EliteCM.net

i finally installed my TSX IM. i also installed the hondata thermal gasket. the hardest part was topping off my radiator. i had to drain it to open up the injector base.

now i got a engine light on. i did just what was on the write up. but as an addition i took of the six bolts that hold the injector base to the head. pulled it out enough to squeeze the hondata gasket in and bolted her back up. i also got rid of the intake resonator, then i finished off the IM job. what could this engine light be? i topped of the rad and the temperature of the engine seems fine. the car runs great but i am alittle concerned... PLEASE HELP

Without knowing the code or codes, we can't really help. Get the codes pulled at your local parts store (I don't know if they have Autozone up in Toronto) and let us know.

i was going to diagnose it tomorrow, but i went for a 20-minute drive and suddenly the engine light turned off! i'm hoping it stays off, if not i will diagnose it. but i pray that it doesn't come back.

thanks Z

Even with the light off, the code is stored in your ECM. I'd still get the code pulled to see if it's related.

got that code checked out. my friend said its not a major alert. its just basically saying that its the engine is running richer. i figured that the computer had to adjust to the changes. but ill keep an eye on out. but should i still be concerned.

Clear the codes and let your ECM relearn your driving habits. Still keep an eye for it though. Otherwise you should be good. BTW, what code did you get exactly?

the code i got was 0171

code 0171 means too lean.

the code was 0171 "too lean"...it was only came on for a whiel. later on that night it went away and never came back... i guess it means i just have more air coming in from my deleted resonator w/K&N drop in, and TSX IM. ever since then ive driven over 100 kms and no codes came up. she running great too!

That code is P0171. Supposedly its an O2 sensor related code. And yes its saying you got a lean mixture. That code popped on me a couple of months back and I asked about it on the old G7. I was told to replace the sensor, but the code hasn't popped since then. I did, however, throw a can of Seafoam in my tank along with premium for a tank to clean up any kind of crap I had in there. So far, so good. Also, if your buddy didn't clear the code for you, ask him to clear it so it doesn't come up later on when you do have a problem.

love this sight, answered my Q about 0171, im going to try the sea foam and premium, also gonna try to clean the maf.

