That could be interesting to try. Maybe try 4 magnetic switches, aon the side edges or something, There are other types of reed switches that could be used, I have never tried them though...
So I know Im new but I mentioned this in another thread and it got some interest so I am going to post a quick blurb about it.
*****FIRST OF ALL LIKE ALL OTHER MODS PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK*****
So I dont usually park my car in gear, but there could eb a time that the shifter gets knocked, or if someone else parks it, or a situation arose that the Ebrake would not hold (ie a hill, etc. ) So I went to the internet to search for ways to create a NSS (neutral safety switch) . The design I found was extremely simple, just glue a magnet to your shifter and use a reed switch either N/O or N/C (Normally open or normally closed) and use relays to create the signal, which could tie into the alarm to a number of trigger wires, but the one I was targeting was the hood pin switch, which will not allow the alarm to start or even engage on most alarms. I had thought about using the brake, but using a diode so the lights were not on and relaying on another component for not failing was not desirable.
The simplistic design of the magnetic idea was the ticket, but crude. So I decided to learn a bit about high powered magnets. My first idea was to use a cyllinder magnet and just slide it down the shaft, and glue it in place..... except for the indentation that would have to be sanded off, and then allow the stock boot to fall this was ok, but a no go. So then it dawned on me.... RC cars have motors that are pieces, that go together to form a circle. So I searched Ebay and found a decent one I think it was somewhere between 7 and 15 bucks? (over a year ago) The design allowed for 2 things, to not modify the shaft, and the magnets stuck to themselves, and also to the shifter, making glue not needed. So here is how it works, the magnets form together in a certain order (this is important) because they have a special positive and special negative end when they come together it is very difficult to get them apart, and they also combine magnetic properties to create a circular field. (invisible of course)
When the final adjustments were made, the shifter closes the connection causing the tester to chime. when it is in neutral, there is no interference.
This is how it ended up coming together. The magnets were slightly larger so that is why there is an opening at the back, but this proved helpful in dialing in the sensitivity.
Im hoping the video shows, but here is how it works, when its in gear it completes a circuit, and thats the beep you hear.
if the video does not play here is the link to download it
Now, this has been in my car for almost a year and it still functions. I have not hooked the alarm to it yet, but another thing I was doing was to hook a LED somewhere so it would light when its in gear. (could not find a place that wasnt annoying when driving yet)
Anyone who knows a bit about circuits and relays knows you can use this for multiple triggers and by adding relays could change polarity, cut a circuit, etc.
So far it works, and the whole thing cost me less than 30 bucks.
I thought about trying to use the trigger when at rest to trigger a light in the dash or cluster that could be in essential, just like the neutral light on a motorcycle.
Hope this shows up, if not I will try again later to add the pic and video.
Maybe someone can get some use out of this, but like I said YOUR OWN RISK....
I purchased an alarm with remote start awhile ago and have not gotten around to installing it yet. (seems like that has been a trend for awhile) But now that Im graduated, and taking some time off, I plan to do the alarm this summer. Going to be interesting because I have a manual. I created (reinvented) a neutral safety switch that has been testing for awhile in the car, and so far (about a year almost) it is still functional. It is such a simple circuit, I dont understand why they do not make something like it commercially for manual transmissions. This wiring code will help me better find the wires, the one I got from DEI's site (through a connection because they won't share) gives a rough idea but not fully. Thanks for this :-)
Thanks, I do have the rear TL-S sway bar upgrade also, forgot about that. The place near me does alignments a single time for like 70 or 80 and has a lifetime alignment package for 200 I think, so I may do that, its not much more than 2 alignments and if they couldnt get it the first time, Id have to get another one after getting the arms or joints. I just have no experience with just the joints every car I have had that was lowered had the full upper arms, installed by a previous owner. (First car I bought stock and modded)
I am going to take a few shots of the car tonight and see if I can upload them.
I searched but could not find a post that quite fit my issue and question, so I wanted to ask.
Ok, so I have a 2004 Accord Coupe 6speed, and have it lowered (unknown exact amount) but it is not too much. The wheels are Avant Garde 19 inch... Have to check offset, I dont remember what I ended up settling on.
When I lowered it (Form and Function 1) had the rims mounted, and balanced, it has a weird vibration that nobody can seem to pinpoint, just between certain speeds, then it smooths out like its on rails, then has a slight shimmy 30 Mph later, then rails again... Weird, right? It also grabs and is very squirrelly when accelerating and sometimes driving on not so flat roads (most of the roads in MD) So I had the rims balanced twice, 2 different ways, one using clip on weights, and one using stick ons. Stick ons took the most out. The wheels read balanced on the digital balancer....
