EliteCM.net

I don't know how else to start this thread but to say..."yes it works".

For the performance minded people, the last thing we need is a soggy manual transmission designed for fuel economy.

I introduce you all to our new best friend: The Acura TSX 6 speed manual transmission.

So here's how this all came to be.  A friend of mine who moved out of Florida to Arizona was the first to try this.  He had a 5 speed accord and got hold of a TSX transmission for a good price.  Besides that, all he could tell me was "dude...it fits".

The 5MT/6MT swap is as easy as replacing a clutch.  All that is needed for a proper job is a new clutch/flywheel and a TSX transmission.  In all seriousness you could probably go to honda, have your car in for a clutch replacement, and while your tech is out to lunch, take your tranny off of the tranny jack and put the TSX tranny in its place, and nobody would be more the wiser.  Cosmetically they are identical.  The TSX transmission has a lightweight Magnesium case and some sporty fins to dissipate heat, but in a nutshell they look the same.  

The whole misnomer about swapping transmissions was not how they mounted to the engine, but how they mounted to the chassis.  Since the RSX-S and EP tranny bolt up by means of two upright studs on the top of the transmission, they are incompatible with the accord's box style chassis mount.  This mount is nearly identical to the TSX mount, and therefore that's why we can use the TSX tranny, and EP owners can swap to an RSX-S tranny.

Since this thread isn't about clutch choice we won't go there.  Another tidbit of information that would be useful to those wishing to swap is the fact that we can use any clutch designed for an RSX-S provided that you swap over to an RSX-S OEM or aftermarket flywheel.  The accord flywheel is 20.5lbs...heavy.  The RSX-S flywheel is 14.5lbs....quite a bit lighter for the price.  You can also opt to use any RSX-S aftermarket flywheel such as the ACT prolite (9lb) or streetlite (12lb), but honestly for my purposes, paying $100 for two pounds of difference isn't really worth it....plus I'm an OEM freak.

THE NITTY GRITTY ENGINEERING STUFF THAT NOBODY UNDERSTANDS

The following tables are reproduced/modified from Gen7accord.com, and all kudos go to Wcroswell2 and Eccen for providing this information.

Accord 5MT    
1st - 3.267        
2nd - 1.769      
3rd - 1.147        
4th - 0.872        
5th - 0.659      
       
Reverse - 3.583
Final Drive - 4.389


TSX 6MT
1st -3.267
2nd -1.880
3rd -1.355
4th -1.028
5th -0.825
6th -0.659

Reverse -3.583
Final Drive -4.760

Just a brief crash course in gear ratios: The higher the number, the shorter the gear.  The lower the number, the longer the gear.  There's a lot more to it than that, but I'm still learning about this stuff too!

The first table shows the gear ratios for the Accord's 5 speed manual transmission, and the TSX's 6 speed manual transmission.  The TSX and accord share the same first gear size, but that's where the similarities stop.  You can see the differences abruptly in the gear size differences between transmissions.  The accord's gears are noticeably longer than the TSX's.  The TSX gears are close together, with the biggest gap being between first and second gear.  The accord shows a similar gap, but the final drive difference makes all the gears longer.  It's also interesting to note that the accord's 5th gear is the same as the TSX's 6th gear.  The TSX's differential makes every gear shorter, so that's why you'll be pushing out 3500RPM's at 80mph instead of 3000 with the Accord tranny.  

In addition, here are the gear ratios for all Acura K series 6MT's

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/MJ23FE/Tranny%20Gear%20Calculations/K-SeriesTransmissionTablev3-28-08re.jpg)

Thanks goes out to Jalal Zahr over at K20a for this fantastic table.  THANK YOU JALAL!

