So there's still people that drive with that much camber?

So I went and put a bigger screw into the engine ground, wiped the dielectric grease off of everything, and checked my connections in the back of the fuse box. It started right up. I'll let you guys ponder what it could have been.

The new battery is in. I went into auto zone to get a new battery. Any other grounds I should check than the ones I had already mentioned?

My car was officially mine a month ago, right after I finished school!

So I went into AutoZone to do change up my battery. Swapped it, and the car was simply dead. There are no lights, no ignition, if i turn the key no noises are made none of the dashboard lights up, nothing. The battery is brand new and has 12.5V. I checked the battery and ignition fuses along with the rest of the fuses. I checked the battery ground, engine ground and connections to the positive battery terminal, everything is ok.

This is where it gets bizarre. If I disconnect everything and leave it disconnected for around 30-40 minutes, sometimes I will have ignition again and all the lights on the dash will function, when I try to actually start the car, it clicks once and then everything dies again. If I leave the battery connected the car just stays dead indefinitely. I had a mechanic check it out before he closed down and he has no idea thus far, went through and checked most of the connections. I have a sound system, but for trying to get the car to start I completely disconnected anything extra.

On top of this, sometimes when I drive, the voltage sometimes goes down below 12V and the dash flickers, all the gauges go down to zero and comes right back up and I can keep on driving, but there is no consistency, sometimes it happens when I brake, sometimes on acceleration, sometimes just while driving at 30mph or 50mph. There doesn't seem to be a pattern of any sorts.

This happened before in the winter time when i was still in Chicago and it was -20 degrees outside, so I was convinced it was the cold. The same thing happened as it did today, but the car decided to just startup again after a few hours and it hasn't happened again until now. Now I am in the bay area in California, so weather doesn't seem like it would be an issue.

My car will be getting a thorough looking through on Tuesday, but until then does anyone have any ideas at all?

And just for fun, here it is being towed:

Went from this

to this last week

Lady was driving to work and was in a hurry and hit me on the side in a parking lot.

Just did the install, really easy and only took 1.5 hours.

You're still alive?

It's definitely super easy to do though.

Somewhat, 1 more year of school and work. I had the damn thing sitting in my apartment for 6 months before I found time to install it. Bought it for 30 bucks off of k20.org

Just did the install, really easy and only took 1.5 hours.

I let my friend use my jack stand to jack up his M3, and the jackstand got bent. I have been trying to find where to buy an OEM jack stand for his ass to replace, besides the one currently on ebay for 60 bucks, however I can't seem to find it on any dealer website? Any idea what I should be looking for, or what the part number may be to it?

So I bout a TSX intake manifold recently. After getting it I could see that it was stored somewhere for a while and there is spiderwebs and other residue inside of it. How do I clean it properly?

Here's a pic

I think for the first time ever I made my usual trip from Chicago down to Champaign on cruise control going exactly 65 the whole way down, with A/C on. I ended up getting 40.1 mpg using only a quarter tank, where usually I get around 22 while driving like a mad man. Maybe it's time to slow down...

I've seen different methods from different sources on how to bed in brakes properly. It seems that it is actually manufacturer dependent.

Straight from Tire Rack:

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

Would I need any hub centric rings?

Im considering picking up this:

"A complete set of Mitsubishi Evolution (Evo) 8 Enkei wheels for sale with 235-45 R17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 star spec tires. "

For around 500. The tires have 70% tread and the wheels are 8 inches wide with 38+mm offset. I wouldn't have any issues would I?

EDIT: made it more clear