P2A00: Definition: Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem
P0010: Definition: Intake Cam Position Actuator Circuit Open - Bank 1
Explanation: The comprehensive component monitor, referred to as the CCM, monitors the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) circuit to the computer for high and low voltages. If the voltage falls below a set limit for a specific amount of time during this test, the check engine light will come on and set this trouble code. Open or short in the VCT circuit
Open in the Vehicle Power circuit
Open or short in the VCT solenoid valve itself
Damaged computer (PCM) are the possible causes.
Remedy:
P0011: Definition: Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced - Bank 1
Explanation: The comprehensive component monitor, referred to as the CCM, monitors the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) position for over-advanced cam timing. If the cam timing exceeds a maximum calibrated limit or is stuck in an advanced position, the check engine light will come on and set this trouble code. The following would cause this to happen: Incorrect camshaft timing
VCT solenoid valve stuck open or continuous oil flow to piston chamber
Camshaft advance mechanism binding, or faulty VCT unit
P0101: Definition:
P0102:Definition: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input
Explanation: Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. A more technical description would be that the MAF circuit had lower than expected voltage (air flow).
Causes: The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad. The MAF may be dirty or otherwise contaminated (Note: if you use a reusable oiled air filter, be careful not to apply too much oil or that can contaminate the MAF). The MAF sensor may be faulty. The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
Possible solutions: Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires. Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor. Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor. Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information). Replace the MAF sensor.  
P0103:
P0107:
P0108:
P0112:
P0113: Definition: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
Explanation: The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the temperature of the air entering the engine. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference voltage to the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. The IAT is a thermistor that varies resistance based on temperature. As the temperature increases, resistance decreases. Low temperature results in a high signal voltage. When the PCM sees a signal voltage higher than 5 volts, it sets this P0113 check engine light code.
Causes: Internally failed IAT sensor. Faulty connection at IAT sensor. Open in IAT ground circuit or signal circuit. Short to voltage in IAT signal circuit or reference circuit. IAT harness and/or wiring routed too close to high-voltage wiring (e.g. alternator, spark plug cables, etc.). Faulty PCM (less likely but not impossible).
Remedy: First, if you have access to a scan tool, is there an IAT reading? If the IAT reading is logical then the problem is likely intermittent. If the reading is less than -30 degrees, unplug the connector. Install a jumper wire between the harness connector signal and ground circuits. The IAT temperature reading on the scan tool should be maxed out at the high end. For example it should be 280 degrees Farenheit or higher. If it is, the wiring is okay, and it may have been the connection. If it isn't install the jumper wire between the IAT signal circuit and the chassis ground. If now the IAT reading on the scan tool is maxed out then check for an open in the IAT ground circuit. If you get no reading at all on the scan tool, it's likely that the sensor signal is open or the 5 volt reference is missing. Check using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) for a 5 volt reference. If it's there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector.
P0116:
P0117:
P0118:
P0122:
P0123:
P0125:
P0128:
P0133:
P0134:
P0135:
P0137:
P0138:
P0139:
P0141:: Definition:Secondary HO2S heater malfunction
Explanation: There is a heater malfunction for the secondary heated oxygen sensor located in the catalytic converter.
Remedy: Replace secondary heated oxygen sensor and clear codes.
P0171: Definition: Primary o2 Sensor Malfunction
Explanation: There is a heater malfunction for the primary heated oxygen sensor located on the exhaust manifold. When code is read it should say if the code was thrown because of rich or lean conditions.
Remedy: Clear codes, drive around for ~40miles. If code re-appears then check codes again. If same code replace.
P0172:
P0300:
P0301:
P0302:
P0303:
P0304:
P0325:
P0335:
P0339:
P0340:
P0341:
P0344:
P0365:
P0369:
P0401:
P0404:
P0406:
P0420:
P0442:
P0443:
P0451:
P0452:
P0453:
P0456:
P0457:
P0496:
P0497:
P0498:
P0499:
P0506:
P0507:
P0511: Definition: Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Circuit Malfuntion
Explanation: The IAC cannot determine the correct setting.
Remedy: Check that all plugs and sensors are properly connected, including under the throttle body. Connect any that have come loose or disconnected.
P0563:
P0603:
P0606:
P0685:
P0700:
P0705:
P0706:
P0711:
P0712:
P0713:
P0716:
P0717:
P0718:
P1106: Definition: BARO Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction
P1107: Definition: BARO Circuit Low Input
P1108: Definition: BARO Circuit High Input
P1121: Definition: Throttle Position Lower Than Expected
P1122: Definition: Throttle Position Higher Than Expected
P1128: Definition: MAP Lower Than Expected
P1129: Definition: MAP Higher Than Expected
P1162: Definition: HO2S11 Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1163: Definition: HO2S11 Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1164: Definition: HO2S11 Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1165: Definition: HO2S11 Slow Response(Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1166: Definition: HO2S11 Heater Circuit Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1167: Definition: HO2S11 Heater Circuit (VS+) Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1168: Definition: HO2S11 Label Circuit Low Voltage Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1169: Definition: HO2S11 Label Circuit High Voltage Fault (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1201: Definition: Cylinder 1 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0301
P1202: Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0302
P1203: Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0303
P1204: Definition: Cylinder 4 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0304
P1205: Definition: Cylinder 5 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0305
P1206: Definition: Cylinder 6 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0306
P1241: Definition: Throttle Vent Control Motor Circuit 1 Malfunction
P1242: Definition: Throttle Vent Control Motor Circuit 2 Malfunction
P1243: Definition: Throttle Position Insufficient
P1244: Definition: Closed Throttle Position Insufficient
P1246: Definition: Accelerator Position Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction
P1247: Definition: Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction
P1248: Definition: Accelerator Position Sensors 1 & 2 Improper Correlation
P1253: Definition: VTEC System Circuit Fault
P1259: Definition: VTEC System Malfunction, Rear Bank (Bank 1)
P1279: Definition: VTEC System Malfunction, Front Bank (Bank 2)
P1297: Definition: ELD Circuit Low Input
P1298: Definition: Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Voltage
P1300: Definition: Random Misfire
P1301: Definition: Cylinder 1 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0301
P1302: Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0302
P1303: Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0303
P1304: Definition: Cylinder 4 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0304
P1305: Definition: Cylinder 5 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0305
P1306: Definition: Cylinder 6 Misfire - Compare possible causes/symptoms for this Honda check engine light code to the Generic OBD II code P0306
P1316: Definition: Spark Plug Voltage Detection Circuit Malfunction, Front Bank
P1317: Definition: Spark Plug Voltage Detection Circuit Malfunction, Rear Bank
P1318: Definition: Spark Plug Voltage Detection Module Reset Circuit Malfunction, Front Bank
P1319: Definition: Spark Plug Voltage Detection Module Reset Circuit Malfunction, Rear Bank
P1324: Definition: Knock Sensor Power Source Circuit Low Voltage
P1336: Definition: CKP Sensor B Range/Performance
P1337: Definition: CKP Sensor B Low Input
P1359: Definition: CKP/TDC Sensor Circuit Connector Disconnection
P1361: Definition: TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362: Definition: TDC 1 Sensor No Signal
P1366: Definition: TDC 2 Sensor Intermittent
P1367: Definition: TDC 2 Sensor No Signal
P1381: Definition: CYP Sensor A Intermittent Interruption
P1382: Definition: CYP Sensor A No Signal
P1386: Definition: CYP Sensor B Intermittent Interruption
P1387: Definition: CYP Sensor B No Signal
P1456: Definition: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)
P1457: Definition: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)
P1459: Definition: EVAP Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1491: Definition: EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected
P1498: Definition: EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage
P1508: Definition: IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519: Definition: IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1607: Definition: ECM Internal Circuit Failure A
P1608: Definition: ECM Internal Circuit Failure B
P1655: Definition: TMA or TMB Signal Line Fault
P1656: Definition: Automatic Transmission System Malfunction
P1660: Definition: A/T FI Data Line Failure
P1671: Definition: A/T FI Data Line No Signal
P1672: Definition: A/T FI Data Line Failure
P1676: Definition: Traction Control System FI Data Line No Signal
P1677: Definition: Traction Control System FI Data Line Failure
P1678: Definition: FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1681: Definition: A/T FI Signal A Low Input
P1682: Definition: A/T FI Signal A High Input
P1686: Definition: A/T FI Signal B Low Input
P1687: Definition: A/T FI Signal B High Input
P1690: Definition: Traction Control System STB Line Failure
P1696: Definition: Traction Control Fuel Cut Signal Low Input
P1697: Definition: Traction Control Fuel Cut Signal High Input
P1705: Definition: TCM A/T Gear Position Switch Circuit Shorted
P1706: Definition: TCM A/T Gear Position Switch Circuit Open
P1753: Definition: TCM A/T Lockup Solenoid Valve "A" Fault
P1758: Definition: TCM A/T Lockup Solenoid Valve "B" Fault
P1790: Definition: TCM A/T TP Sensor Circuit Fault
P1791: Definition: TCM A/T Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault
P1753: TCM A/T ECT Sensor Circuit Fault
P2195: Definition: Stuck lean O2 sensor
Explanation: The O2 sensor is sensing too much air and is "stuck" in the lean setting.
Remedy: Check that all plugs and sensors are properly connected, including under the throttle body. Connect any that have come loose or disconnected.
P2127: Definition: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2 (Throttle Position Sensor E) Circuit Low Voltage
P2128: Definition: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2 (Throttle Position Sensor E) Circuit High Voltage
P2135: Definition: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1/2 Incorrect Voltage Correlation
P2138: Definition: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1/2 (Throttle Position Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage Correlation
P2176: Definition: Throttle Actuator Control System Idle Position Not Learned
P2195: Definition: Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
P2197: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
P2227: Definition: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P2228: Definition: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P2229: Definition: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P2237: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) IP Line High Voltage
P2238: Definition: Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS+ Line Low Voltage
P2238: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) IP Line Low Voltage
P2240: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) IP Line High Voltage
P2241: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) IP Line Low Voltage
P2243: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage
P2245: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line Low Voltage
P2247: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage
P2249: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VCENT Line Low Voltage
P2251: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage
P2252: Definition: Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS- Line Low Voltage
P2254: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage
P2255: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VS Line Low Voltage
P2279: Definition: Intake Air System Leak
P2413: Definition: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Range/Performance Problem
P2422: Definition: Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Vent Shut Valve Close Malfunction
P2552: Definition: Throttle Actuator Control Module Relay Malfunction
P2627: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit Low Voltage
P2628: Definition: Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage
P2630: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit Low Voltage
P2631: Definition: Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage
P2646: Definition: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage
P2647: Definition: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage
P2648: Definition: VTEC Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Voltage
P2649: Definition: VTEC Solenoid Valve Circuit High Voltage
P2769: Definition: Short in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P2770: Definition: Open in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P2A03: Definition: Front A/F Sensor Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
U0073: Definition: FCAN Malfunction (Bus-off)
U0107: Definition: Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator Control Module
U0121: Definition: FCAN Malfunction (TCS-PCM)
U0155: Definition: FCAN Malfunction (Gauge Control Module-ECM/PCM

Hey Thien, good looks on posting up the definitions on these codes as well as making this particular thread a stickie. So, on that note, congrats to Fab for getting his thread stickied!

Wow great thread! Answers to alot of future questions. Good job Thien for the codes and Fab for starting this thread!

Credit can also be given to Fab for starting the thread in the first place.

... and i thank the accord for bringing up the code. hahaha

aghhhh i remember the night i made that list haha.

Good thread guys im sure this will be pretty helpful to people!

Got this code for the second time...

P0171: Definition: Primary o2 Sensor Malfunction
Explanation: There is a heater malfunction for the primary heated oxygen sensor located on the exhaust manifold. When code is read it should say if the code was thrown because of rich or lean conditions.
Remedy: Clear codes, drive around for ~40miles. If code re-appears then check codes again. If same code replace.

So I bought a new 02 sensor and some seafoam. Hopefully will be replacing by the weekend. Useful thread!!!!!!

So this is he sensor that is on the catalytic converter????

The one right before it.

Ahhh... Okey dokey damn still gotta get under the car. I can see it sitting right below the header just can't reach it...

Yeah dude. Gotta pay to play! I just forked out $150 for lifetime alignments at Firestone.

Question... the correct way and only way to clear a code once a problem has been fixed is by that machine they use at say like AutoZone??? Will just disconnecting the battery do it or will the code just come back?

We just replaced the 02 sensors on Jade06's car and the code P0171 came up again saying 1 of 2... and that the car is riding lean like Fabulous010's ride . Im guessing the car has to get used to the new sensors and soon should go away....