FAIR WARNING TO THOSE WHO SWAP TRANSMISSIONS

Your speedometer will be off by approximately 10% (Fast) due to some issue with the gearing and what the gauge cluster is calibrated to see.  My rule of thumb is to subtract 10mph from whatever the speedometer says.  When my speedo says I'm doing 90mph, I assume that I am doing approximately 80mph.  This will result in your odometer reading going up faster than it should.  The vaughn class action suit brought about to honda in years past has already discredited the accuracy of honda's speedometers, so this is just something else to add into the mix.  One member of Gen7accord.com by the name of Daich found a solution from an S2000 parts website.

http://modifry.com/products/yj/index.htm

This is the website to purchase the unit that Daich used to correct his speedometer.  I have not attempted to use this device, and have no opinion on its claims or fitness for the purpose (seeing as it's cross platform), but if it works, you can't really knock it!  Any comments, questions, or concerns should be directed to Daich on Gen7accord.com, as he is the only member that I know of who has installed and calibrated one of these devices.  With his permission, I will augment this guide with his instructions for installation and calibration of this device.

ADVANCED MODIFICATION AND SPECULATION

Limted slip differential upgrade:
The TSX transmission can be upgraded with a Quaife or OBX limited slip differential.  This will hamper wheelspin and transfer power better to the road with a minimal loss in traction.  Quaife and OBX LSD's have both been proven to fit in the Accord 5MT transmission, so they should (by series association) fit the TSX transmission.  

Gear/Case swapping
So you've got a TSX transmission, but would like shorter gears??? There are two viable solutions.  The easiest would be to install a shorter final drive gearset which will effectively shorten all gears.  Several options exist.  Final drive kits can be found at JHPUSA.com.  As for their installation, I'm clueless...but you should be able to modify the transmission with the help of a reputable shop or a technically inclined friend.

The second option for shorter gears would be swapping gearsets out with an RSX-S.  I have never seen this done (though it may have been).  Technically speaking, the only difference between the RSX-S tranny and TSX tranny besides the gearsets is the case design.  As mentioned earlier, the transmission housing mounts to the chassis differently, so the question begs to be asked "What if I were to swap internals?".  In conceptual theory, it's possible.  In practicality, it may or may not work.  The closest I'll come to doing this is attempting to swap out my 2nd gear for an RSX-S replacement.  This will make my first and 2nd gear identical to an RSX-S, and improve acceleration slightly in that gear range.  


PICTURES!!!

Here are some pictures from my own install.  I performed my swap at work.  It me about 8 hours to swap the transmission (I had help at the end).  I didn't have a dedicated camera-man so there are only a few pics from my install. Tim was the dedicated camera-man for his install, so he has a few more pictures of the ASP crew (Luis, Chris, and Myself) installing his new transmission.

Here are my pictures:

This picture was taken right after the old transmission was removed.  The old clutch assembly was still in place.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/thedeke/P1200011.jpg)

Here is the new clutch assembly.  I installed an OEM RSX-S Flywheel, and an ACT heavy duty street clutch.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/thedeke/P1200013.jpg)

Lastly, here's the shot that proves it all happened: The transmission's VIN plate!
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/thedeke/P4270036.jpg)

Here are the pics from Tim's install.

The TSX transmission received from Cham's distributer
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2432.jpg)

The ASP crew (Luis = Angry Spic, Chris = Angry White, and Skippy = Angry skinny kid with beard).
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2463.jpg)

Me taking stuff apart up top.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2433.jpg)

The engine cradle is attached.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2439.jpg)

Me messing with the steering rack.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2446.jpg)

Me installing the subframe jack.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2440.jpg)

Luis getting ready to pull the subframe down.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2443.jpg)

Luis and Chris pulling the tranny.  Me assisting with prybars.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2450.jpg)

It's out!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2451.jpg)

Luis installing the ACT clutch.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2460.jpg)

torque spec!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/TSX%20Tranny%20Swap/IMG_2462.jpg)

After that, the install was pretty much the reverse of removal. :)

You want my pictures from when you did my tranny swap Skippy?

Sure dude, throw them in post #1.

Great write up Skippy.  Tons of great information.  I'd also like to add that I would not have my tranny swap if it wasn't for you.

But, I have to say something about the speedo being off.  Since I have been able to pace myself at multiple speeds with my GPS, I have found that my speedo is 20% faster than my actual speed.  The 10 MPH quick and dirty math works just fine, but what I use for fast calculation is that I add 5 MPH ever 25 MPH.  I.E. - when my speedo says I'm going 30 MPH, I'm actually going 25 MPH; when my speedo says I'm going 60 MPH, I'm actually going 50 MPH; when my speedo says I'm going 90 MPH, I'm actually going 75 MPH.  I've tested this numerous times and done the math.  Basically, you are going 15% slower than what your speedo says, or your speedo is 20% faster than your actual MPH.

