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Well, ever since my drive up from Miami 6 months ago where I inadvertently drove through a pothole that could've swallowed a Focus during NYC traffic, I've had this annoying clunk sound on my front PS corner. At first, I blamed the coils based on other complaints from F2 owners. Replaced it under warranty. Checked the shock I replaced. No blown seals, the piston compressed and returned perfectly which means the shock wasn't blown. Problem persisted. Started going through my suspension the usual way: visual, moving anything and everything I could to find play, applying pressure to ball joints, etc. Found nothing. I did happen to find a broken PS engine mount which usually causes the sound. Replaced it with a new OEM mount thanks to AFH. Sound persists. Ran through all nuts and bolts I've touched since owning the car and even some I haven't messed with. All snug. I'm at a loss as to the cause of the sound.

Cliffs notes-front PS clunk sound, nothing broken, all parts torqued down, broken parts replaced,  :confused:

OEM top hats or did they come on your suspension?  I've broken those before on a pot hole in CT and it caused that clunk.  Another thing to look at is your sway bar bushings.

They came with top hats. I didn't think of the sway bar bushings. From the reading around I've done, people have reported broken endlinks, broken ball joints and shit like that. I don't have either. I'll throw it on the lift today or tomorrow and check out the sway bar bushings. I don't think they'd be the problem but its worth a shot. Maybe I'll drag my brother with me so its another set of eyes looking.

Double check the top hat too.  With the front end up in the air, just grab the top bolt for the shock nut and see if there's movement.

Ive noticed a bit of a clunk with my F2s too... when does yours do it?  Just when you hit bumps?

I'll give that a go. I did hit that top nut with an impact yesterday as the F2's don't have the same center allen like the OEM struts do so there was only so much tightening I could do on that nut with hand tools. That nut is now tight. Obviously, that didn't take care of it.
Yup. I read somewhere that its loose hardware on the struts from others' experience. Mine were solid until that fateful day in NYC.

Actually, if the top hat is damaged, you can tighten that nut till kingdom come and you'll still have the clunk. What you're looking for is damage to the top hat.

Don't tell me that. That means I'd at least have to pull the strut to check the top hat. FML.

Just set the car on fire. Anything that remains intact was not a cause of the problem. As far as the things that turned to ash... well, time to replace them.  :thumbsup:

Is the clunk a metal on metal sound, or could it maybe be the tire hitting the fender when going over the bump? Just throwing some ideas out there. Maybe the fender got knocked loose over that bump. Although I'm sure you would have already noticed it by now. So it's probably not that, lol.

I had the same exact clunk A few years ago. It ended up being the front sway bar bushing (I had TL-S bars installed).

I guess you ignored what I said earlier in the thread then. Gimme a call if you want any clarification. ;)

I actually tried what you said earlier Tim. I gave the undercarriage a thorough going over and still can't find anything wrong. The driver's side fsb bushing looked a little worn but nothing obvious. Again, nothing broken. Nothing loose. It's driving me insane!

I thought about this with mine... the bushing looks a bit funny, like its not set in right...

Is the spring seated properly?

Yup.

Are you 100% positive that that shock isn't blown?  If everything else checks out then the shock has to be the culprit. Maybe they just rebuilt your shock under warranty instead of sending out a new one.  Who knows with all of the crazy cost cutting measures companies are doing now.  I'd be highly frustrated also.  Sorry.

Actually, they sent me a new one. I still have the original shock.

I went and ordered a new top mount per Tim's experience. Granted, I'm not running OEM top mounts but it was the cheapest part for me to replace and not feel bad for doing it. If this shit doesn't do it, I'm attacking the compliance bushings with new urethane ones. If I have to replace, might as well upgrade.

Who makes urethane compliance bushings?

I had seen a link for it on v6p. When I get to my computer, I'll get it for you.

Tim, here's the thread on those bushings: v6p bushing review (http://www.v6performance.net/forums/7g-honda-accord-wheels-tires-suspension-discussion/217014-polyurethane-control-arm-bushings-review.html)

Update: replaced my compliance bushings with new polyfilled OEM ones and all is good. Had to cut off my end links which I really didn't want to do but had no choice.

So you replaced only the compliance bushings and the end links?

