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Looking for a detail diy with pictures  on the big 3 upgrade for are accords

There's no real DIY for this, but it's fairly simple.

1. - upgrade the cable from the alternator to the battery (+) terminal
2. - upgrade the cable from the chassis ground to the battery (-) terminal
3. - upgrade all of your engine to chassis grounds

what does all of this do???

i'm wondering the same thing. the only thing that came to mind when i saw big 3 was the detroit auto industry

improved grounding points. pretty self explenatory

I done the grounds wires but not to the (+) to the alternator  wanted to see a picture to get a idea of how someones done this

The Big 3 basically replaces your factory grounding wires and alternator wires with larger gauge wire for reduced resistance and increased current flow.  Think of it as the electrical equivalent of getting an aftermarket intake and exhaust to reduce the OEM bottleneck and help your engine breathe better.

I've only upgraded my battery to chassis ground to 1/0 cable so far.  I also have a voltage stabilizer (a.k.a. - a bunch of capacitors in series) with a ground kit going to a few of the factory engine grounds.  I plan on upgrading my chassis grounds with either 1/0 or 2 gauge cable when I have the opportunity.  Eventually, I will get around to upgrading my alternator cable to my battery.

Ok thanks. I get it now

tim did you notice a difference in how your car starts, or the lights, or your sound system from this? i mean it seems pretty easy to do.

It's been a while since I have done this, so I don't remember my impressions when I did it.

Ok, so where does one connect the wire going from alternator positive to battery positive.

Here's a pic of the alternator
(http://i32.tinypic.com/2njho9j.jpg)

Right here man.

(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/timot_one/Random%20Pictures/alternator.jpg)

is that wire bolted on or will it have to be sliced?

It's bolted on.  Just use a ring terminal on the wire, remove the bolt, and bolt the new wire on.  Don't forget to fuse the wire also.

how many amp would you say i should use if I am planning to use 0 gauge wire?

I think 0 gauge might be overkill.  Considering it's only a few feet for the run from your alternator to your battery, and I believe the peak output of the i4 alternator is 100 amps, I would use 4 gauge wire.  But, what do I know?

Nada, zip, zilch, zero, nothing.

Just kidding Tim. The man does know his shit. I'd listen to what he says.

Tim does know his shit but overkill in this situation isn't gonna do harm, not financially either because I got the wire for free :)

You can do what you want, but I wouldn't go with anything bigger than 2 gauge.  1/0 is just going to be difficult to work with.  That's why I recommended using 4 gauge.  It's going to be easier to work with, capable of handling the current from your alternator, and less expensive to fuse.  Yes, I did recommend fusing the alternator wire in the Big 3 upgrade.  I wouldn't add the wire without fusing it if you don't want to flambé your engine compartment.

Lol, flambe.  My friend gave me 0 gauge wire from an amp that was already fused. I know it's a pain in the ass to work with but I got it for free so I'll live :D.

I'll be using 4 gauge for mine.  I just need an in line fuse holder with a 100 amp fuse.

I seen amp wire kits that come with inline fuses will that work ? also about how many feet of wire would be needed ?

Probably no more than 4 or 5 feet.  I just need a fuse holder since I already have 4 gauge cable and plenty of ring terminals.

Could this potentially solve the headlights dimming between the A/C cycles?

I'm not really sure, but my guess is no.

What would? :cry:

Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/4-GAUGE-POWER-WIRE-AMP-KIT-OXYGEN-FREE-COPPER-IMC703BL_W0QQitemZ110356148674QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b1bd31c2&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1234%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50) got my self that and will upgrade the fuse to 100 amp

It was a response to this.





For doing the Big 3 upgrades, you're paying for a bunch of stuff you're not going to use.

i know but i will be needing the wiring when i add a sub to my system

I know, I am asking what would solve the headlights dimming b/w the A/C cycles?  

Well, you could get rid of your a/c compressor.  When your a/c compressor clutch kicks in, it puts a load on the engine, lowering the RPM's for a second and reducing the output voltage of the alternator.  You could use a voltage stabilizer (a.k.a. - bank of capacitors) to reduce changes in voltage, but I haven't noticed much of a difference with mine.

I like my A/C. I guess I have a few electrical upgrades I should do...

Are you talking about these:
http://www.nengun.com/buddy-club/racing-spec-condenser (http://www.nengun.com/buddy-club/racing-spec-condenser)
http://www.nengun.com/pivot/raizin-volt-stabilizer-blue (http://www.nengun.com/pivot/raizin-volt-stabilizer-blue)

Or actual capacitors?

you don't need actual capacitors Any of those will be good depending how much you looking to spend  since basically there also capacitors

Well, those voltage stabilizers are just a bank of capacitors with a grounding kit.  There's no need to add a capacitor though.  I have the Buddy Club racing spec condenser, but haven't noticed a difference from before I had it.  I guess you could try a small capacitor between the alternator and battery, but I'm pretty sure it won't make much of a difference.

