switch
Parking Brake - green/orange - (-) - top of fuse box (large white plug)
Horn Trigger - green/yellow - (-) - horn switch
Wipers - green/white - (-) - windshield wiper switch
Left Front Window (Up/Down) - red/black & red/yellow - (A) - LF window switch in door
Right Front Window (Up/Down) - red/blue & red - (A) - RF window switch in door
Left Rear Window (Up/Down) - red/white & blue black - (A) - LR window switch in door
Right Rear Window (Up/Down) - red/white & blue/black - (A) - RR window switch in door
Sun Roof (Open/Close) - green/yellow & green/black - (A) - sunroof motor (rear of roof) sedan only

*The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box.  The plugs for the MICU are on the left side ecge of the fuse/relay box.  

**Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.

***Door Triggers - use all 4 wires and diode isolate each
- the LF door is green in a light green 16 pin plug, pin 15
- the RF door is light green/red in a light green 14 pin plug, pin 12
- the LR door is green/yellow in a light green 16 pin plug, pin 14
- the RR door is green/white in a light green 14 pin plug, pin 14

****Be very careful when testing for this wire.  Testing or connecting to the wrong wire has been known to short out the ECM.

*****The ECM/PCM is on the front of the transmission tunnel.  The connectors are on the passenger side.  

******On the 4 cylinder models the tach wire is in the white 31 pin connector E, pin 25.  On the 6 cylinder models it is in the gray connector A, pin 23.  Can also go to any ignition coil and use the wire that is NOT black/white or black.  Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT yellow/black.

*******On the 4 cylinder models the VSS wire is in the white 31 pin connector E, pin 26.  On the 6 cylinder models it is in the gray connector A, pin 11.

Audio System Wiring Harness
Radio 12v - white/green - (+)
Radio Ground - black - (-)
Radio Ignition - yellow/red - (+)
Radio Illumination - red/black - (+)
Power Antenna - yellow/green - (+)
Left Front Speaker

green/black - (+)
light green - (-)

Right Front Speaker

green/yellow - (+)
gray or gray/red - (-)

Left Rear Speaker

blue/white or blue - (+)
blue/black or pink - (-)

Right Rear Speaker

pink or green - (+)
blue/yellow or purple - (-)

[Mike]

This is amazing information! Thank you for taking the time to write this out, and i'm sure your work will benefit may members in the future. You were right when you said "This post is going to be epic"

[MyNameIsThien]

Awesome Tim. This help a lot of people out.

[clapton924]

Found this helpful when I was wiring new speakers.  I've basically found that positive wires (+) will almost always be striped and negatives (-) will be a solid color.

[redHFPcm7]

Tim did you get this from directech?

[timot_one]

Yeah.  Do you have access to it?

[LFSoccer2k6]

I am curious, where is the ignition harness exactly?

[rich]

under/behind the steerin column. you have to take off/remove the steering colum shroud..i think its 2-4 philips screws and it un pops and comes out...harness will be to the right around the area you would put your actual key in ignition

[LFSoccer2k6]

under/behind the steerin column. you have to take off/remove the steering colum shroud..i think its 2-4 philips screws and it un pops and comes out...harness will be to the right around the area you would put your actual key in ignition

Thanks, wasn't sure if it was that one or the one on top of the steering column.

[rich]

nope thats just a split harness thats gonna go ur wiper arm controls and the headlight controls

[Rushzer0]

I have a question, I'm pretty sure the fuck tard company I went to for my audio install, disconnected my tweeters (which were working before I went in) taking it back isnt an option after the way they fucked everything else up and accused me of breaking stuff myself, if I go in there I'm leaving in cuffs, rumor has it they are going out of business now too (big surprise) my question is which wires are for the tweeters and where do I hook them into? I will take pictures of the atrocious mess tomorrow when I dive into it, I also got them to install a dynamat type sound deadener and let's just say WOW! Did they ever do a shitty job, I thought the trunk was kinda meh when I picked my car up but it wasn't until weeks later when I removed the door panels that I saw what a shitty job they did. Anyways what's the best way to remove it? I have access to a heat gun if that helps. Like I said I'll snap some pics to show you guys, any help with the tweeter wiring and suggestions for removing the sound deadener are appreciated.

[timot_one]

What was done besides the dynamat install?  Is it the OEM or an aftermarket head unit?  Do you have an amp?

I believe the best way to get dynamat off is with dry ice.  You're in Canada, so it'll get cold enough pretty soon.  Hahahaha.  I'm sure a heat gun is another great way to get it off.  I'd like to see pictures of what they did before you put yourself through the trouble of taking it out.

[Rushzer0]

Well they did the dynamat but it's very poorly done, I don't even think a roller was used :/ and I can't access my license plate bulbs anymore because they put it over them. They installed the metra lower dash cubbyhole kit which they also fucked up its loose at the top like they didnt attach it i can pull the whole assembly deck and all forward and back I provided the kit also :p and installed a JVC deck don't remember the exact model but it has aux and USB in and was Idevice ready so I got it for my iPhone. They "installed" my front door speakers also, I'll click pics of it bright and early tomorrow, that's when I'm doing this. I had an amp, but I took out my sub gear and amp and left them out, was trying to shave weight for the test & tune drag races aha

[Nit3h4wk C0uP3]

I went looking for this in my manual and couldn't find it, figured this would be a good place to put this for anyone looking for it.

[hightechredneck]

I purchased an alarm with remote start awhile ago and have not gotten around to installing it yet. (seems like that has been a trend for awhile) But now that Im graduated, and taking some time off, I plan to do the alarm this summer. Going to be interesting because I have a manual. I created (reinvented) a neutral safety switch that has been testing for awhile in the car, and so far (about a year almost) it is still functional. It is such a simple circuit, I dont understand why they do not make something like it commercially for manual transmissions.  This wiring code will help me better find the wires, the one I got from DEI's site (through a connection because they won't share) gives a rough idea but not fully.  Thanks for this :-)

~ Chris