I got one of those code  readers that can delete a code if needed my friend who lives in my building had his accord doing the same thing even with the battery disconnected still showed lean but after i rested his code hasn't shown up yet i guess car has to get used to it but i could be wrong.

I replaced My Secondary O2 sensor and disconnected my battery for about 30 minutes and it hasn't come back on since. That was about two weeks ago. My guess would be that there is another problem just judging by the fact that mine turned off instantly and hasn't come on since.

Yea he got the code reader from his friend to. I told him to delete the code and see what happens in a few days.


Thanks guys!

Wait which sensor did you change? cuz if the code came back up after deleting it, then you probably replaced the wrong one.

I changed the one on the header first... then we cleared the code. A day later the code came back saying the same code and saying one of two, so we replaced the sensor on the catalytic converter. Code cleared, now it came back again saying the same code and when Elliot's boy check it out further it was saying the car is running too lean. <-- guessing the car is running lean because of the 2 new sensors. The car is in a state of shock lolzzz. I know he was riding for awhile with the CEL on before we changed the 1st sensor! All should be well now hopefully. I will find out this weekend when I head up there.

that sounds like the code would be caused by a dirty maf sensor or a vacuum leak not the sensors on the exhaust.

Well the code continuously is P0171...

my sisters lex pulled that code, i cleaned the maf sensor and havent had any problems since. google that code and see what returns.

the cel code p0171 keeps popping up on my car, but then goes away for awhile. its used to appear for a couple days. and then disappear for a couple weeks. now it shuffles between days, on and off. my guess is a dirty maf sensor. if it was a bad o2 or a/f sensor then the code would just stay on...?

Well that code you just listed points to the O2 sensor in ya header. If it was bad it usually stays on, but my guess would be there's some kind of short in the wire which could explain why it keeps coming on and goin off. You can try cleaning the MAF, but not sure if that will help solve the issue.

My CEL went on and off for a while then stayed on when it was the O2 sensor.

i will try to clean up the maf sensor and check for any leaks on my intake. then i will reset my ecu and see if it appears again.....
none of this happened right until i switched the accord manifold for the tsx IM. the same day i switched the two i got a cel code. then went away and never came back. then i installed a CAI and it re appeared and keeps popping on and off now. i am going to plug in a code reader just to make sure it is that code..

Sounds like the MAF is freaking out by the increase air flow it's been getting.

P0171= fuel system too lean

You may want to try resetting your ECU, doing the idle learn procedure, and consider filling up with premium for the next tank of gas.

hmmm ok i have reseted the ecu b4 like skip had mentioned. i will try reseting it again, erasing the code and then filling up with premuim.
would having to much air in and not enough out cause this too? i have the tsx IM and CAI, but stock exhaust and headers...

I never had the problem when all I had was a CAI and TSX IM.  I also do not have a MAF.

could that fact that i have a maF make a difference? anyways i dont have much time. but im going to put premium gas, maybe in 94 octane:D on sunday i will probably clean out the maf and check for any leaks on the intake. i really need a code reader to plug in tho.

TIM ONCE AGAIN! YOU ARE A FUCKING GENIUS! last night i needed to fuel up. so before i tried anything else i pumped premium fuel like you said. and BANG as soon as i started the car i reset my odometer, then remmebered to check the cel light and it was gone!!! tim once again you have come thru for me. your the man bro. thanx alot

over the weekend the cel code popped up again. so i tightened up my intake manifold (one bolt needed to be tightened 1/4 turn) plugged in the code reader and erased the code..(p0171)  so far so good.
it actually read 2 codes p0171 and p0171 p. what does this 'p' stand for? pending>?

The "p" stands for pooty-tang.

Seriously though, I don't know why you would get the same code twice. Maybe its a Canadian thing. (http://www.sciforums.com/images/smilies/shrug.gif)

hahaha. i dont know either. can someone clarify whats the p stands for?

i took my car into honda to get diagnosed. and they said that it was my 02 sensor. but that it was because of my intake and recommended that i get a defouler? its basically an extension so that the o2 sensor doesnt sit directly in the cat and doesnt sense the extra gas passing through. but for now i got no cel light on. i check on that later.
they also said there was a cm upgrade for my car and did that for my free of charge. i have no idea what the upgrade did. anybody know about this upgrade?

Not sure about the upgrade, but they were wrong about your CEL being caused by your intake.  If you deleted your cat or had a high flow cat, it would have caused that CEL.  Did they replace the O2 sensor?

no. they told me to get the defouler.

What is the CEL code you're getting?

same one as always p0171 too lean.

Which O2 sensor did you change?

I don't think he changed it. They told him to just get a defouler.

Gotcha...I was under the impression that he changed the O2 sensor before, but still kept getting the code.

Fab, if you keep getting that code its time to replace the sensor. What Honda told you was a crock of shit. Adding a defouler and blaming the intake for the code is bullshit. I wouldn't trust what they told you. If your exhaust system is stock, the defouler is only going to prolong the inevitable which is replacing your O2 sensor. Replce it now and clear the code. You won't have it pop up again.

There's no reason why the O2 sensor would give him a "lean" code.  Maybe the a/f sensor would give him that code, but what is causing this to happen anyway.  I say, put the stock intake back in first, if that doesn't do anything, run premium fuel from a different gas station (could be bad fuel), and finally, consider taking a closer look at your injectors.  You may want to have them cleaned or replaced.

I got my first CEL last night :( It's from the lovely broken gas pump incident, and the result of my tank being over filled. Have to wait for the EVAP system to burn off all that fuel and hope it goes back out.

That sucks.  What code did you get Mike?

Didn't bother to pull it because I know what it's from. The gas pump never shut off, and I didn't notice until it was coming out of the tank onto the ground so I know the tank was over full.

You may want to check that code still.

to give you guys some back ground... the first time i ever got a cel code. was when i installed the tsx im with hondata gasket around feb of this year. then it went away... but would come on from time to time (once every few weeks for about a day). then when i got my fujita cai it came on and doesnt go away much (stay on for a few weeks then shuts off for a day or so)

at first i had my intake ghetto zip tied. so i thought it was a leak of some sort. but now i have the vibration mount and i have checked all the hoses and maf to see it its lose. i have ran shell 91 octane gas and that cleared it right off the bat. but on the same night it came back on the same tank of gas :( lol. i have also put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in a full tank of gas.

i got this code back in feb and at the time i had stock intake with tsx im. an i have been dealing with this cel code since then.. and what pisses my off is that i went to honda to get it diagnosed to specifically know which sensor it is, and save my self the time and money switching sensors only to find out if it was another. i feel like that was useless now. they said that with that intake i would always have the cel code on. only way to by pass it is to get a defouler.

for now i am going to remove my maf sensor and spray it with brake cleaner then reset my ecu...

I'm not sure how your MAF would be affecting this also.  What they told you about the CAI is incorrect.  They gave you bad advice.  Did you check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks on your TSX IM?  There may be a vacuum port that you didn't block.  My suggestion is to look for a vacuum leak.  If you can't find it, take off your TSX IM and go back to your stock intake and intake manifold.  Then follow the recommendations I gave earlier.  At this point, I'm suspecting your IM and think there is a vacuum leak.