Hey guys, I was talking to a tech over at my Honda dealer about the speedo issue and he told me the easiest correction is to use the spline(?)/ gear from the accord gear case for your speedo to read correctly. Is there any truth to that?

I'm not sure if that will work, but last weekend I installed the Modifry Yellowjacket.  It is interfaced with my kpro harness so my OEM harness didn't need to be cut.  It took a little bit to adjust, but works like a charm.

I just read my post and realized I was a bit vague. I meant the spline/ gear from the accord vss. And the tech was asst. Svc mgr  Hope that clears that up.

That sounds like an interesting idea but I'd need to see the schematics and determine what I'd need to do in there.

I'm going to be heading over to the dealer in the next couple of days, so maybe I can ask him to elaborate further. Thing is, he's a domestic tuner and he's tuned Supras as well. Supposedly, that's one of the things they did to correct the issue whenever it came up.

Cool.  I doubt they'll give you the schematics, but I can look them up.  Tell your contact that I'm an Acura employee who has access to honda IN and if he points me in the direction to look, I can find out what to do.  I can then look up the schematics and give a 3rd party procedure on what would need to be done.  I can't post the data in its pure form because it would be a breech of contract for me, but I'll see what I can paraphrase and elaborate upon.

Anything you get is always a huge help. I'll see what my guy can do and possibly help a percentage of what you contribute.

Alright. I just talked to my guy today and he said the VSS should be a straight swap. As far as confirming if they are calibrated for their respective transmissions/ vehicles, he couldn't say if it'll work. He even checked with his shop foreman, and he wasn't sure. I guess the only way to find out is to swap in your old VSS and see if that fixes the problem. I tried looking for the parts to cross reference the PN,s but couldn't find them.

For the amount of time, money, and trouble it would take to go through all that bullshit, the Modifry Yellowjacket would have paid itself off ten times over.

Not really. He told me the VSS is mounted on the top of the tranny near the firewall. I would like to do it, but considering I still have drivetrain warranty and I'm broke as hell, I kind of can't. But this would be an option since both trannies would be available to me once I do it.

I've switched the VSS, it's incredibly simple. In order to make all of this work, you will need the correct ECU (to read the gear) but in this case you're switching the gear which helps things out. All you do is take out the thing which is a magnet and reads the spline. If you need more detailed instructions on that, I can walk you through it. Sorry this is brief, I'm being yelled at.

Kinda sounds like what I was talking about. Whenever you can elaborate some more, that would be great.

Swapping the Vehicle Speed Sensor does not work!!

I've done it on both TSX tranny swaps that I've worked on, and the speed difference is the same!

If you'll look at the DIY, you'll find out that the TSX's 6th gear and the Accord's 5th gear are the same size.  The only difference is with the Final Drive.  That's why the car sits 500+ RPM higher at highway speed than with the Accord tranny.  The cluster interprets the signal like it was the longer Accord FD and since it is spinning faster, the cluster shows what the accord's speed SHOULD be with a stock FD spinning that fast.  I know that's why it happens because the modifry module alters the signal going to the cluster because it's a variable resistor.  TSX and Accord clusters are not interchangeable so that option is out.  The only real solution at this point is the modifry module.  I opted not to install one because even though the cause for doing so is appropriate, it would be a nightmare to prove in court if you were accused of mileage fraud.  I'm a paranoid little kid and I know that I could prove why I needed it, I just choose not to.

I may just get over it and install one, but it all depends on if I get over it...

Skippy, you should install the Modifry Yellowjacket on your k pro harness so nobody would question that you tampered with your VSS.  I know you're hesitant to modify your VSS on your stock harness, but there are other legitimate reasons to tap your VSS.

Well I guess I get a big fat FAIL then. Oh well, I tried.

It's np, cracker.  It's good that you at least got me to think about other solutions.

I know this for a fact how the speed is read through your speedo.

VSS reads the third gear rotating in your transmission. It then sends this signal to the ECU which then interprets that signal to a variable output in the cluster. When I changed over from AT, I needed to replace all of these in order to get the new correct signal.

