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timot_one
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« Reply #150 on: April 12, 2010, 09:12:46 PM »

Quote from: "unclejud49348"
What is the best way to clean inbetween your seats and the center console? My girlfriends CM is trashed and I'm afraid the only way to clean under/inbetween her seats is to actually take them out, and I really don't want to do that.

Honestly, it's really not that hard to take the seats out.  It's only 4 bolts and one electrical connection.  IMHO, that's the best way to get that area clean.
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« Reply #151 on: April 13, 2010, 11:54:18 PM »

just be carefull with airbags if you have them. follow procedure how to diconect them
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asnstyle22
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« Reply #152 on: April 14, 2010, 09:37:45 PM »

if im using a LC orange pad (light cut) with my 7424 and it takes me like 5 passes to get some scratches out... does it mean i should have used like a medium cut pad instead? or does it mean i just need a stronger compound? currently using optimum compound.

also, is there a way to fix rock chips or damage from people parking into my car with their plates without repainting the whole thing?

thanks!
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Mike
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« Reply #153 on: April 15, 2010, 07:31:49 AM »

Rock chips you can use touch up paint, and then wet sand, then polish and they end up looking better but, not perfect. If people parking have actually left dents I don't know how you could fix that without some sort of filler and paint.
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« Reply #154 on: April 15, 2010, 04:47:32 PM »

Quote from: "unclejud49348"
2 Questions:

1. What is the best way to clean inbetween your seats and the center console? My girlfriends CM is trashed and I'm afraid the only way to clean under/inbetween her seats is to actually take them out, and I really don't want to do that.

2. What compound would you recommend to take out some scratches caused by a large dog? Neighbor dog jumped up on the Accord and dug his nails in all the way down. The scratches don't catch with my fingernail so I'm hoping they can be polished out instead of sanded. (I can upload pics if necessary)

BTW: Awesome thread. Lots of very useful information, thanks DI.

It depends on the exact spacing of the seat how I approach it.  If possible taking them out is the most thorough way but I've typically had very good results without needing to do this.  I start off by removing any obvious/large items that have become lost underneath the seat and on the sides.  Next move the seat either all the way back or forward.  I then get my vacuum out and I really like a long and thin attachment on it to get in to the worst areas.  If there are stains or if you just want a thorough cleaning mist the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover (or other fabric cleaner) on those areas and brush the fabric.  Now move the seat all the way in the opposite direction (forward or back) and repeat the same process on the other side.  Usually just moving the seat this much is a huge help!  The 303 cleaner is highly effective on all fabrics, I also use it to clean a lot of the remaining interior (console, doors, trim, etc.).  If you have any other questions please let me know.  

Fixing scratches depends directly on how deep it is.  I would start off with a light polish and use more aggressive ones as needed.  If that doesn't work move on to a light wet sanding followed by the polishes.  If that doesn't work you'll need some touch up work done, but they don't sound too bad.  If you need any polish recommendations please let me know.  This task can be done by hand but a buffer may also be very helpful.  

Glad to hear the posts have been helpful!  I hope this one helps as well and we look forward to hearing from you again!
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« Reply #155 on: April 15, 2010, 04:53:16 PM »

Quote from: "asnstyle22"
if im using a LC orange pad (light cut) with my 7424 and it takes me like 5 passes to get some scratches out... does it mean i should have used like a medium cut pad instead? or does it mean i just need a stronger compound? currently using optimum compound.

also, is there a way to fix rock chips or damage from people parking into my car with their plates without repainting the whole thing?

thanks!

The orange pad from Lake Country is a light to medium cutting pad and 5 passes is very normal.  I usually work a polish in for a while doing several sets of passes up and down and then left to right.  To get more cutting power I would consider making sure the speed is at 6, apply a light to medium pressure to the back of the buffer and work slowly with lots of overlapping passes.  After that you should be able to get optimal results with the products you have.  A more aggressive pad and polish could help like the yellow pad and Menzerna Power Gloss, just be sure to follow up with lighter pad and polish combos.  Additionally the PC does have it's limitations how much it can buff out.  It's possible a rotary buffer could be needed to buff out certain imperfections.  