Pulled my code sure enough small evap system leak is the description. I'm going to give the fuel in the charcoal canister some time to dry out.

that is alot of work and i dont have muck to do that right now... but i have cleaned my maf sensor and will install it shortly. i have also disconnected the battery to reset the ecu. i will keep you guys updated.

ok i dont want to jinx anything but,... i cleaned up my maf last night, and reset the ecu properly (as per skips instructions) and am happy to report that so far my cel light has stayed off! soo far soo good. i only drove it to work and back but usually when its off it'll come back on, on one of those trips. but it kinda makes sense now. i had no cel light until i installed the tsx im. dirty maf + more air (tsx im) = cel code occasionally comes on. (dirty maf + even more air (tsx im, cai) = cel code always on.
with the maf sensor being all dirty, once i got more air into the air chamber the sensor went hay wire and the more air i shoved through the more the cel light came on. even though im not 100%sure this was the cause or cure, i am really hopefull and somewhat excited. just sucks that i spent $150 on getting some idiot to "diagnose" it (if you want to call it that) and a defouler which i never heard of.

should i keep the defouler for when i install an aftermarket exhaust. can i use it then?

I'd keep the defouler for the aftermarket exhaust just in case. Some people don't use it, but others (like Tim) need it so they're not constantly throwing codes from the increased airflow.

Actually, I don't need it now.  I just turn off that sensor in kpro.  I've had a bad O2 sensor in my cat since February.  The only reason why you would need to use a defouler for the O2 sensor in your cat is if you have a high flow cat or no cat.  Other than that, an aftermarket intake, header, or exhaust system should not affect it's performance.  The only reason why I had to use the defouler is because I have a high flow cat.

damn i will try to sell it and if i need one later on then i will pick one up again...
on a bad note my cel light popped up again. sigh... i am soo fed up with this. i will try to plug a scanner to see if its the same code

i pulled the code from my car last night. and its the same freagin code, p0171 too lean, bank 1??

If you tried what Tim suggested, I'd say you go with what I've been saying all along dude. Replace the sensor and get it over with.

tried to resolve my cel code issue i was having. turns out it was that stupid little nipple at the bottom of the tsx im. tim you right all along about the vacuum leak. i did listen to you and checked everything else but that! lol i checked all the hoses and even the gaskets and injector base. i just didnt check the vacuum hose at the bottom of the manifold and that stupid little nipple. stupid of me. but oh well. you live and you learn

Hmmm, live and learn dude. I'm glad you got the issue resolved without shelling out for a new o2 sensor. Defouler, what a crock of shit.

I think that was like one of the first things I asked you, wasn't it?

it was i had checked everything else. i even checked to see if the injector plate and manifold was loose. i checked the hoses going into the intake. i didnt check that nipple becuase i knew i put it on there good. but what had happened was that the tip of it cracked like a lid. either way i appreciate the help tim. but its a good thing i didnt just go out and switch the 02.

Quite true.  Rubber nipples are a lot cheaper than O2 sensors!  Glad your shit got resolved though.  Those Honda techs really know their stuff!!

hahaha i know! thank god i have a shop that i worked part time at and i can trust with my car or i would be screwed!
damn those little nipples, they will get you in the end!

Lets see, I dug my car out of the snow yesterday morning to go to work, everything was fine. I then left work at night and saw the light come on. I really don't know what could of caused it to go on in the first place. If anything I did put gas Friday afternoon and the light came on Sunday night. So any help would be appreciated.

Gas cap could have caused it. The primary O2 seems to be the popular one for me when its blistering cold out. Scan it and report back. Can't help you with out knowing the code. All we could do is speculate.

What's your malfunction indicator lamp?  Your car has a couple of idiot lights, which one is illuminated?

This one lol http://images.hondatuningmagazine.com/images/htup_0807_01_z+honda_check_engine_light_aka_mil_cel_or_idiot_light.jpg

that would be a check engine light, run advance auto and get them to scan for a code, once you have that we can provide a little more insight.

(http://media.bigoo.ws/content/smile/signs/signs_202.gif)

Your CEL being on could be the result of at least a hundred different things.  Like David said, have someone check your codes and then post in this thread (http://elitecm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=553) before posting any more new threads.  Please research before creating duplicate threads on the same topic.

Around your way you can hit up AutoZone, they will check it for free and give you the code with 3 possible reasons why your throwing the CEL. Check all 3 and I would start with the cheaper problem/solution first.



   Lolzzzz

alright guys I got a code P0141. I checked out the other thread for code meaning and gonna have to replace the sensor. I guess the light came on because I ran straight through a small snowbank lol....you guys can go ahead and close and delete this thread.

I just merged it with the existing thread.  Post in here from now on if you have any other CEL issues.

Yea man get that changed asap or you'll be paying in gas! When you get dropped you can be running through shit anymore, low and slow... unless your on smooth pavement, lolz.

Hey guys....had a SHITTY day today, woke up to a flat tire (3" wood screw) and then later in the day on the way to V-day dinner on the donut with the gf i got a maintenance required light come on.

My buddy i was with ran my code - P2195 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Signal Stuck Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
did a google search and it doesn't specifically say where the sensor was, pretty sure this is the sensor that goes into the header/flex pipe correct ?
i have a feeling that i may have hit some hardened snow/ice while driving last night in the middle of my car, possibly ripped out/stripped/shorted out the sensor or wires?

gonna start with resetting the ecu and letting her warm up in the morning
help on the location of the o2 sensor would be great, i can take care of the rest

also gonna check for a vacuum leak, perhaps with the cai + tsx im swap out a hose came loose or a hole popped up

The Maintenance Required light is not the same as the Check Engine Light.  Just to be clear, which one is lit up on your dash?

maintenance required light is permanantly on..... it usually does this ever 10k or whatever it is when i need oil change, but i always erase it with the whole hold down the odometer stick for 10-15 seconds in II etc...

my friend hooked his OBDII sensor thing up to my car, it read P2195 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Signal Stuck Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
to me, yeah this makes more sense to be a check engine light.....however no CEL came on....just the maintenance required is on full time

Do you have a CEL light though?

Reading owns you, lol.

haha...

no CEL, however the maintenance required light is on full time

code read P2195....confused

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_ ... a_Civic_DX (http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_bank_1_sensor_1_O2_sensor_located_on_a_2000_Honda_Civic_DX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
appears that its the o2 sensor in the header/downpipe... pretty sure i yanked a wire loose, that o2 sensor is not even 6 months old

but why maintenance light and not CEL ?

I bet it is an old code then that didnt get cleared. maybe.... I dunno what I am talking about. Try clearing the code or resetting the ecu and see if it comes up again

Is this an assumption, or have you confirmed this?  Be careful that you don't misdiagnose something that ends up costing you money that you don't need to spend.  I'd double check that code you're getting though.

Anybody getting P0139. It's not on that long list of codes. Saying something about the O2 sensor. Any ideas?

This is the part where you take these next steps I give you and follow them very closely.
1st: Take an empty bottle of Cuervo and fill it halfway with gasoline.
2nd: Stuff an oily rag into the bottle with about a third of it sticking out the bottle opening.
3rd: Light the oily rag with your choice of incendiary device.
4th: Throw the lit bottle at your car.
5th: Run away.
6th: Wait for the boom before you contact local authorities and tell them some hoodlums got into a gang fight.
7th: Buy a new car with the insurance payout.  


In all seriousness, here's what I dug up with a quick and dirty google search: Click me! (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0139)
Is your car a J30 or K24? That may help us help you.