And a couple of broken studs. The end links was because I had to cut them off.

Glad you got it resolved, Z. :thumbsup:

As am I. The only noise I get now are from those stupid sharp bumps that every one with a lowered vehicle knows and loves.

Swaybar busings/endlinks???????

Nah. Control arm knock at highway speed on bumps that would be considered speed bumps in most parking lots. The DOT does a shitty job at "repairing" the highways up here.

New update:I still have the clunk. I had the car on the lift the other day to replace a wheel and took a look at the recently replaced compliance bushings. They are just fine. The poly is holding up perfectly. I did discover my inner cv boot is torn so you can imagine the mess of grease I have in there. Not fun. I noticed I still had the clunk prior to discovering my inner boot being torn.

Another update. Replaced my PS axle and upper strut mount and I still have the clunk. It seems to have gotten more violent. I can't keep throwing parts at this but I'm even more at a loss than before.

Are you absolutely sure your upper control arm is not making contact with the bottom of the strut tower? Also same for the lower control arm in the subframe? I can see with you being fairly lowered reaching the limits for the suspension design, I actually had a customer who was soooooo low the locking nut in his ingalls camber kit busted thru the metal in the strut tower.........

Absolutely certain. If that were the case, the DS would be doing it as well. My drop is about 2.5" (right at the tread). Like I said before, this didn't start until my drive north from Miami. My ride height hasn't changed since before I moved. The only thing that did change, besides the recent parts changing, were my wheels from something aggressive to a set that is considerably less aggressive.

Have you checked the mid subframe mount? it is the one near the axel and is held in with 2 14mm head bolts to the subframe and 1 17mm head bolt5 to the chassis.

I gave it a look over but not a thorough check. I'm going to throw her on the jack this afternoon and check that out.

Is #11 the one you're talking about Paul? P/N - 50280-SDA-A01
(http://www.hondapartsnow.com/diagrams/large/front-sub-frame-rear-beam-466235.png)

Yes, he means #11/12 in the picture.

That's what I figured but needed to confirm. That little mount looks so unassuming and I can't imagine it being the problem. I guess I'll find out later this afternoon if the sky doesn't fall on me.

I'm just trying to think of "non-common" parts that could be making the noise described.

I'd also look at 22,23 as well as the rubber mount for the down pipe.

Funny you mention 22 and 23. I actually did pop those two off and had a look at them as they are pretty odd looking parts. No broken rubber or anything physically wrong with them.

Those are weights to reduce vibration.  Mine have been long gone for a while now.  You can remove them if you want, but you may get more engine vibration if you do.

That's what they looked like to me and didn't look like they served much of a purpose IMO. I threw them back on since they were already there and not disturbing anything. Later on down the road, I may just take them off for that JDM weight reduction.

More weight reduction than taking a dump.

Damn right! And I take a dump on the regular!

Just pulled that mount. No dice. Damn thing is fine.

You sure you're just not hearing things? Did you check the other side at all? Or are you just concentrating on the passenger side?

Positive. I hit sharp bumps with passenger side only and it happens. I hit with driver's side, silence.

Hey you can come by this weekend so we can check out your suspension then you can help me replace the bushings on mine, deal?

I was just thinking about off the wall obscure parts that may be causing my issue. What's to say that #'s 3, 4, 5/6, 7, 8, 9/10, 31, 32 or 41 haven't failed? I don't know why it occurred to me now instead of sooner but if what was suggested has been replaced or is intact, what's to say one of those corners isn't bouncing around? Follow my thought process?

I think your be able to tell if any of those bolts have failed and cracked with a visual inspection.

3 and 7 are bushings that are pressed into your sub frame.  4 and 8 are sandwiched between your sub frame and chassis.  If any of the bolts are loose, it might cause it.  You should check them and make sure they are torqued properly.

I'm going to have to put it up on the rack again and check it out. I don't see how ANY of those bolts could've come loose as I've never broken them free in the last 4.5 years but since I've exhausted every other option, why not right?

Another report. All hardware as tight as it came from the factory. I took out those two hunks of steel that probably weigh a total of 10 lbs just for shits and giggles. No thing. I even took the mechanic that did my wheel balancing yesterday for a quick run around the block on a bumpy road and had him scratching his head after telling him everything I've done. Anybody got some thermite to donate to me?

