EliteCM.net

Hey y'all,

New to EliteCM but have been on the other Accord forums for a little while now. Glad to be a new member here :)

Anyhow, I just ordered a set of Tein Basics coilovers from Mike (HEcreated487) and I've been searching all of the forums, youtube, google, etc. to find a particular How-to with pics on installing coilovers on the 7th Gens. Mike pointed me towards the How-To for lowering springs, except the one thing that I actually need (pics), is no longer hosted by the OP. I have changed out suspensions numerous times (from Tokico struts + Lowering Springs, to coilovers, to tie rod ends...) but this is my first Honda. Being that the Tein coilover design / mounting for the Honda/Acura is a lot different than what I'm used to, I'd love to find a write-up w/ pics to show which bolts to loosen/remove, the best way to access the 3 (I'm guessing...or 2?) nuts on both rear top hat mounts in the trunk compartment (I've read these are especially hard to get to on the 8G coupes), etc.

So, just if someone's come across a good write-up and possibly has bookmarked it, I'd love it if you could share that info with me! If a good one just merely doesn't exist, I'll be writing one up w/ pics as I swap out my suspension.

Thanks!

________________
Ben

I've done numerous of 7th Gen Accords, 3rd Gen TL, and 1st Gen TSX. I have it down to about 45 minutes for a complete swap. The fronts are the easiest to do in my opinion.

Fronts:

1: Rasie the car and support on jack stands. Remove the front wheels.
2: Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut fork to the strut and lower control arm. The bolt/nut is a 17mm that connects the fork to the lower control arm. The bolt that connects the strut to the fork is a 14mm. Remove the fork out. You can remove it by sliding it out of the way. If you need more clearance, push the knuckle down to get a little more clearance.
3: Remove the 5 nuts that connect the strut to the body. The 3 nuts that are on the frame are 14mm. The other 2 that holds the strut to the strut tower bar are 12mm.
4: Slide the strut out. If you need a little more clearance getting the strut out, push the knuckle upwards to relieve the tension on the upper control arm that is hanging.
5: Install in reverse order.

Rears

1: Raise car up and support on jack stands. Remove rear wheels.
2: Fold down back seat and remove the plastic rear deck cover. You will see the nuts that connect the strut to the body.
3: Remove the bolt that connects the strut to the rear knuckle. The bolt is a 17mm.
4: Remove the sway bar link nut that is connected to the knuckle. The sway bar link nut is a 14mm. You will also need a 5mm allen/hex key or socket. The nut itself tends to just spin with the joint. Place the wrench on first and then use the allen/hex key to keep the stud from spinning with the nut.
5: Remove the 2 nuts that connect the rear struts to the body. The nuts are 14mm.
6: Pry the rear knuckle down to get enough clearance to fully get the strut out.
7: Install in reverse order.

Hope this helps you out. I don't have any pictures, but I'll try next time to get some if I happen to do another strut job.

Thanks man! I really appreciate it.  :thumbsup:

This is great stuff, Ill def reference this next week. 

I vote STICKY!

GL with the install, Ben. :)... And try to take some pix while you're at it  ;D

Not a problem at all. If I happen to do a coilover or spring swap soon, I'll try to get some pics. As a tip, pre-soak those bolts in some sort of penetrating oil. One more note is if the coilovers has a flat spot on the bottem on the strut where the fork slides over, try to line up the flat spots where the bolt will slide through. If you dont line it up correctly, it will be troublesome to get the 14mm bolt to thread onto the fork to clamp down the strut.

Swapping the suspension is easy as pie on these cars.  I'll see if I can try to find something for you though.

Great advice, Thien :thumbsup: I have PB Blaster & Liquid wrench. Unfortunately with Hurricane Sandy and this horrible weather, not sure if I'm going to get them installed before winter begins... It's already starting to drop down into the 40's and as low as 30's at night. Dang I hate the North!! haha I'm moving to Hawaii w/ Mike...70s all year round haha

I will definitely be creating a How-To with many pics when I do install them though. You can never have enough informative DIY How-To's!