I've had that code before, it's a stuck o2 sensor on the rear bank I believe (depending on which motor you have).  Try clearing the code first and seeing if it comes back. (I say that because that's what I did, and it never came back) If it does come back, you have a bad sensor or wire somewhere.  Check the wiring, and if it's fine, you probably need a new o2 sensor..then clear the code, you'll be good..

somebody correct me if I'm wrong here.. I'm never 100% positive on such things..

Ok thanks. Yea have the K24 model. First code I ever pulled on the car since I had it. All stock exhaust so I never touched any O2 sensors. The rear 02 I'm assuming is on the cat convertor.

when I said rear bank, that's referring to the J30 rear bank of cylinders.. so I have no idea what it means on the k24..

New code to add to the list:

P0420 "Catalyst Efficientcy Below Threshold, Bank 1"

This is the code I got from my check engine light being on. This is interesting because I had my cat converter replaced about a year ago. Anyone know if this means the cat converter is not functioning properly or is a sensor bad?

It is probably your cat.  P0420 is the code I got after swapping out a high flow cat.  When I used a spark plug defouler, it fixed it.

What is a spark plug defouler?

It recesses the second O2 sensor causing it to read less gas because the way that it works is comparing the results from the 1st and 2nd O2 sensors.

Basically what Bill said.  It spaces your secondary O2 sensor further away from the stream of exhaust in your cat.  Here are a few pictures to help you get a visual of what we're talking about.
(http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8277/img1345cq3jw2.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/driftman240sx/DefoulerInstalled.jpg)

Update: Went to the muffler shop...they pulled the same code (P0420). They pulled out the rear o2 sensor cleaned it off and reset the ECU.  They said the cat seemed fine. I drove the car home, put 3/4 tank new gas in and the light came back on. Looks like I'm going back to the shop.

Ask them about the defouler. It sounds like that is your problem.

What kind of cat did you get?  Is it an OEM replacement or is it an aftermarket replacement?

Its strange that it took almost 1 year for this code to surface. I've had the cat since 4/30/09....

It's a magnaflow high flow cat, correct?

Yes, magnaflow cat.

I had that problem with my high flow cat.  Is yours a bolt on replacement, or did they cut your old one out and weld the new one in?  I have a Magnaflow high flow cat and within a day, I had the same exact code.  If you have a high flow cat, I'd just get the spark plug defouler and call it a day.

I have the high-flow cat. The old one was cut-out and new one welded in place.  Why would this code be showing up 1 year after the new cat was installed. From your experience Tim, it would seem like this code would have shown up almost immediately after install.

It didn't show up immediately after I had mine installed.  Honestly, I don't have an answer why it's happening now.  My only suggestion would be the defouler.

It may not be the cat that is causing the code. A defouler may be the answer but, it's quite possiable that the O2 sensor could need to be changed also. I've seen a new O2 sensor fix this issue often in Non Hondas. My Honda expirence is limited.

Got the cat replaced today for free.  No light yet....

Nice!

Light came on last night...was on all day. Went to get groceries tonight, light is now off. WTF? Bad sensor?

You never know.  Try and get the code if it comes back.

Awhile back I had my engine light go on, I got it checked and what showed was a "P0141". Now a couple of days ago I got it replaced and the mechanic told me that it was clean nothing was wrong with it, he cleared the comp, but the light came back on. This came on when I hit a small snow bank back during the winter storm. Any ideas like where to check if I have a bad sensor or wire or some-sort?

Light has been coming off and on every couple weeks. Pulled the code again today...same P0420.

I might try replacing the secondary O2 sensor....but there are specific codes for that (P0137,P0138, P0141).

I also have the defoulers sitting on my desk....

When I got that code, I replaced the secondary O2 sensor and cleared the code. Nothing has come back since. Granted, I'm still running the OEM cat but that should give a bit of help.

The P0420 code is low catalyst efficiency.  If you haven't installed the defouler, try that first.  It's less expensive than a sensor.

Like others have said, I would first install the defoulers, but I would also suspect a weak O2 sensor to be the true culprit.

Yeah, a new sensor is like $60.


I suppose I would like to fix the root of the problem rather than masking it with defoulers.  However, from what I understand the secondary O2 sensor is only responsible for emissions and has no effect on engine performance, correct?

Yes, the secondary O2 sensors only job is to check for proper cat function.

I got some weird codes. P2185. P0135. P0498. P0102. I looked them up and know what they all mean, just don't know how to fix all them.

temp sensor, o2 sensor, evap canister, and maf need to be replaced it seems. holy shit that's a lot of $$ on sensors. did they all happen at once? I say start with the MAF (hopefully you can find one at a junkyard.)

Found a TSB -
06 - http://www.aboutautomobile.com/TSB/2006/Honda/Accord/Electrical+Wiring
07 - http://www.aboutautomobile.com/TSB/2007/Honda/Accord/Electrical+Wiring

Disconnect your battery for about 5-10 minutes (reset codes - but make sure you have your radio code) and see if all 4 come up again.

I'd reccomened doing them one at a time, and often you can test them. Sometimes one sensor can cause a bunch of codes.

 :stupid:

I now owe you a one kick in the balls!

Obviously, I posted that on purpose. :D

Time to get cracking with it

The ball kicking?

He's in fucking uganda or some shit. My legs aren't that long, and I'm to fat to endure his current climate.

got a p0401 code that keeps coming up. I replaced the egr valve.....no dice, keeps coming back

Never done one on an Accord but, from the Toyota's of worked on sometimes the tubing going to the EGR gets clogged as well as the EGR it self, and cleaning it can clear it up.

I just replaced the egr valve, but how would I clean the tubing to it?

In the past I used carb cleaner it's probably not the best method though.

I'd probably use compressed air.

Im getting code p2646 ... My scaner reads.."Rocker arm actuator A - bank 1  Perf. Or stuck off".. That dosent sound too good..

P2646 - Oil Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage

It's #12 in the picture.  There are a few steps that you need to take to determine that it's not functioning, but it's most likely the switch that needs to be replaced.  I have a few of them, but all my spare engine parts are packed away for my move.  You can probably get a complete VTEC solenoid assembly on k20a for around $20-30.  You can use one from an Accord, Civic Si, TSX, or RSX with a K series.  They're all pretty much the same.

(http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/14sda01_e1010.png) (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=VTC+OIL+CONTROL+VALVE+%28L4%29)

P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Is this the sensor on the cat or the other one (i forget if its before or after it)?

P0141 - Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2)) Heater Circuit Malfunction

That is the one on your catalytic converter.  Did you clear the code already?  If you already did that, then check fuse 18 in the fuse box under your dash.  If it's blown, replace it.  If that doesn't work, skip all the other steps in the service manual and just replace the sensor.

Code was cleared and came back within 2-3 seconds after starting the car. I'm going to check the fuse. Is that in the driver side fuse box?

There are only 2 fuse boxes.  One under your dash and one in your engine bay.

I'm supernoob. For some reason I thought there was one in the passenger side.

Thanks again.

thanks for all the info tim...i found out that the problem was caused by being really low on oil i was missing three Qts :'(..i got  the oil changed and top off and problem has gone away. i think i need to change out the oil pan gasket becuse it looks like oil leak is coming from and i aslo think my motor maybe is also burning alot of it too..ill keep an eye more on the oil from now on thats for sure.. i cleared the code and has not come back..

Yeah, checking the oil level is the very first step in the Honda service manual.