Why this won't work for the TSX6MT in the Accord reading the correct speed.

- The final drive is different (and for that matter, the 3rd gear spline)
- It is not viable to replace the Accord ECU with a TSX ECU
- The clusters are not interchangeable

If you could do all of the above, then you could get the correct speed. HOWEVER, which is something I'm trying to do when I swap to the TSX6MT. You can get a TSX VSS which then routs a signal into your Kpro. Kpro will interpret the correct speed. From there, splice the output wire of the VSS signal into the cluster and you can do all of this without purchasing the Yellowjacket Modifry to do so.

I know this will work because my Kpro reads the correct signal while my AT ECU reads the incorrect signal. The rest is just splicing the wires into your cluster (or in my soon to be case, an Autometer Speedo!)  

Good input Mike! I can't wait to see your new setup!!

i was thinking about a clutch, flywheel and lsd upgrade and was wondering if there was a specific lsd for the accord? arent all k-series transmission parts interchangeable? i was thinking about using an obx lsd for a rsx-s

I'm pretty sure that most K Series transmission internals are similar and swappable.  Cham is running an OBX LSD in his 5MT right now and I know he has installed these in TSX 6MTs also.  I will ask him about this tomorrow when I see him.

thanks

this is really interesting shit.

Try driving it every day..."interesting" becomes "amazing".

wow 6 speed swap this is good stuff!

Where have you been dude i've had one for like 3 years now...

This looks like a pretty extreme job for my garage (I don't have one, lol). I guess I'd have to take it to a shop.

How much did that tranny cost? I assume labor was free considering you and your co-workers did it?

The transmissions go from anywhere between $600-1400 depending on where you buy.  I spent $860 on mine because it had like 60k miles on it and it was local.  The labor was indeed free when I did my swap.  I did it in a day.  Got the old tranny out by lunchtime and had a few friends help me put the new tranny in.

note: there will be a bunch of nuts and bolts missing, so you will be running back and forth between the dealerships and/or auto parts stores.

If you are strapped for cash and you want new parts, you can go to http://www.hondapartsnow.com/ (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/) to order the parts. Just take the part #'s listed below and copy and past iit in the "search by part number" at the top left of Hondapartsnow web-site. I have compared their price to a lot of the other Honda parts dealers and their price is usually cheaper than most. If you find a cheaper place, feel free to post it here.
Some of the parts like the clutch, brake pedal, shift console/base, shift linkage can be bought used but the wheel bearing and hubs, passenger side axles will need to be new.

parts list:
5 or 6 speed transmission from a K20 or K24.

either a K20 or K24 clutch kit and flywheel. (cannot mix and match. has to be either K20 clutch and flywheel or K24 clutch and flywheel)

R side Axle for MT.
44305-SDA-A51     DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
   
R side Hubs wheel bearings for MT.
44300-SDA-A52     BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK)
44600-SDA-A10    HUB ASSY., FR.

Engine Harness for MT (I think this is optional since I think I read it somewhere, somebody rewired their At harness and it worked for them.)
32112-RAA-A00     SUB-WIRE, ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
32110-RAA-A00     WIRE HARNESS, ENGINE

MT. clutch pedal.
46910-SDA-A01     PEDAL, CLUTCH

MT. brake pedal.
46600-SDA-A03     PEDAL ASSY., BRAKE

Clutch lines (hard and soft lines) master cylinder, slave cylinder.
46911-S70-003     PIN, LOCK (8MM)
46920-S7A-A02    MASTER CYLINDER ASSY., CLUTCH
46941-S5A-003    CONNECTOR, CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
46960-SDA-A04    PIPE A, CLUTCH
46961-SDA-A02    HOSE, CLUTCH
46968-SDP-A02    BRACKET B, CLUTCH PIPE
46970-SDA-A01    PIPE B, CLUTCH
46995-SDA-A02    BRACKET A, CLUTCH PIPE
90651-538-000    CLIP, BRAKE HOSE
93403-06016-08    BOLT-WASHER (6X16)
94050-08080

