Ask DetailedImage.com...

[Mike]

Neel,

Take a look at the  Detailed Image Detailing Guide if you are looking for specific products to use (I believe your car is silver) there is a list that Greg put together for me a few pages back in this thread.

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

Greg. do you have guide on which wax to use for which color car? i have a lot of waxes and would be nice to know which to use for which color car. some say which color its best on but some dont

[asnstyle22]

i recently noticed my door seal is starting to crack, do i need to replace it or is there a fix for it?

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

what you mean crack? if rubber part physicaly cracked its better to replace it and use rubber conditioner from now on. it will help in winter as well so door wont stick in cold weather

[asnstyle22]

well its not cracked cracked... the rubber is mostly black and still looks good but where it bends or folds when the door closes on it has turned white and looks like it is dying/cracking.. not torn yet

[Mike]

You could apply  Aerospace 303 to it to extend the life, and maybe get some of the color back. Obviously application would need to be done before it tears.

[DetailedImage.com]

hi. I was wondering whats the best way to wax ur car?.. I have always washed and waxed it but I haven't really looked in dept of how to actually properly wax my car. I have clayed my car like 2 times and since I havent done it. I would like to get Ur suggestion for a noob like me in this area. my main goal is to properly clean the car inside out.

Thanks for the inquiry and I'm happy to help.  It sounds like you are looking for a full detailing routine to help take your detailing to the next level.  It sounds like you already have been washing, using a clay bar and protecting the paint with a wax.  The only major piece you are missing is using a polish that will help remove oxidation, light swirls, etc. and help restore a brilliant finish to the paint.  I generally recommend a two step process for best results with a quality medium and light polish.  The Meguiar's M105 and M205 or the Menzerna PO83 and PO106FA are two of my favorite combos that provide outstanding results.  Use them after the wash and clay bar and follow up with a sealant and/or wax.  If you have any other questions please let me know.  

For the interior you can do a full detail with either the:
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Package ... -Kit-P152/ OR
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Package ... Care-P151/

As mentioned above the Detailed Image Detailing Guide (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/) will be a huge help to you.  It has tons of great tips and step by step instructions.

i recently noticed my door seal is starting to crack, do i need to replace it or is there a fix for it?

Replacing it is the only way to make it look like new again.  The 303 Aerospace Protectant can help protect it from UV rays.  The Black WOW can help make it look darker again.  However neither option will fix the crack, just improve the appearance.

[DetailedImage.com]

Greg. do you have guide on which wax to use for which color car? i have a lot of waxes and would be nice to know which to use for which color car. some say which color its best on but some dont

I don't have a wax guide for all colors.  The only wax chart we have is for all the Dodo Juice Waxes - http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Juice-Pick-Wax/.  We've thought about making one but it's tough because so much of it is subjective.  Additionally there is very flat and metallic colors that totally change the look of any one color.  Silver can mean 100x different things depending on each individual car.  We try to highlight some of that information in the product descriptions but I know a chart could be really helpful.  If you ever would like a recommendation for a color please let me know and I can do my best to help.

[timot_one]

Greg,

I have a few questions.  First, my car will be re-painted in few weeks (hopefully) after some body work I had done to shave badges and moldings and a few minor body modifications.  I will be having my entire car re-sprayed.  Since I know it will be getting a fresh coat of paint, I'm going to use this as an opportunity to practice on the old paint in case I make a mistake.  Is there anything you can suggest that I do to have my car prepped before being painted?  After I get it painted, is there anything you would suggest that I do to maintain the new finish?  From what I know, I should not polish or wax it for a period of time after it's been painted.  

My other question is about products and packages that you offer.  I already have a ton of different polishes, waxes, and other detailing products.  The one thing that I'm missing in my line of "stuff" is a proper set of pads for my PC.  What would you suggest as a "starter" package of pads?  I've been looking at the Lake Country 6.5" and 5" pads.  What would be the benefit of the larger and smaller pads?

Thanks for your help.

[Mike]

What shampoo would you suggest?

[Paulius005]

Tim,

What drying process are you using after the car is painted? Heating up the booth or heat lamp? If it's heat lamp more experienced painters can get the clear to dry and be waxable right after it's done. My mom's MDX's bumper got repainted and the paint matching was perfect and the clear coat didn't have orange peal and was also perfect and waxable.

Otherwise the typical wait time before waxing is 90 days.

[timot_one]

It will be dried in a booth.

[AV6NHBP6SPD]

Greg,

I have a few questions.  First, my car will be re-painted in few weeks (hopefully) after some body work I had done to shave badges and moldings and a few minor body modifications.  I will be having my entire car re-sprayed.  Since I know it will be getting a fresh coat of paint, I'm going to use this as an opportunity to practice on the old paint in case I make a mistake.  Is there anything you can suggest that I do to have my car prepped before being painted?  After I get it painted, is there anything you would suggest that I do to maintain the new finish?  From what I know, I should not polish or wax it for a period of time after it's been painted.  