I can't find the Honda part number for the sensor so I'm just going to buy a Denso one (they make the OEM one). Also, it's not the AFR sensor correct? Amazon lists AFR sensor in the title but the part number is for the O2 sensor (234-4797). It's just under $50 and I can go borrow/buy a tool from Autozone and swap it out myself.

Just as a heads up sometimes getting them out isn't the easiest thing. It's in a pipe that heats and cools to the extreme.

Mike speaks the truth. Soaking that bitch with PB blaster overnight does the trick for most. It definitely did for me when I had to change mine out.

Thanks for the advice. I'll soak it overnight and do it. Did you use the O2 sensor removal tool?

Its really just a socket with a slot cut in it for the wires. It helps for sure.

I've gotten mine out without any problem.  I would suggest that you make sure to use anti-sieze on the threads of the new sensor when you replace it.

Nope. I used a box end wrench.

Hey guys,
Had a new one pop up on my '04 Accord 6-6.  It was a P1077 and came up as a manufacturer code.  I googled it and saw somethin about the Intake Manifold Runner Control... anyone seen this code or have any idea?  The car is running absolutely fine, not missing, not having trouble starting or anything.  Just wanna cover all bases.  Thanks in advance.

Why is this in the k24 section? Shouldve started one for the j's.

PM Paul

Lol, sorry just searched up Engine Codes... I know how picky you guys are. haha  Thanks Mike.

I've wondered the same thing myself. Post up in the suggestions thread to try and come up with something that bridges both engine configs. Many of the codes work for both so I don't see why it couldn't be done.

fml, so yesterday the battery died, push started it, and the CEL turned on. got two fault codes P0685, and p0606.... left the car running for 30 minutes, turned the car off,and now its just the P0685 left... any ideas? auto driver window isnt auto, and radio is reset, have to find the damn code now

The reason you got p0685 is because your ECU detected an electrical malfunction. I.e. your battery being dead. Reset the code and keep an eye on it. As for your auto window, roll all the way down and hold for two seconds, then roll all the way up and hold for two seconds.

:/ thanks z, window and radio are working again... How do I reset it? I tried to do it through my torque app or erased but then.popped right back.up. also, what's the difference on between the main req'd light and the tranny light?

Is the sound coming from your power steering pump? If so, mine has the same sound. I only hear it when its cold out. Check your fluid level. If its low, top it off and check your send and return lines coming from the reservoir for leaking.

-.- so today i turned on my car, and outta the blue my airbag light came on...no CEL... checked anyway, got the same code from before and now a P0216... but nothing about airbag...

Maybe it's a fluke?  :confused:  Sometimes it's an issue with the seatbelt buckle.  So you always have a P0216 code, or is that new?

new w/o cel on

Did the code reader say it was actually a code or did it way that the code was pending? Your CEL could be on its way to coming on the code is pending earlier in the engine cycle than the point where the CEL actually comes on this of course is to try to avoid a CEL for a sensor sending a bad signal once or twice.

no it was a code...give me few minutes and i'll post what it says

*edit* never mind, it erased, no codes..... stil have airbag light on

Bump.

My car is a 2005 Sedan LX, I4, 5-speed Auto(tragic).  I ran the OBDII scan and received this code "P0141 :: Definition : Secondary HO2S heater malfunction (HO2S BANK 1, SENSOR 2)".

I read this entire thread, searched on hondapartscheap.com and contacted my local stealership.  I still am confused on what part to purchase.  When I do a part search on hondapartscheap.com, I find the following:

Without using the VIN and entering a KA5AT engine:
36532-RAA-A02 SENSOR, OXYGEN (DENSO)
$67.85
** When giving the local stealership my VIN, they also provided this part number.  It didn't match the part number below (i.e. by searching online using the VIN), so that is one of main reasons of this confusion. **

With using the VIN (same as entering a KL5AT engine:
36532-RAD-L12 SENSOR, OXYGEN
$208.93

There is a significant difference in price.  So here are my questions:
1. Is there a significant difference between the KA5AT and KL5AT engines?  If so, what are the differences?
2. Is there an actual difference between the two parts?  Could I get the more inexpensive one?  Would the installation and performance/operation of the inexpensive part match that of the more expensive part?
3. Should I bite the bullet and purchase the expensive one as recommended?
4. Are there any alternative?

Thanks in advance all!!  ;D

there could be a number of reasons for why you received that code other than a bad sensor, what exhaust mods do you have?

^^ Everthing is STOCK (intake, IM, headers, exhaust).  :) LOL.  I read that there is a slight loss in MPG if the O2 sensor is bad.  The weird part is that I did not decrease in MPG after running a week or so with the CEL on (yeah, not a great thing to do, but am still doing the research).

When I got that code, I replaced the sensor. Problem solved. The sensor I picked up was a Bosch from the auto parts store. My car is mostly stock. I think I paid about $70 for my replacement sensor.

The sensor is on the KA code is for cars with out california emissions. Genearlly there is a major difference in sensors for california emissions vehicles to meet the more difficult particle per million regulations.

Thanks for the response guys.  I do not live in Cali, so I do not have to meet emissions requirements, but the car may have been imported from Cali.  If it is indeed the KL engine type designed to meet the strict emissions requirements, would I still need to purchase the $208 KL part?  Again, I am not in CA, so does the KL sensor still apply?  Or if I was to use the $60 KA O2 sensor, would that mess with my ECU since I should be using the KL sensor to match my VIN?  I would much rather spend $60 if the parts are similar and function similarly, but it would be unfortunate if that part did not work...

If you car is indeed a California emissions vehilce your ecu is tuned to run with that set of sensors. I would suggest that you buy the correct part. Also California emissions is not only in California other states have the requirements on certain year vehicles as well its tough to explain but, your car very well could require cali emissions even where you live.

The Bosch part number for the OEM sensor is 15410 15 410 I'm sure you could get it for far less than the dealer price. I think its like 120 on amazon.com

THANKS MIKE!!  :)  I would much rather buy the KL part now since the price is much more reasonable at $120.  I would feel much more confident with the BOSCH #15410 15 410 OEM sensor replacement part, as it should install and operate the same as the Honda #36532-RAD-L12 OEM part.

Amazon is showing it listed as $120 - http://www.amazon.com/36532RADL12-Bosch-Accord-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B005OFJR14 (http://www.amazon.com/36532RADL12-Bosch-Accord-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B005OFJR14)

I recall being told not to use Bosch O2 sensors because they can be kind of "buggy" with Honda ECU's.  Not really the kind of thing you want to be cheap about if it affects how your motor runs (which it does).  You may be better off to bite the bullet and get the proper sensor from Honda.  If you want, I can get you in contact with a few people that work at a Honda dealership that get parts for people on k20a.org.  They're stand up guys and will hook up a deal if they can. 

OEM  made by a company called NTK? They are a little more expensive but, the part number should be 24258. I can get you one for $162.99 shipped to your door. PM me if you want to go that route.

@ Tim- Thanks!!  Yes, if you wouldn't mind PM me about how to obtain the parts for a possibly more inexpensive price, that would be great and much appreciated.  It seems that my best option would be to just buy the OEM O2 sensor for the KL engine :)...

@Mike- Thanks for the info!  So this is the exact OEM part number (36532-RAD-L12 SENSOR, OXYGEN), not the Bosch one???

Bosch is OEM equivalent but, maybe not the best quality I believe NTK makes the OEM part, and that would make that the same part as OEM for a lower price. Maybe Tim has other info on that???

