I'll actually be driving through your town Paul in about four hours.  Visiting my buddy in Centreville for the weekend. I didn't know he lived so close to the King of Accords.  Maybe one time I can stop by and check out your work and maybe start a project of my own.

If I choose to.  They offer more pay for sub duty but I also have the option to be stationed on a carrier which I'll probably take since it leaves me with a lot more options.  Honestly, one of my major motivations for doing this was for the money that can be put towards the Accord. Got a giant wish list with a puny bank account.

Don't do it!

haha, it's already done. No turning back. At least six years in the Navy as a Nuke.

Alright, take your time.  I got till September before I ship out to basic training, so plenty of time.

Alright, its cool.  Take your time.  I appreciate the effort.

http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N530T_1-00.pdf

Does this link provide you with the information you'd need to see if it would work or not?

Oh, I see.  That DEI module does more than I thought.  The only question is am I able to make it work with the factory passenger power window system?

I imagine I'd have to at least replace the switch so it would know when to go up/down partially and when to go auto, like the driver switch. Or did you give up manual control over your windows for the auto function, assuming you still have the factory passenger window switch on the driver panel?

I've been wanting to look into this for awhile.  I would really like to replace the passenger switch on the driver door with an auto up/down switch.  Only having one window with that feature kind of defeats the purpose cause you still gotta hold your hand there to move the passenger window.  I've never had the door panel pulled to notice how the power windows are set up, so I'm just looking for anyone who has been in there to let me know if this is even possible.  One exploded view I found of the door makes it look like all the switches are all part of one fixed unit.  If this is correct then I doubt I'd be able to replace a single switch then.  If that is the case, are the 3rd gen TL interiors similar to our cars like the drivetrain parts are? Any chance the Acura line used auto up/down window switches for both passenger and driver?  Thanks for any info.

I would just take it out and measure it yourself.  It is really easy to get out.  There's probably a how to on here for getting the cubby out.  Pop it out, fit your plastic piece at the depth you want it and then with it out you can find a way to mount the face plate.  You can always do something as simple as bolting some butt blocks in so the face plate has something to rest against and hold it in place and then silicone the face plate to the butt blocks when you have all your gauges mounted.  You obviously already planned on cutting holes in the cubby to run your wiring so I wouldn't think you'd have anything against drilling holes to mount those blocks.   This is just some quick solution, I'm sure there are other, more professional ways of doing it.  Hope it at least gets you thinking.

In regards to the spark plug, it was leaking at the valve cover where the gromet goes around the spark plug tube, not down at the plug... The plug itself was completely clean and fine.

I know you're not a J series guy but I can't be certain I would have cleaned everything that could have been clogged. 



Obviously I cleaned the intake runners by using carb cleaner and shooting it down from the top and up from the underside.  If you look at the picture, the very front portion of the IM by the throttle body is segregated and was much dirtier.  It came much cleaner but not perfect.  If you look at the lower left hand corner of the picture, that wavy tube like thing get bolted inside that segregated area as well.  It runs straight through and has a whole in the center that corresponds to a whole in the IM that was really built up with something resembling rust. (you can see half of the hole in the picture in the center of the segregated portion)  That stuff there was all I cleaned.  I don't know whats on either side of the tube like thing or if any of the passages back there are small enough in diameter to get clogged.

I was a little rushed on the clean up of the IM... Maybe I should find another excuse to rip it off and give it a more detailed cleaning....

The plug wasn't damaged or anything.  Only the coil pack had a little build up on it and the metal on the shaft of the coil pack was a little rusted.  It all cleaned up real quick with some emory cloth.  I first noticed the dirty coil pack a year ago when I changed the plugs and cleaned it then and now I finally found out why it was dirtier than the others.  As for the valve cover not being torqued correctly, I should have been the first one to take the valve cover off of the car.  That would be how it came from the factory.

I'm not really sure what to make of any of this.  Like I said, this was my first hands on experience of the internals of a engine.  I'll just be sure to pull my pcv valve often and make sure its clean.  It's as simple as one bolt on the front valve cover. Hopefully thats the only issue there really was, aside from the bad seals.

I'm not certain in what way the pcv wasn't working(stuck open or stuck closed) but you could tell the bearing wasn't moving at all like the new one was.  The pcv valve is completely different from any I've seen before.  Both my buddy, a mechanic at a local shop, and the tech at Honda when I bought the valve were really interested in it as they've never seen anything like it before.  I'm sure I could've sprayed carb cleaner in it and it probably would have been fine but I like having new part, no matter how small.  If I can find it in the trash I'll try to see if I can blow through it or not.  I was hoping it had something to do with the pcv because my buddy said that was probably the reason why I had a tiny leak around the middle spark plug since the pvc wasn't releasing the pressure and that was the weakest point.  Based on that theory, the pvc would have been stuck closed. 

If Paul has time to respond to this, great, otherwise I don't want to bother him cause it seems like he's always busy and I'd rather him spend his time working on more goodies for the J series.

Well the front set was where the pcv valve was and it was not working properly.  Would that cause something like this?

Well, no I didn't notice any decline i performance but it probably would be so gradual that I couldn't have noticed.  Though the car does seem to accelerate quite a bit smoother and harder.  The adjustments made to the valves were all pretty minor.  Other than fixing a few small leaks in the front valve cover with the new gasket sets, the PCV valve was replaced and appeared to be clogged or bad.  The IM was really dirty, a bunch of black flakes and gunk gathered in corners.  The front section of the IM near the throttle body, the EGR section I'm guessing was especially dirty.  Everything was solid black in that chamber.  I cleaned everything out before reinstalling.  So the improved acceleration feel could be from the valves being adjusted, the new pcv or the cleaned out IM, or all of them.  Thats about all I noticed when doing the job, not sure if that gives you any idea of what could be the cause.