Awesome to hear, Tim! BTW I saw your post about coming to the 'burgh!  ;D

I may take some screen shots of the service manual or something.  I usually use the one from the TSX since I have a copy of that on my laptop.  The Accord service manual I have is a hard copy sitting in my garage, so screen shots of that aren't that great.

I was in W Mifflin last night, visiting family.  I'm up in Grove City right now.  I'll be all around the area working this week.  As long as the storm doesn't make travel too dangerous, I should be only here until Friday.

No problem at all. I've done about 20 suspension swaps involving that suspension setup.

Tim, ha that's too cool man - I was just up in Cranberry Twp today for work but only live like 20 minutes from W. Mifflin! Did you see how gone-to-shit Cent III mall has become? A real pity.

Anyhow, that TSX manual may come in handy to me now and again. These coilovers are actually the Tein Basics for the 04+ TSX (P/N DLA64-U2531) w/ proper size Fender Washers to fit the CM's rear lower knuckle.  8-)

After doing a search I can't seem to find this...but does anybody know the OEM spring rates for the 7.5G V6 coupes? I'm just curious the difference between the Teins & factory. TIA :)

I'm not sure what the spring rate is for OEM, but spring rate is only one part of the equation when it comes to ride quality/comfort.  For some sort of reference, when I swapped my OEM suspension to Tein Basics, I felt that the ride was only slightly firmer than stock but still fairly comfortable.

Great to know, Tim, that's exactly how Mike explained it to me! Can't wait to have them delivered so I can throw them on and finish her up (last mod I plan on doing for quite some time as I've done a LOT in the past 2 months I've owned her lmao)

Good stuff man.  The install should be easy as long as nothing is seized.  Wish I could give you a hand.

Haha wish you could too! It's always nice to have a buddy to work on cars with! Who else would stand there and look pretty until I tell him to go fetch me coffee? ;)

You're welcome to come out to OH if you want to do the work in a garage. The weather out here in PA sucks balls right now. I wouldn't be working outside right now.

I know! Darn hurricane Sandy had to come visit the NE instead of just staying down south! I think we can waive g'bye to that beautiful weather we were still having (70's in October? Hell yea!) Thanks for the invite Tim - I have 3 garages and a 30x60 2 story barn w/ Hydraulic lift though :thumbsup: The coils haven't arrived yet, as they're coming from Mike's house in HI. I'm sure w/ the storm mailing got delayed even more. But that's okay, because I'm also awaiting on my Ingalls camber kit to arrive (got both kits shipped for $149.12 - yeahhhh buddy).

Good call on the camber kit.

Agreed with Tim. Good call on the Ingalls rear camber kit. PRE SOAK THOSE BOLTS NOW. If not, you won't be having any fun taking those bolts off that holds the toe and lower control arm. They always gets seized. You can refer to my DIY.

Haha thanks Thien, I actually JUST did that outside before even reading your response! I soaked those mothers in some Liquid Wrench. I figured it'll be few more days, still, until the camber kit & coils arrive :thumbsup: While I was at it, I folded down my rear seats (I have a 7.5G V6 Coupe) and was trying to determine how to get to the top hat nuts...any suggestions?

Yet, you still might have to torch those bitches out, no matter how much soaking you do lol

Well, I'm really hoping I don't have a problem with getting them lose. The car only has 27k miles on her now, and has been garaged her entire life. There is like absolutely no rust underneath her :)

But...on an excellent note, one Ingalls kit down! One more to go! :thumbsup: Today was like a day of presents - I feel like a little kid on Christmas - not only did 1 Ingalls kit arrive, but so did my rear underbody spoiler mounting hardware from Sons Honda (It get lost during shipping of the original Honda box), as well as, I just ordered 4 brand new Michelin tires for a KILLER deal!