If you're a member of k20a.org, PM rbsjnh.  His name is Rich, and he works for Autofair Honda in Manchester, NH.  If you're not a member, I'll PM him to get an email address.  I've purchased parts from Autofair Honda and I've bought parts from Rich privately and he's a stand up guy.

Sorry to take business away from ya Mike. :(

I get my Denso O2 sensors from RockAuto.com, the (Denso, NGK, NTK are all the same company in Japan)

@Mike- Thanks for the additional info.  Just to clarify, you would be able to source the OEM equivalent NTK part #24258 for $162.99 shipped to my mailing address, correct?

@Tim- I will PM you sometime for the email address to rbsjnh (Rich) on k20a.org, as I believe I do not have an account on that site (wil need to double check).  I am interested to see what type of pricing he has access to.

@Paul- Thanks for the info.  Would you happen to know the Denso part number on Rock Auto equivalent to the OEM part number (36532-RAD-L12 SENSOR, OXYGEN)?  I will be doing more research as well :)

Thank you very much gents!!

Denso part number is 234-4363 I can get that one for $162.99 also. Shipping is included assuming you live in US. Rockauto.com has the Denso one pretty cheap. I personally have had better luck when selling NTK to Honda Owners. Less issues in my expirence.

Thanks Mike.  Denso #234-4363 is selling for $107.79 on Rock Auto; fairly attractive.  Also noticed that the NTK #24258 is selling for $162.79 on Rock Auto, which is similar to the price you mentioned earlier.  I am inclined to purchase the NTK based on the responses you all have provided :)...... Does the NTK price include Hawaii??  Cause that's where it would be shipped to  ;D

I sent you a PM as to not further clutter this thread.

PM responded to.  Thanks Mike!!

So I get a CEL tonight... code P1009, here is what I found:

P1009 has to do with the VTC sensor. (Which is on the motor next to the power steering pump. To get to it, you need remove the power steering pump.) It says to clean the VTC sensor, drain your oil and clear the code. Low oil.

What I did: Checked my oil and guess what is is almost bone dry! I don't get how. My car sits all week. Checked my spot and no oil leakage or residue on the ground. Guessing my engine is burning oil....? What would cause the engine to burn all the oil?

I am going to Honda to pick up oil/filter tomorrow morning and taking it to a shop to have it done. I will also have them clean that sensor and further diagnosis any related issues.

Edit: Also found,

DTC P1009 = Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) Advance Malfunction

The variable valve timing control (VTC) system controls the phase of the intake camshaft. It uses oil pressure to operate the VTC actuator so the valve timing is optimized, depending on driving conditions. The ECM monitors the phase control command and the actual timing of the camshaft by using the camshaft position (CMP) sensor A. If an over-advanced camshaft phase, compared to the directed value, continues, or when the camshaft phase is otherwise abnormal, a malfunction is detected and a DTC is stored in the ECM.

It can be an oil pressure issue--ensure the oil level is correct and that there is no sludging. Sludging can be disasterous on VTEC engines. Ensure the proper oil, viscosity, and filter are being used. Another common problem are VTEC solenoids going bad, which is a job best left for the dealer to repair.

For VTEC engines, I only recommend full-synthetic engine oil. Depending on the year of the Accord, it will be SAE 5W-20 or SAE 5W-30. These are very sophisticated engines, where the best lubricants are called for:

(http://img.tapatalk.com/43513c29-05f5-adb0.jpg)

Lol this applies to me. :D Last week, I was driving home and all of a sudden, I see the oil indicator flashing and I'm like =O !!!! Rush to a gas station and put 4 qts inside... I was so embarrassed with myself lol

I keep seeing this more and more on K24 Accords actually.  I had the same issue with my Accord motor.  If it's not leaking, oil is either getting past the rings or the valve stem seals.  

Well I had a long talk with the Honda Tech guy @ Honda today... turns out their "NEW" Synthetic 5W-20 oil burns more faster than the old stuff I was getting! He said alot of customers have been complaining... I ended up getting 6 qts. (extra to flush out any thing stuck on the bottom of the oil pan) and got a new filter with washer. Took it to my shop and got the oil changed and the code reset. Funny the mechanic said he never seen that code before and the OBD II machine kept saying to see Honda Handbook. I told him that code P1009 is dealer specific, either way code was cleared and haven't seen it all day! Car runs a hell of alot smoother, took it to Queens today to pick up some stuff. I will def keep an eye out every month checking the oil level to make sure I'm not burning it all too fast.

That's partly the reason why I stopped using synthetic. Between that and Paul's oil pressure comments and also because an oil change costs half as much with regular oil.

wuts up guys ive gotta reoccuring problem with my car its throwing a "slow response" code for my rear o2 sensor, soo i went ahead and replaced the o2 sensor cuz i was told thats wut i needed to do so i cud pass inspection...but guess wut...the cel came back the next day when i turned the car on smh...anyone had this problem before?

What's the CEL code you're getting?

What brand of sensor did you buy?

This is what I get for letting Gen drive my car today lol  :D

P0155 - A/F sensor 21 heater system malfunction
P0135 - A/F sensor 1 heater system malfunction
P2631 - AF sensor label circuit high voltage - 21
P2628 - AF sensor label circuit high voltage - 11
P2195 - AF sensor signal stuck - 11

Last time I got a shit ton of codes is when I installed the pre-cat deletes but the CEL went away on my way back from Auto Zone where I drove to return the o2 sensor tool. 

I'm hoping it'll go away tomorrow.  Will report back. 

Damn right that's what you get. It happened so you learn! j/k  :laugh:

How does the car drive with all those codes? Like normal? If so, clear the codes if you haven't already dude.

Mine came on yesterday.  

Oxygen sensor stuck lean
Misfire detected 1-6

Kinda the same deal as Milan.  Ever since I installed my K&N CAI the code will come on every 3 months or so and then shut off on its own within a day or two... idk. Lol

Idk about Milans but mine runs fine with the codes and I cant hear an actual misfire. So...

Yeah, mine runs fine too. Thinking it may really be the o2 sensors. They are probably still the original and the car has 167k miles.

Think of changing mine due to a lack of gas mileage.

They sooooo expensive tho... :(

Yeah they are, I had to replace all of them when I first got my car...

Always find a deal

As I suspected, the light went away on my way back from work.  Woot!  For now...

My CEL has been coming on and off for quite a while now.  Scanned it this weekend and I believe it was a P0132, which isn't on our list but I think if the primary O2 sensor again.  I had just replaced that less than 2 years ago with a legit OEM Deno part.  Before I ofrder yet another one, anyone got any ideas as to why I may be burning through these sensors so quickly?

No ideas on why but, you maybe able to clean it. Some old school hot rod guys told me a trick once upon a time about pulling the sensor and putting it in the freezer for 24 hours. Than tap it on some something to loosen the frozen sediment.

^ Odd trick.

Its worked for me in the past. Not on the Accord but the old timers will surprise you

Off topic, but I installed an intake and check engine light came on. Need help.Is it normal?

A CEL is not normal. What is the code you're getting for the CEL?

May not have plugged in the MAF or its dirty. One of the two.

Think it was 0171

Find out exactly what the code is and I'll look it up in the service manual.

Its 0171

P0171 - fuel supply system too lean

I'm betting that you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

is it an easy fix or a pain in the ass?

Posts from the intake gasket thread moved here. That being said, finding a vacuum leak is fairly easy if you have the tools for it. In the driveway without said tools, you could be hunting for hours. Since I assume all you did was install an intake, I'd check to make sure you didn't split the silicon coupler at the throttle body as that can cause your code.

