Need build idea for my k24a4

[BliNx197]

+1 to what Tim said. For now stick with Bolt-ons until you really get a grip on what your doing/want. I think everyone has gone through this phase wanting the biggest mod first and trying to ignore typical bolt-ons before it. Raising compression will help with power but installing OEM used pistons into another engine block, is never a good idea, enough said on that point.

If you really want something on the budget, why did you bring up the TSX pistons+rods and having them installed to raise compression? Because an engine build is no cheap install. As I said go with Bolt-ons because apparently many of us are making upwards of 190hp with them anyways.

If you really want a nice power gain tho, go with a S/C. I dont say this because im doing it, I say it because F/I is quick hp, can be reverted back to stock with little work about 90% of the time, and S/Cs specifically dont have the intensive maintenance time that a turbo requires and also saves on drivability. (not bagging turbos, theyre just harder to keep up with) and if your really looking to run normal 87 octane it can be tuned for that, youll lose power but save $$$ I guess.

[thisaznboi88]

Alright THANKS EVERYONE!!! I will do all the other bolt on first (still missing a few). If I am not happy. Then I will figure it out. Thanks for clearing everything out for a noob like me. ur help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!  :smile:

[timot_one]

And basically why I want to get it done by within a budget is basically the whole point of a k24/20 frank is a poor man k24a2.

You're so wrong with that one man.  I'm not sure where you got the idea that a K24/K20A2 is a poor mans K24A2.  A K24A2 long block is going to be less expensive than building a frankenstien motor.  You forget the cost of new/different pistons and rods, head studs, gaskets, oil pump, chain guides, having the block machined, and so on and so on.  All that little shit adds up.

From what I know, the K24A2 is a good upgrade for a simple swap that will give you a bit more reliable power.  A K24/K20A2 frankenstien is if you're building a race motor.  That's why guys like Cham are making 500+ hp on a build like that.

[BliNx197]

+1 Thats why Ima go with an a2 in the coming months after Im S/Ced! Thicker rods higher compression! 3 lobe vtec! Its the best of both worlds without the revy nearly ricey sound of a k20. Also! Tq! Cant forget the 2nd part of the Acceleration Equation! Either way you'll appreciate your car much more after you put some bolt-ons on it and figure out how it drives! Take it from everyone here! What I drive now is a completely different car from what I drove off of the lot that 1st day!

[thisaznboi88]

Tim I got the idea from http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?p=21199275

Just use the find and type in poor man

and one k20a some dude also said that.

and I got it off here also

http://www.k-series.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12264

[timot_one]

That clubrsx thread is kind of vague, and that article reposted never mentioned what block was being used.  They kinda half assed the details and it really seems like they are just taking short cuts.  In my experience, taking short cuts is a big no no, and could reduce reliability.  As I have mentioned before, stop trying to cut corners.

[thisaznboi88]

I think I will just do bolt ons. For some reason my car is faster then my friends MT accord i4. He has a lot more bolt on then I do and I see pull away from him...

He has intake, pulley, exhuast, tq dampener.

I have intake and tsx im.

[Icebox]

perhaps he just cant drive.

[timot_one]

perhaps he just cant drive.

I agree with that theory.

[thisaznboi88]

lol drives better then me. Then we switched cars and did the same thing. I ono his car is slow as fuck compared to mines.

[timot_one]

Both coupes or sedans?  Does he have a big heavy stereo?  Dead body in the trunk?  Ignores regular maintenance?

[thisaznboi88]

Both sedans. I have steely,CAI and TSX. He has 18 rims, SR headers and exhust and pulley. both cars are well kept. All car had nothing in the trunk, He is an DX i am LX

[timot_one]

The only realistic theory is that it's operator error and neither of you know how to drive a MT properly, thus the AT would perform better.

[Icebox]

be nice tim

[wai_pang2]

so I got a qoute from the place that will be doing it 555 for kpro full map tuning flat rate. 750 for installing the cams flat rate.

does that sound about right? They have to "drop" the motor so iono.

i know they are legit since I seen there cars in action and I talked to the boss at an auto meet last time and he seems to know what he is doing. So 750+555 from the same place? does that sound about right?

Dude do you want to sell me ur cams n stuff. LOL 500 bucks is such such a swt deal.

I pretty sure you don't have to drop the motor to change cams unless you are implying some internal work done to the block. Even if you are doing a head swap, you don't need to drop the motor but it will be hard on your back bending over the fenders and bumpers and reaching.