Transmission mount
50670-SDA-A12     BRACKET, TRANSMISSION MOUNT (UPPER) (MT)
50850-SDA-A10    RUBBER, FR. TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (LOWER) (MT)
50860-SDA-A12    RUBBER, RR. TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (LOWER) (MT)
50870-SDA-A02    RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (UPPER)
50875-SDA-A11    PLATE, TRANSMISSION MOUNT STOPPER (UPPER)

MT. shift linkage
54310-SDA-L02     WIRE, CHANGE
24601-RAP-010     STAY, CHANGE WIRE

MT. shift console base
54100-SDA-A01     LEVER SUB-ASSY., CHANGE


*not finished*

There's already a 5AT to 6MT swap thread Wai. If you want to contribute a parts list, do so instead of opening up a new thread. I'll go ahead and mash the two together.

now this being a swap thread for the tsx 6spd, can we swap ratios from other K series transmissions? say take the ratios from the RSX-S or new Civic Si and put them into our trans case?

There is a discrepancy with the information stated.  K20 transmissions (namely the K20a2 / K20zX RSX-S transmission) will not bolt up to an Accord chassis.  Only TSX and Accord EURO-R transmissions will swap into a 7th generation Accord.

well what im trying to figure out is if we could take the internals from the RSX-S trans, and throw them into our trans case in place of the stock gears?

I was not responding to your question when I stated that information was incorrect, I was replying to wai_pang's information.  He states that any K20 transmission may be used for 6MT swaps, which is incorrect except for one.

You're better off swapping to a Euro-R transmission than trying to see if you can swap internals.  The Euro-R transmixer has the exact same gear ratios as the RSX-S, but in addition also has a shorter final drive AND a limited slip differential..the gears WILL be shorter than an RSX-S, and you will have an LSD without having to go third party.

One member on the old G7A (asnstyle if i'm not mistaken) swapped to a Euro-R transmission.  The chart says that the Euro-R has a K20, but fits in a CL7 chassis which leads me to believe that either the chart is wrong, or Honda designed this K20 transmission with a case that bolts up to the TSX chassis.  If I am correct, this is THE ONLY K20 transmission that will fit an Accord.  I am kicking myself for not finding one of these...If I do...I'm swapping..again.

I believe your assumption is correct Skippy.  As I recall, you taught me that the reason why the TSX tranny will work and the RSX-S and Civic Si tranny will not is because of the mounts.  Since the CM5/CM7/CL7/CL9 all use the same mounts, the assumption would be that even though the CL7 has a K20 motor, the transmission will still fit.  It's a good thing our cars are like legos.

(http://www.seankenney.com/portfolio_images/Cars/Honda-S2000/2.jpg)

(http://audioseek.net/~hiryu/4chan/picard-expression.jpeg)

ahhh alright i gotcha. i'll just have to wait and see what all happens with my car. i want to do this but dont know if i will DO it.

That, I did not know or was even considering. is it just the motor mount that don't bolt up to the chassis or is there more that?

I know that the transmission mount definitely does not line up.  What I'm also unsure of, which may be another issue, is if you need different or custom axles or or midshaft.

I should be doing this in the near future, don't you also have to run a wire from your brake lights to the transmission because of the whole "not throwing the car in reverse when your trying to go to 6th gear"?? Thanks

You can wire up the reverse lock out any way you want.  You can wire it to a switch or you can wire it to your brake lights.  It's not 100% necessary.  I've had mine without the reverse lock out wired up for over 2 years without issue.  You just have to pay attention while you're driving. 

Cool.....thanks man

I have two questions about this.  First:  Do I need to get anything else to perform this swap,  like bolts for the flywheel or anything?  And can I pull the transmission out from the top, because I dont have access to a lift, but I do have a cherry picker?  thanks everyone!

Well, if your clutch doesn't have a release bearing, you'll need one of those.  Make sure you have grease/lube also.  I forget what Paul uses, but he's had good results with that.  You can reuse your flywheel bolts, but if you want to be anal, they're not expensive to replace.  If you don't have a lift and an engine brace, using a cherry picker to pull the motor is your 2nd best option.  You have to pull the motor and transmission together though.  You won't be able to pull the transmission out alone. 

the transmission wont come out seperate from the motor?

Nope.  There's not enough room to get it out from the top.  You'd be making the job a lot more difficult if you tried it that way. 