A can of carb cleaner can help you find a vacuum leak.  Just make sure you do it when your engine is cold.

So I installed the stock intake and the cel didn't come back. After driving for 2 days I put the intake back on, boom cel is on. I'm thinking it's cause of a $50 intake? I've read that the light gives no problems, but it just disappointing seeing the light on.

Is it an intake or an intake manifold?

Depends on where the maf sensor is set in the pipe if you have an 06-07. And if it doesn't sit deep enough in the pipe.

It's a intake.

Looks like he has an '04.  That model year even have a MAF sensor?

The californian's do have one for the low emission vehicules.

Yeah. I tried restarting the sensor, it disappeared for sometime.

Gentlemen, on the way home from work today, I was cruising on the highway at about 70 mph and my CEL started flashing.  The engine started sounding very weird, kinda like a gurgling sound.  I managed to get her home with no issues.  I went out and got a code scanner and it came back with P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire.  Other than checking the spark plug (replaced them 30k ago), what should I do? 

Check the plugs, cool packs and wiring. If that doesn't work, check your valve lash.

I don't have a spark plug socket so I can't remove the plug tonight but the coil pack is dirty as hell and cracked at the tip.  The plug hole is filled with crude.  How bad is it?  :(

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(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/f3_zps33da0c97.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/f4_zps46fde6e7.jpg)

(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/ikethegreat/f5_zpsa1d12129.jpg)

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Hard to say.  I'd pull the plug and see what condition it's in.  If it looks fine, swap coil packs with another cylinder and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder.

The tip of the spark plug is missing..... I bought a new spark plug and coil pack.  Should I put them in and try it or am I fucked?

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Well, there's your problem.  Before doing anything else, I would see if Auto Zone or Advance Auto has a borescope that you can use to see inside your combustion chamber.  That way you can check if there are any pieces in there that may need to be fished out with a magnet.  You can also use a telescoping magnet to see if you can fish anything out, but you may not be able to get to any of the bits (if there are any).  If there are any bigger pieces that can't get out through the spark plug hole, you'll need to pull the head off.  At that point, there will probably be a bit of damage from loose metal getting slammed around your combustion chamber. 

If you were extremely lucky, maybe it went out of the chamber to the exhaust and didn't cause any serious damage. Never heard of a missing spark plug tip, is that a common issue ? Do you know how old the spark plugs were? they look kind of old

The spark plug had only about 30k on it.  I used a magnetic rod and couldn't fish anything out. Couldn't see anything in there either.  Replaced the plug and coil pack, and reset the CEL.  Started up fine and with no more check engine light.  The engine sounds pretty normal.  I drove it around for about 15 minutes with no problems.  Going to take it out on a longer trip now and see what happens.  I'm hoping the piece broke off and left before causing any serious problems. 

What could possibly cause the tip of the plug to break off?  Manufacturing defect?

Could have been a manufacturing defect.  Also could have been that the shop that installed them tried to gap them and damaged them.

I installed them myself actually. Drove for 60 miles today and not a single problem.  Thanks for the help!

Glad to hear everything is okay man.

Hi everyone, I am back on here for your help.

I have been having issues with my CAT code P0420 and now a second code has popped up P0141.  I did the research and saw its the 02 Sensor that goes right in the middle
of the catalytic converter. 

So my question is, is the CAT bad that is causing the sensor to go bad,  or is the sensor bad which is causing code P0420 to pop up.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.  Oh and I live California so apparently there are two different 02 sensors and of course the the sensor with California emissions is the most expensive.

(http://i.imgur.com/xfFMaKg.jpg)
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v(http://i.imgur.com/nZTU6N9.jpg)

If it were me, I'd replace the sensor first. I'd be surprised if there was any difference with the CA emissions Accord sensor and non-CA emissions sensor. You should call Colin at Auto Fair Honda in NH and he can help you figure out what will work for you.

The P0420 code is what you'd want to be worried about because it's for low catalyst efficiency. Basically, you'd need to replace your cat. You can use an O2 sensor spacer, but I know CA is pretty strict with emissions and it may not be a permanent solution to your problem.

Is the catalyst efficiency is measured by an O2 sensor? In my experience (more non Honda) changing the sensor generally clears up both codes.

Ok so, I just ordered the sensor, I am hoping this would solve it if not I am going to have to buy a very expensive CAT.. :'(                       

Good call on replacing the sensor only. I wouldn't replace the car just yet. You can get one of those O2 sensor spacers to get rid of the code if the new sensor doesn't fix it. I'd wait on getting a cat until you get an inspection and they do the sniffer test and tell you that you need a new cat.

Well I think I am going to have to buy a new cat, every morning when leaving to work, I start up my car and it just smell is so strong with gas fumes.   

Maybe I'm crazy but I hat wouldn't lead me to the cat... If you smell gas there is unburnt fuel which could be from a pile of things.

Could be a EVAP canister.  I know Mike loves changing those things.  :D

Yeah those are a blast. Could be plugs, a coil, evap canister, fuel line... List goes on

Wouldn't there be a code popping up if that was the case?   But I do have a code reader, and I deleted the two codes i had and P0141 came back on right away so changing the O2 sensor was must.

Depends a lot of the "emissions codes" can be caused by a bad 02 sensor. Ecu trying to correct for bad reading may cause other codes or to much fuel or air to be delivered. I've changed a saturated evap canister because of waiting to long to change a sensor (silly Toyotas). See what it does with the new sensor in a week or two your fuel smell could be gone. I had a fuel smell with my ac on for about a week after changing a coil recently.

I was gonna say exactly what Mike said. Change the primary O2 sensor (A/F) first and see what happens.

So I got O2 sensor on friday , and installed it this morning.
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I connected my code reader and deleted the old codes and only used the for a few errands and no code.
Now she is running again with no codes...  ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/6QRbfFC.jpg)

great news

Sensor come out easy? Sometimes they suck!

Bad news guys, well for me  :(   On my way back home from work the Damn light came back on.  So once I got home I got my code reader and I am getting P0420. 8-)

Looks like I am still going to have to buy a CAT..  So I guess I will start saving up for it.

Clear the code and see if it comes back.

There are a lot of things I'd try before buying the cat!

I will clear it tonight.  But can you list the thing that i could do solve it.

I have already removed the CAT and left it over night in a bucket of soapy water TWICE.... and P0420 keeps coming back.

So I was planning to clear the code when getting home, but just before arriving home from my 30 min commute the light went away.

Now its going back to its old habbits, it goes on an off when it chooses.

You should just monitor it and see what happens.

Which sensor did you replace again? The primary O2 (a/f) sensor before the cat, or the O2 sensor after the cat?

After the CAT,  well the one that goes right in the middle of the CAT

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2011-10-07_164736_1.gif (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2011-10-07_164736_1.gif)

Okay. Just making sure. The P0141 code hasn't returned, but the P0420 has?

There are really only 2 options. Since you live in CA, one option may be considered illegal, but it's inexpensive. That would be to get one of those O2 sensor spacer/restrictors. If they do a visual inspection of your exhaust, then you probably won't get away with using one. The other option is a replacement cat. I believe Magnaflow sells one that's around $100-150.

the key to getting away with the spacer is to spray your exhaust black so it all matches. The shiny spot is always a dead give away.

well its been a week and the light is still not coming back on..   so thanks for all the help guys

Glad it's working out for you.