Heres how i did mines but i didt take the blot off the alternator i slice the wire closest i could to the connection  taped it as good as i could then i ran the wire to a cap with 100amp fuse to my (+) battery terminal this setup is temporary i will be getting a distribution block to run another to a amp&sub
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3166/img00190200907170932.jpg)
amp wiring kit
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/2600/img00191200907171413.jpg)
the red wire runs  trough the gray one and taped it off i took a lot of the red covering off to get it to fit stock looking
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9615/img00193200907171507.jpg)
fused it n bamm all done

Clemente, do you still have the factory wire hooked to your alternator? If you do, your asking for problems, i.e. a fire, if you leave it like that. The idea is to replace the cable going to your alternator. Not add to it.

there both hooked up so i guess ill have to just remove the factory one and leave the new one just directly to the battery?

Pretty much. Put a new terminal on the end of the cable you have taped to the factory cable and hook that up to the alternator as well as the battery side. Personally, I wouldn't leave the factory cable just hanging there. I'd remove it completely.

Iight am doing it now thank for the tip

The idea is to add an additional wire actually.  You're basically just reducing the resistance for current to flow from your alternator to your battery.  Slicing your OEM wiring harness is a BAD idea.  Only using electrical tape, water WILL get in and over time the conductor will corrode and will eventually create an open.  You want to take the wire, add a ring terminal to that, bolt it to the terminal on your alternator.   Splicing the wire is just asking for trouble.  I bet that was a motherfucker to solder.  You did solder it, right?

Ok. Well, I stand corrected. From the way he has it hooked up, I'd much rather replace the cable. Learn something new everyday.

The way it's been explained to me, is that you're just adding another path for current to flow.  A 4 gauge and an 8 gauge cable of equal length will have less total resistance than a 4 gauge cable alone.

soo i i keep both wires ill set it up that way and yes i solider the ends of the new terminal

True. But current also chooses the path of least resistance. Therefore, theoretically, the 8 gauge wire wouldn't see much current if any due to the current going down the 4 gauge cable.

Clemente, go with what Tim is saying. The way you had it before looked too damn dangerous to me and defeated the purpose.

so i set it up the way timot_one said n solder the wires to gold terminal also taped it up, also customize the stock rubber piece that protects the connection to fit the wires    i will see how it holds up tonight on my way to work ill see if i notice any difference
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/3317/img00194200907171644.jpg)

That looks good bro. It should be fine.

Looks better Clemente.  Johnathan, I'm about to start pulling out the big words now.

Kirchoff's Current Law states:
- when current leaves series to enter parallel branches, all the current that leaves must return to series
- the amount of current that enters each branch is inversely proportional to the resistance in that branch

Same friend who gave me 0 gauge wire and fuse, had a 4 gauge and fuse to offer so I took that.(Yes he has quite a few wires laying around). I will do this as soon as I get a new positive battery terminal.

So after a 1hr 1/2 drive everthing seems good the car feels like a champ i turn everthing on ac on high lights and all and car still drove great

Tim, just wondering why you have to fuse the wire when you upgrade the alternator wire? I'm guessing because the stock fuse not enough amperage to handle the bigger wire? Wouldn't that just make the fuse blow faster? This should probably be my next wiring upgrade so I just wanted to clarify.

Fusing the wire is a safety feature.  Technically, you don't need to.  I don't believe the OEM wiring harness has a fuse between the alternator and the battery.  I would actually have to pull the harness apart and follow it first.  The reason why I recommend a fuse is to protect your battery from blowing up in case something goes wrong.  It's just my opinion, but I'd rather not chance causing an electrical fire over a $5 part.

You had to go there! I learned all of that at school a couple of years ago, but also did a bit of data dumping. The way the military crams so much information in so little time will spin heads. Either way, he got the job done so that's what counts.

BTW, my name doesn't have an "h" after the "o." (http://www.energeticforum.com/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)

Damn you and you're silly letters Z.

You know you wish you could pull off the letters like I do T.

when adding a wire from the battery to the fuse box, do i connect the wire to the white or black wire?

Wait, what?  Why are you adding a wire from the battery to the fuse box?  I'm assuming that you mean the OEM engine fuse box, right?

yes, that is correct, i have upgraded the wire from the alternator  to the battery, ground to battery, and battery to fuse box. I'm confused on where to mount the wire from the battery to the fuse box

Ummm.  Why would you be upgrading the wire from the battery to the fuse box?  The OEM wiring is sufficient.  You're confused on where to connect it because there are no instructions, since it is unnecessary to do.