Cool....thanks for the info man.  I actually have use of a lift so I will be putting the tranny in from underneith

Hopefully you have an engine brace.  It's something that mounts to your shock towers and bolts to the back of your head to hold your engine in place so you can drop your sub frame. 

for the rsx-s clutch n flywheel is there a certain year i wanna be looking into? and the same goes for the tsx tranny, my car is an 07....and if anyone knows of a tranny LMK lol

The RSX Type S flywheel is the same for all years.  The part number for the flywheel is 22100-RBC-003.  All K Series trannys will bolt up to all K Series blocks.  The main thing you need to be concerned about is whether it will fit in your chassis.  You need to use an 04-08 TSX tranny since the CL and CM chassis are similar enough.

I know a guy that's selling a complete K24A2 long block and tranny that's located in MI.  I'll ask him if he's willing to sell the tranny separately and ship it.  What were you looking to pay for it?

well i found an 04 tsx 6spd at my boys yard in the bx he sed theyve got it for 1400, but hell gimme it for a G...

That's cool.  How many miles are on it?

he didn't say, but I've gotta few more questions about the swap....if i wanna do a lighter then OEM type-s flywheel with a exedy stage 1 clutch is there any point in using the rsx-s set up or shud I just use tsx clutch n flywheel? and if so wit clutch alignment tool do i use....also I've got brass shifter bushings, ss clutch line, and a short throw adapter, can all this be swapped/reused with the new tranny? and do i need to change any linkages or the shifter box?

Realistically, you don't want anything lighter than the RSX Type S flywheel for a daily driver.  It's 14 lbs, which is a significant reduction compared to the 22.5 lb Accord flywheel.  You're better off getting the RSX Type S flywheel anyway, because there are more aftermarket clutch options for the RSX Type S compared to the Accord/TSX.

All the other stuff you have can be reused.  You don't need to do anything but change the tranny.  The clutch and flywheel are just a nice upgrade.  Any clutch alignment tool will work.  They're all the same for your purposes.

aright cool tim thanks, I'm still in the process of getting my funds up but i wanna get this all figured out so i know wuts gotta be done...i will go with the rsx-s exedy stage 1 clutch but I'm gonna continue to think about flywheel options cause i really don't care at all about it being my DD, i just want more performance out of it and i like having the extra advantage of the lighter flywheel...

As long as you're okay with revving your motor a lot higher to get moving from a full stop, then go for it. The lower mass of a lighter flywheel may help improve throttle response, but for street driving it's not exactly practical. I wouldn't go much lighter than the Type S flywheel. If you're actually serious about performance, you should probably spend your money on other things than a lightened flywheel.

well i dont have much money to do anything lol but i figure while ive got the opportunity i shud do it right thats all

If it were me, I'd get the RSX Type S flywheel.  It's 8.5 lbs lighter than stock.  That's more than 1/3 the weight of the stock K24 flywheel.  It's a great balance of being lighter than stock, but not so lightweight that you have to rev your motor to 4k before you engage the clutch just to get moving.

ahhhhh well if its like that then youve got a point haha

I don't know everything, but I try to give practical advice.

sooooo my tsx 6spd swap is complete, its been in the car for about 2 weeks now and i love it! it took about 8hrs total, we split it between 2 days, i used the rsx-s exedy stage 1 organic clutch and an act streetlite 11.5lbs flywheel and i must say i cudnt be happier, drivability hasnt been effected at all, im just trying to figure out wut to do with this damn speedo issue, i contacted k-tuned and im waiting to hear back from them, theyve got a few similar products that i wanna see if any will work for me

The only real option you have at this point is a module made by Modifry called the Yellow Jacket.  That's what I have for my car to correct the speedo, currently.  It's what S2000 guys use when they swap out the diff for a shorter final drive.  Essentially, that's what you've done since you went from the Accord 4.3 fd to the TSX 4.7 fd.