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/71AD569F-3E40-40F1-B23B-888C6F2EDCFB-8542-000006956C9BE278_zpsb0b1bc5a.jpg)

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/D321AC37-E31C-471D-8285-C6897D4A2E00-8511-00000693E533AD93_zps6cd47223.jpg)

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/94ADA7C6-CA8C-4562-BA75-A2A12314C096-8542-000006957267F3C8_zpsc71635c5.jpg)

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/8804D78B-EA6C-4671-BE27-0DA40797CE44-8542-00000695774AD10A_zps3b873d9f.jpg)

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/BB859AF1-A95B-4BAA-BA29-60AB518EC08F-8542-0000069C21B09841_zpsa0a4ac74.jpg)

I'm going to put some Anti-Seize on the camber/toe kits, as well as, the threads of my Teins when they arrive just for that extra-added protection

The way I got the top hat nuts on the rears was using a 3/8 ratchet and 14mm deep socket. It was the easiest way for me to get those off. You can lift the top rear deck up a tad to get the ratchet and socket over and just start ratcheting away.

So the rear deck just lifts up? there's nothing I need to pry off (clips), unscrew, etc?

Damn Mike, this anticipation is killing me! We should've just went for the 1 Day Hawaii to Pittsburgh special (ONLY $799.99 this time of year!)  ::)

It doesn't lift up really. Its plastic so you lift up where it covers the strut mounting bolts. From there you can wiggle in the socket and ratchet. When you lift it up, you got like another 1/2 inch of clearance to get the ratchet in there and just start ratcheting away. I'd start with the back ones first. That way you can just loosen it and unthread the rest with your hands/fingers.

Awesome, thanks for the very helpful info Thien, I appreciate it man

2nd Ingalls kit arrived today!  ;D Now just waiting on the coils...

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/778849FC-96C5-4A28-A326-985903A93338-167-000000081592EFF7_zps4f77b893.jpg)

So Thien, I went out to look at the rear deck cover again...how exactly is it removed? and just to clarify, I do in fact reach the top of the rear strut nuts from inside the car, not from inside the trunk...is that correct? (All of my prev cars you accessed from inside the trunk)

You do access from inside. I'm not sure how it is with the coupe but on the sedan, you flip the rear seats down, pop that trim off where the seat latches and you should have access.

What Z said.  Once you get the covers off the edge of the deck just kinda bends up so you can get to em... kinda hard to explain but it's pretty flexible.

Thanks for the quick response, Z! :thumbsup:
Ok I'll take you a picture tomorrow - it sounds very similar to mine. The black plastic trim that goes over the 3 car-seat hooks... But you don't have to take off the pillars, correct?

Nope. Just pop off the panel and you'll see what we mean.

Thanks Ry, I'll check it out tomorrow after work. Coilovers should be delivering on or before Friday according to USPS. Can't wait!! I've already been preparing everything for a nice & easy swap; including pre-soaking the camber/toe arm nuts so I can throw the Ingalls on at the same time - then go get an alignment

Okay, so I'm thinking that it's the bottom trim piece that needs removed in order to remove the rear deck cover and access the strut mounts...?

(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/F4FAA01A-6015-4EAD-BA07-275B7E81AA01-5421-0000065977CDABEE_zps92213e01-1.jpg)

Does the pillars or anything else need to be removed?
(http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t377/DreaminAccord/7FDBF6A1-7F12-479F-9CCF-5E9DD887BD23-5421-000006597C79EB50_zps978d9fed-1.jpg)

Just want to be 100% sure before I go taking things apart that may not need to be lol :thumbsup:

Yup, the plastic across the top just pops off and then you'll see the strut tops in the corners.

No, the pillars do not need to be removed.  Just that plastic trim across the top.

Agree with Ryan.  That plastic piece shown directly above your sub/amp in the first pick.  Looks similar in sedans.

Similar? Damn near identical.

Thanks y'all! I appreciate the clarification :)

Whoo! Coilovers finally arrived at the post office (wasn't home to sign for them) so I'll pick them up in the a.m. Will finally be able to install the coils & ingalls kit as long as the weather stays nice & I can find some time