I had a similar issue when I installed mine.  I too tested the relays and such but through the use of a multimeter found that one of the relays was getting power at times it shouldn't.  The problem was with how my dad and I added those loose wires into the 13pin connector? (It's been awhile so don't remember exacts).  One of us, I'll blame it on him, glanced at the diagram upside down for one of the wires and places it on the opposite side.  As far as I can remember, that is the only place you can really screw this up.  If it were wired correctly and it still didn't work it should be a little easier to troubleshoot.  You can hear the relays click as the fog lights are turned on and the other when the high beams are turned on (I believe).  Follow the power from the source and see where you lose it when the headlights are on and they should have power.  I personally like using the multimeter on the continuity setting.  This just tells you if what you are touching the two prongs to are connected by usually buzzing.  Meaning if you put one of multimeter leads to either side of the relay, it shouldn't buzz but once you turn the headlights on and the relay is activated, those to wires you have the lead on should be connected and then it will buzz.  Not all multimeters have this feature.  Otherwise you'd have to set it to read volts dc and put one lead to a ground and the other to the point you want to test.  It should read around 12volts everywhere there is power or less for whatever reason.  Either way, I'd check that 13 pin connector first and look over the directions again for any places that could have been screwed up, like anything other than plugging in two wire clips. 

On a side note, when I got mine, the led's in the switch were bad and nothing lit up.  I replaced the on/off indicator led but left the backlight one alone because the color of light coming through was off and looked cheap next to all the other lights on the dash though it does come on randomly.  The point is, even if your lights aren't on, you may still be getting power up there, it's just the leds.  That's why it's pretty helpful to get used to trouble shooting with a multimeter.

Well I did drop the tires down to 32 front and 29 rear and feel it made a suprising difference.  I feel stupid for never asking about that from the start.

In defence of the nitrogen vs air.  I have noticed that since I bought these tires, last april 2010, the tire pressure did not change one pound till today when I dropped the pressures.  All four tires held the exact same numbers as they did the day I picked them up. I can't say anything similar to any other set of tires I've had on cars or motorcycles.  So at the very least, they are good for the reliability aspect, especially for those who are too lazy to actively monitor such things.  That's the only aspect right now that I can vouch for.

Alright, thanks guys for the quick responses.  And thanks Mark for the effort you obviously invested in looking that information up.  I'll be sure to drop those today before I head off to the mountains.

Hey guys, awhile ago I bought some Enkei EDR9 rims with a packaged deal including some Hankook evo 12 tires.  Since I ordered them as a package, the factory was going to mount the tires using some special wheel balancing machine that finds hard spots and such by putting weight on the tire and also fill the tires with nitrogen.  Well, as you guys know, our cars call for appox. 29 psi (can't remember exact numbers), but these tires came with 42 pounds. I didn't want to mess with them because I was thinking that maybe the pressure was higher because of the nitrogen vs 02 or because the rubber was softer than factory tires and that was to add more support to the sidewalls.  This is the second summer I've been running them like that and I've had a couple people mention that my tire pressure is too high.  Looking at the tires and their wear, it doesn't appear to be showing any signs of over inflation.  Should I drop the pressure down to factory or keep it where it was originally set?

By the way, I was avoiding messing with the tire pressure because of a lack of shops in my area with nitrogen so that's why I turn to you fine gentlemen.

Thanks

Oh, I guess I should clarify.  It's not chattering at low speeds in first gear, only when releasing the clutch.  As soon as it is fully released it stops.  The only other strange/abnormal thing with my car that I noticed is, since day one of owning it, after being parked overnight, I'd back out of my driveway and as I pull out turning the wheel in the oppisite direction now I'd feel a thud in the pedals and steering wheel.  It only ever happens on the first turn of the wheel moving forward.  I'm not sure if the two problems would be related in anyway.  But other than that, there is no whines or anything else with the car, well besides the lack of some serious engine mods.

And I'll have to apologize.  I just went down there and checked out the motor mounts.  The one under the throttle body looks to have a trapezoidish cut out in the top piece which, as far as I know, is supposed to be there but whatever is underneith of it (looking through the cutout) looks all frayed.  I did not try taking the stress off of the mounts yet with the jack but I did try replicating the chattering for my dad, which for the life of me I could not reproduce. As of now I can't do it again.  I hate those problems that only show themselves when no one else is around and make you look stupid when trying to show someone...

All of the mounts seemed to hold pretty solid with just hard shots of gas.  Each one had a very slight rock to them.  Maybe I'll have to wait this one out and see if anymore symtoms arise.

That's a good idea about jacking up on the motor.  I'll have to check each of the mounts before  and after lifting from the motor after work tomorrow. 

And no, I don't remember noticing that the entire dash rattles during this.  I only notice it in the pedals.  I can recreate it and make sure but I feel like that should be avoided.  Maybe you should try pulling out at very low rpms and see if it's the same situation for you.

I was talking to my dad about this and he brought up that it could be the throw out bearing going bad.  That could explain why I've read about a lot of people replacing their clutch and the problem stopping.  I don't know much about the mechanics of the clutch and throw out bearing so I can't rule in favor or against the throw out bearing.  I will say that car only has 60k miles on it and would think it's a bit early for anything like that to be going bad.

Thanks for the quick comments guys.

Hey guys, I'm having a similar problem to what gargantula99 was having with chattering when pulling out it first gear only a little different.  I first noticed it when I let some girl with an STI drive my car(assuming she knew how to drive a clutch).  She was rough getting use to the clutch and bucked a lot and one time, pulling out at really low RPM's you could feel something chattering in the suspension or clutch, feeling it both in the clutch pedal and gas.  I can recreate it any time I want by pulling out slowly at low rpms.  I'm not sure if it could be one of the engine mounts because I detail the engine bay regularly and am under the car often and there are no signs of leaks anywhere on the vehicle.  Any idea of where to look?  I'm only worried because it gives me the feeling that something snapped in the suspension or something and I want to fix it before anything gets worse.

By the way, if you drive it like race car off the line, you'd never know.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Steve