Tim wut years did u get that y.b. for?   This is it right? http://modifry.com/products/yj/index.htm (http://modifry.com/products/yj/index.htm)

There's only one version. Those links are for installation manuals for the AP1 and AP2. The yellow jacket is the same regardless of what year the car was manufactured.

aaahh ok, thanks man

Is the install of the yellow jacket any different in my 07 then the s2k? I just got mine in the mail today

It shouldn't be.  From what I recall, it's a 5v power signal, ground, and vss from the ECU and vss to the gauge cluster.

so my buddy tried to install it for me but cudnt find a pin out on the internet, i think thats wut he called it, he didnt wanna touch anything without knowing wut it was but cant seem to find wut he needs anywhere on the internet...could someone possibly take a picture of where they spliced the wires in? that wud be a HUGE help, ive racked up a good 6-7 thousand miles on the odometer in less then 2 months that the tranny has been in  :'(

I think Tim would be the only guy that could. He's the only person I know of that has it.

It's 4 wires on the ECU harness.  All you need is 5v, ground, and the vss input and output.  You basically tap into one wire on the ECU for 5v and then you cut the VSS wire and run the input to the harness side and output to the ECU side of the wire you just cut.

The mechanic couldn't find the VSS wire?  Does he not know how to use a DMM or read a service manual?

My buddy did get it to work when i finally dragged my buddy over n we got the speedo calibrated nice now, i had a question though a buddy of mine is interested in doin a 6spd swap as well and he was wondering if a 04 type s tranny would work since hes got one

The guts would but the case won't.

The tranny will bolt to the block, but it will not mount to your chassis.  You would have to swap the internals and re-use the Accord case.

I am currently having this done..
My 5mt took a complete crap...I really have no idea what happened, but i am told the internal bearing broke off? and it destroyed the casing inside...the guy recommended a rebuilt transmission..
I told him to just go ahead and drop in a 6 speed TSX transmission with a decent clutch kit.
Since this is an auto repair chain, I am paying around $2200 for a rebuilt transmission, $425 for the clutch kit and around $600 for the labor. We're taking no short cuts and I had the guy order Modifry Yellowjacket and wire the reverse lockout.

I think he was lied to by the transmission rebuilders, they are telling him that it has LSD, but after researching a little, Ive realized the TSX does not come with this differential...I will try to get him to lower the price a bit because of this...but deep inside, im hoping the rebuilders put LSD on there for sh*ts and giggles...

The TSX does NOT have a LSD.  It only comes with an open differential.  Unless the rebuilder installed an aftermarket LSD for performance reasons (highly unlikely), it's an open diff.

Tim,

I doubt the rebuilders installed limited slip diff...the owner of the transmission shop said he called and confirmed, but i doubt some transmission rebuilding company will just randomly throw that diff on there..Unless they are performance minded...Ill have the owner of the shop check again once the tranny is here.

Anyways, hope this all turns out well..i miss driving my car..

Definitely make sure they don't over charge you.  Sometimes shops will pad things so they can charge you more.  It sucks when you deal with dishonest people.

Today is the day I'm supposed to get my car back...took long enough.. I'm told to call by 10 am..
I've been driving my dads weekend tank...Its a 2004 Ford Expedition NBX...It HANDLES like sedan! but its HUGE!!! feels like I'm in a monster truck it's supposed to have some crazy suspension setup from factory...sadly it only gets 8-10 mpg with the 5.4..and I've been dailying it...

NEED MY ACCORD BACK!

I will tell you all what it feels like, hopefully they got the job done right...from what I've read, it should be too tough for a professional shop..but there are mad mechanics everywhere!

You're doing the AT to MT conversion, or just a 5 speed to 6 speed?

It's a 5 to 6spd conversion.
I just got my car back. Let me tell you how  ??? I was when I did my first (conservative) pull.
There is definitely a huge difference!
I recommend this swap for any enthusiast that plans on keeping their accord for another 2-3 years.

Obviously every year pulls harder. Even 6th feels like it's pulling harder than my old 5th.

That's what happens when you go from a 4.3 final drive to a 4.7 final drive.  That's why a lot of the road race guys swap in 5.0-6.0 final drives in their track cars.

Thanks Tim,

It was this thread that helped me make the right decision.

Do you know about Sachs clutch? Apparently their brand clutch and flywheel are mated to the transmission.
The pedal feels softer than before, but works fine.

Never heard of Sachs.  I have only used ACT (would not recommend) and Competition Clutch.  All of my clutches have been heavy.  I would love a light pedal, but that doesn't happen with high hp cars.