Get rid of the car. It's defective.

You should take your own advice.

Hahaha, seriously tho, lets take a step back for a sec. This started on your trip from FL last year, when u did your compliance bushing it stopped temporarily which would seem like something that you took off during that installation may be the culprit, but you've been through that. Ok now let's ingore the suspension, could it be something under the hood on that side? Upper tie bar hitting something, lose windshield washer fluid bottle, etc. i know it's a stretch, but what else?

One thing that mechanic suggested to rule out a possibly defective PS engine mount (which for some strange reason, I'm still leaning towards that) is to disconnect it from the block. I could still drive on it, albeit temporarily through the neighborhood (which you've seen how bumpy those streets are Rich) and see if the noise persists. Like you said, its a stretch but I have no hair to pull out of my skull at this point.

Thermite is easy to make, did it once just for shits and giggles.........

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Thermite (http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Thermite)

Don't tempt me Paul.

(http://play.esea.net/global/media_preview.php?url=http://images.starcraftmazter.net/4chan/for_forums/this_thread_again.jpg)

I haven't tried disconnecting my PS mount yet but I had some thoughts on what else could be the cause. I know you can check for ball joint play by grabbing the wheel on opposing sides and give it a shake and go around the wheel looking for more play somewhere. Things is, I've done that and get no movement but what's to say a ball joint isn't busted? Any other ways of checking save for dismantling of the suspension? The problem has amplified since my last post and it seems that any irregularities in the road causes the noise but of course its pretty quick and painful if I were to go over a road that's textured like fucking cobblestones. Ideas?

Use a pry bar between the lower control arm and spindle/knuckle.

That's what I'm thinking of doing. I've also read of people using a large pry bar/ 2 x 4 under the tire while jacked up and checking the same thing.

Maybe someone will see something I don't.
Lower ball joint (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/crackerteg/Car%20crap/VID_20130529_171525_zpsa80afb56.mp4)

Hmm Z, I don't see any play going on in the lower ball joint. How about the upper ball joint? Did you see any play going on there? Also, have you checked your bump stop in the struts?

I didn't see any play in the upper. I looked at the video of the lower and thought I saw play but very minute amount which is why I posted it up for you guys to see. As for the bump stop in the struts, it looked fine when I took the coils apart awhile back when I originally swapped the shock thinking that was bad. One thing I noticed this morning and after a short drive last night, after jacking up that corner and fumbling with it, the noise seems to have subsided a bit. Maybe that's why I thought it was gone after doing the compliance bushings and end links a few months ago. Does that make any sense?

have you looked at the other side sometimes noises travel funny. Recently I had a squeak that I swore was the upper driver shock mount and it ended up being the passenger lower ball joint.

I thought about that but this noise is pretty pronounced. It did lead me to a broken engine mount on that side.

Passenger lower ball joint replaced. The old one was looser than a private high school chick on prom night. Going to ride it out the next few days before I call this closed.

It's catholic high school chick.

And is a Catholic school private? Yes it is. Suck my balls.

No. I don't want to.

Liar.

Figure I'd give an update. The lower ball joint did remedy the noise I heard from the passenger side. Obviously, for those two or three days after my first attempt, it was considerably noisier thanks to my almost breaking shit but the replacement is doing great. I get minor noise now but I'm pretty sure its my UCA because I get it on the driver's side on similar bumps.

Took off my PS UCA to give it a thorough inspection as that was the only thing that didn't make sense in my suspension knocking in that corner. Found the ball joint had been partially popped out of the arm from the back where it can't be seen. Seems I may have FINALLY found my clunking issue. I popped it back in but since it seems to have been out like this since summer of 2012, its not going to hold out much longer. Time for a new UCA. Yay...

Last night I welded the balljoint that I found popped out of the UCA so many months ago in an effort to see if that was my knocking. Knocking has ceased. Good thing I have a pair of new front UCA en route but the weld job can certainly hold for a long ass time. Yeah, I'm lazy or maybe I got distracted. Who cares. I once and for all found the source of my knock.

I bet figuring that one out felt pretty good. 

After almost two years of scratching my head? Damn straight!

Still holding up?

Yup.