Rock chips will need some touch up paint (followed by wet sanding and polishing) or a re-paint of that section.  If you have any other questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI
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« Reply #156 on: April 16, 2010, 09:48:25 PM »

wow, so i should have the pc running @ 6? ive been working it @ 2-3 like the bottle says..... if i run it @ 6.... how do you guys handle the vibration? i cant do more than 15min @ 4 since it vibrates like crazy and my hand goes numb.. is there a way to counter that? im running 6.5 pads and i have the 6.5 counter weight already.
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« Reply #157 on: April 16, 2010, 10:28:11 PM »

Wear a glove not so thick that you can't feel what your doing but, thick enough to help reduce the vibration.
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« Reply #158 on: April 18, 2010, 11:39:13 AM »

Quote from: "asnstyle22"
wow, so i should have the pc running @ 6? ive been working it @ 2-3 like the bottle says..... if i run it @ 6.... how do you guys handle the vibration? i cant do more than 15min @ 4 since it vibrates like crazy and my hand goes numb.. is there a way to counter that? im running 6.5 pads and i have the 6.5 counter weight already.

For best results when polishing it is critical to use the PC or Flex at speed 4 or higher.  If you are comfortable with speed 6 then go for it.  To help reduce vibration make sure the buffer is flat and apply light to medium pressure to the unit.  Another big help is when you wash the vehicle where a rubber glove so your hands stay dry.  Sometimes if my hands are a little damp or cold after washing the buffer is noticeably more difficult to hold, otherwise it doesn't bother me too much.
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« Reply #159 on: April 20, 2010, 12:13:20 AM »

Quote from: "asnstyle22"
wow, so i should have the pc running @ 6? ive been working it @ 2-3 like the bottle says..... if i run it @ 6.... how do you guys handle the vibration? i cant do more than 15min @ 4 since it vibrates like crazy and my hand goes numb.. is there a way to counter that? im running 6.5 pads and i have the 6.5 counter weight already.

should have gotten 4" pads and meguairs polisher, we have both at shop and i have meguairs and for some reason its a lot less vibrations then PC even though its same thing aperently. new pc 7424xp supposedly quieter and less vibrations. still i think g100 less vibrations and quieter.

you usualy take 1-2 minute brake between 3-4 min runs. to wipe polish and check surface for what you missed. 2-3 is for waxing and grazing. polishing is 5-6(always 6 for me. wish it was faster, but then i have rotary for faster jobs
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« Reply #160 on: April 21, 2010, 05:13:38 PM »

thanks a lot for the info, i will try again when i have a longer stretch of time off. hopefully it will be a success this time =D
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« Reply #161 on: April 27, 2010, 08:20:26 AM »

How safe is the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover for my car's paint?  I have spots on my trunk and hood that I think are water spots and no amount of waxing or claying will remove them.
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« Reply #162 on: April 27, 2010, 04:24:59 PM »

Quote from: "ikethegreat"
How safe is the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover for my car's paint?  I have spots on my trunk and hood that I think are water spots and no amount of waxing or claying will remove them.

It's pretty safe to use the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover even on your first attempt.  I wear gloves when using it and just use common sense.  It helps remove light to medium etchings pretty effectively.  If they are medium to heavy you may need to polish them to remove the imperfections.  If you want to polish I would start with a light cutting polish and use more aggressive ones as needed.  A buffer will be a huge help in working in a polish for best results.  If this process interests you please let me know.  

Greg @ DI
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« Reply #163 on: April 29, 2010, 12:50:16 AM »

hi. I was wondering whats the best way to wax ur car?.. I have always washed and waxed it but I haven't really looked in dept of how to actually properly wax my car. I have clayed my car like 2 times and since I havent done it. I would like to get Ur suggestion for a noob like me in this area. my main goal is to properly clean the car inside out.
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« Reply #164 on: April 29, 2010, 02:21:41 AM »

Quote from: "implayaz9"
hi. I was wondering whats the best way to wax ur car?.. I have always washed and waxed it but I haven't really looked in dept of how to actually properly wax my car. I have clayed my car like 2 times and since I havent done it. I would like to get Ur suggestion for a noob like me in this area. my main goal is to properly clean the car inside out.

Do some reading bro.  There are plenty of threads and links on this forum to answer your questions. BTW cleaning your car and waxing are two different things. Wax does nothing to "clean" your car, its a sacrificial layer to protect your paint.
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