So my mechanic said that the tie rod end on one side was slightly (ever so ) worn, and could be the issue, so I bought new ones to replace inners and outers, upgrading to Moogs from stock. I am going to have these put on, then go get an alignment and see if it cures the issue, but I thought of something and wanted to ask..
I specifically do not want any angle camber on the vehicle. Some people like the look, but its not for me... I am in NO way bashing it at all, just not my thing.
When I got the suspension (used) guy sent me a rear camber kit for free. I never installed it though, and wondered if I should install that, and get something for the front? So here lies the question..
I dont want to have the wheels lean at all, and most of the threads were (to my understanding which could be wrong) to create more lean, to allow the clearance of the wheels. I want to go the other way. Keep it straight, like stock. My car does not have much, it is very little camber on the front and back of the vehicle, barely noticeable. But I figured, if Im having the alignment done, Maybe I should upgrade the front joints, and install the rear camber kit.
So... BEcause I want to go to straight, would arms, or just adjustable joints on factory arms be better? Complete arms are a little more expensive, and if its not needed, or it will not do anything positive for the vehicle, I dont want to add the extra cost.
Has anyone used these to get rid of camber not add camber, and what is my best choice? (recommendations)
I saw Skunk 2, Megan and of course Ebay complete arms, and Ignalls adjustable joints...
** as you can see in the picture, it is not that low, I may have raised it after this also, I need a more recent pic. I cant find any stock measurements from the ground to the door bottom to get an idea of how low it is....
About Me: Real Name: Chris Location: Clear Spring, MD Occupation:Systems Administrator Interests: Cars, Going fast, Computers, Cars, Bikes, Electronics, customization,and much more
About My Car: Model: Color: Silver Engine: V6 Tranny: Nope... Straight :-P (sorry had to) Manual
Current Mods/Future Plans: So far I have Tint, window deflectors, Front Brembo blanks, Stereo, subs, LED interior, LED exterior (including Headlights), Shift knob, TLS rear sway, Avant Garde Rims, Form and Function Coilovers, Magnaflow cat back exhaust and Rv6 PCD's. Purchased waiting to go on: Silver trimmed steering wheel, Rear Brembo blanks, Polk Audio door speakers, (building a plexiglass faced box with Blacklight LED and glow designs) Remote start (custom non engaging gear sensing switch installed for a year and testing working so far).. Black housing headlights, Morimoto LED foglights, Just got the CAI back from powdercoating, Fujita, coated clear blue,LED tail light housings, Hmmm Im sure there is more in my pile of parts..... Future: When I can find one for the right price, AIT rear window spoiler, Wrapped hood/ bumper, misc other parts on the car, Maybe some go faster parts..
Pictures:
More about me:
HightechRedneck- This name was given to me by someone once and it stuck. I live in the country where the only place that will deliver to me is a gas station pizza place, but that's still 5 miles away. Most of the locals are Farmers, or construction workers.... One day someone said.... you are one of them High tech rednecks aren't ya...... and it stuck... Along with Macguyver from all of my other jobs... On most other websites I am Hightechredneck....
I just finished my Masters degree in Information Technology with a 4.0, and am class valedictorian speaker on 6/7/2015. I wanted to post more but have been busy with that stuff. I work as a Systems Admin at a medical simulation center in Silver Spring. I Love ALL cars, but admit I do not know EVERYTHING about them. My dream car is Elanor... I remember sitting in one when I was 14, and the owner let me rev the motor... that is what got me into cars in general. I LOVE the Fast and Furious movies, and don't care that most of the scenes are not realistic, It lets me get out of my life for awhile. This is the first car I have ever modified so extensively, before this, over 10 years ago, I used to race Bikes. Oh, I'm a little older than most of the Honda heads I have seen, But don't let that fool you, You do not have to give up things you enjoy just because of a number.. I mainly joined this site to find ideas and parts, gain some knowledge along the way, and hopefully share some. I designed a switch that is for a remote start to sense when the car is in gear, and not start, sort of a neutral safety switch... Not a new concept, but my design is one step better than any I have seen. I will share it sometime when I am confident it is strong enough to handle the elements and not fail. So far it has stood up to freezing temps, summer will tell about extended heat... I also designed a signal switch almost 20 years ago that I tested and the concept was well accepted by most true drivers. If I can get the design to digital drawing, I could print it 3d at work... Maybe in time... Ummm... Probably more but Someone just clicked a link and downloaded a virus, so I have to go to work...
Have a good day guys, Glad to meet you, I see some familiar names from other sites, hopefully I will get to know more of you soon.
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