My other question is about products and packages that you offer.  I already have a ton of different polishes, waxes, and other detailing products.  The one thing that I'm missing in my line of "stuff" is a proper set of pads for my PC.  What would you suggest as a "starter" package of pads?  I've been looking at the Lake Country 6.5" and 5" pads.  What would be the benefit of the larger and smaller pads?

Thanks for your help.

good to hear Tim. im sure you wont tell us the color till its done. not sure what kinda prep needed to repaint. id say degrease the car completely so it doesnt have any wax on it, doesnt have bugs or tar anywhere. not sure how painters do prep, if they wetsand it before applying primer or what.
also find out what kinda clear coat gona be used, most aftermarter once are pretty hard but not as hard as ceramic clear thats used on VW and MB and some other makes

usualy you have to wait 3-6 month before you can wax/seal the car so all gasses from paint can escape during that time, if you put sealant on the car it will trap all gasses that need to escape and paint can get fucked up.

do you know if car gona be wetsanded after it dries?
we have rsx that just been painted by my friend and we have to wetsand it and polish it, it will be fun project to see how mirror like we can get it.

now to pads, id go with smaller pad, i use 5" for ether flat area or doing final polish since no correction work needed there, smaller pad will create heat faster which is key to paint correction, smaller pad uses less polish so you will waste less as well. so with larger pad it will take more polish and probably more time to fix the paint. since your car relatively flat you can go with 5.5" pads, maybe get 4" for tight areas but then you gona need 3.5" backing plate as well.

[DetailedImage.com]

What shampoo would you suggest?

Oh man we have so many good shampoos it's really hard to say.  If you want to remove left over wax and sealant the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash is awesome (http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-G ... /16-oz-S1/).  If you just want a maintenance shampoo that doesn't remove any sealant or wax the Chemical Guys Maxi Suds, Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds, Dodo Juice Born to be Mild and so many others are awesome.  Best of all they are all on sale through 5/12, if you click here - http://www.detailedimage.com/Sales/Sham ... 0-Off-SP5/.  If you have any questions please let me know!

[DetailedImage.com]

Greg,

I have a few questions.  First, my car will be re-painted in few weeks (hopefully) after some body work I had done to shave badges and moldings and a few minor body modifications.  I will be having my entire car re-sprayed.  Since I know it will be getting a fresh coat of paint, I'm going to use this as an opportunity to practice on the old paint in case I make a mistake.  Is there anything you can suggest that I do to have my car prepped before being painted?  After I get it painted, is there anything you would suggest that I do to maintain the new finish?  From what I know, I should not polish or wax it for a period of time after it's been painted.  

My other question is about products and packages that you offer.  I already have a ton of different polishes, waxes, and other detailing products.  The one thing that I'm missing in my line of "stuff" is a proper set of pads for my PC.  What would you suggest as a "starter" package of pads?  I've been looking at the Lake Country 6.5" and 5" pads.  What would be the benefit of the larger and smaller pads?

Thanks for your help.

Before hand I'm not sure if anything should be done.  If you are taking it to a good shop I would think it would not matter too much.  However if you want to clean it and strip off contaminants and old sealant or wax I think that could help potentially.  I think practicing on the old paint is fine assuming you are being reasonable with it.  After having it painted

I'm surprised to hear it's being baked, that is very rare.  Assuming it's being baked I believe you can wash and protect the paint like normal after about a week.  Consult the shop for exact time frames.  I would just be extremely cautious with your washing process and I'd protect it with a sealant and/or wax as soon as you can.  Check out our Detailing Guide to make sure you have the best techniques for washing and drying.  Additionally you need quality products to ensure you don't add swirls to the surface.  For protection I would definitely use a sealant like the Blackfire Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock.  Both are extremely durable and easy to use, while making any color look awesome.  If desired layer a wax on top of it for added protection and gloss!  Let me know the color and I can provide a recommendation if desired.  

For orbital buffer the smaller pads get more polishing/cutting power.  Other than the size doesn't impact the detail too much, more personal preference.  All three sizes are fine, I generally suggest the 4" or 5.5". Here is a general guideline for the pads and what products they work best with:

Yellow and Purple Foam  - Medium to Heavy Cutting
Orange and Cyan - Medium Cutting
Green - Light Cutting
White and Tangerine - Polishing Pad
Black and Crimson - Fine Polishing Pad
Blue - Ultra Fine Polishing Pad

We have several kits with quantity discounts on our site if interested.  You can have any combination of pads you'd like by adding a comment to the comment field while checking out.  If you have any other questions please let me know.